alkattan

Subwoofer

Hi all,
Can I replace my Subwoofer with a new 10” subwoofer on my GS430?

Also I will post some photos for my GS430 after installing my new 18” wheels and lowering it with ltune. I am taking a brake now; I have one wheel left to install.


Front 18” 8.0 ------245/40
Rear 18” 9.5 ------275/35

alkattan

bitkahuna

iTrader: (20)

You should prob. ask in Electronics section.

Do you have ML or Pioneer audio?

I believe the Pioneer woofer at least is a 2ohm unit, which is unusual. Certainly you can replace it, but do you plan to add more amplification too?

kodai

yes you can. I did it with a B/A 10 inch. sounds great. cool thing is that you do not need to worry about a hugh box taking up your trunk. i have an enclosure around my sub. it would also look great. i will post some pic's on monday.

kodai

bitkahuna

iTrader: (20)

Is B/A Boston Acoustics? Also, I believe the stock subwoofer is 2ohm, is the B/A one? Was it just unscrew old one and screw in the new one?? Did you add any additional amplification? How does it sound different from the stock one? Do you have Pioneer ('premium'), Nak, or ML stereo?

Inquiring minds want to know ;-)

Percy

It's a single coil, very high compliance sub. Wierd impedance of 2 ohms, but not as bad as say a Bose system with 1 ohm speakers. The only aftermarket that was wierd enough to use unusual impedance was Sony's XESZ50 system midwoofers. They were at 1 ohm but covered a range of 40 to 4k hz. Couldn't use them in most amps due to their wierd resistance but Sony had their special amps for this. Speakers were called the XESM50 if I remember correctly. Now if they took Dynaudio's approach of using aluminum voice coils, they would have made it even lighter. Still, Sony's speakers for the XES didn't sound nearly as good as a comparable Diamond HEX, ADS325im/is, Focal or Dynaudio.

The only dual voice coil that I'm aware of for subs are the ones used in the ML system for the LS430.

Percy

alkattan

will I have a MTX 1000 watts. Now how can I open the GS subwoofer IE how can I reach it and remove it?

alkattan

Percy

You'll have to do some searching on the past threads. I wrote up a VERY long and detailed procedure of how to do this. In short, you have to remove the rear seat, seatback, trim areas and deck.

Percy

lexus808

yeah I recall percy wrote an excellent post about how to do it a while back. Too bad the search engine here is really bad. Or maybe I'm not smart enough to get it to search properly. It pulls up tons and tons of hits.... ah well...

I think any answers made by percy or gene should automatically get archived into the FAQ. Saves us from searching all day long...

captclam

I just pulled my back deck apart to work on putting in new speaks and sub... (93' stock pioneer system on SC400). I found when I put in the new Sub, NOTHING!! I thing it is because the old one was 1 Ohm... I though my MTX wasn't working... then remembered Ohms Law which states...

"When it is 10 pm and you have put your new MTX sub in, and slathered every possible spot with silicone because the new 10" sub is too wide to sit all the way down in the opening, you will find that the new 4 Ohm sub does not even move a bit as a result of not enough current to move it because the old one was stamped 1 Ohm. Thusly, after cracking the edges of the back deck from being too much of an idiot to figure out how to get the side panels off after removing the back seats and forcing the deck cover out, you will find that you are completely SCREWED!!"

I think Ohm's law also says something about the deck cover not fitting back on because the woofer is jammed crooked into the opening because the opening was not large enough to fit the new 10" sub. Also, it goes into all the vibrations that will be flapping about in the back windows area if you ever do actually figure out how to wire a punch 45 amp in as an emergency half-*** solution for not having the new sub move at all because it is under powered!!

So much for Mr. Ohm!! (by the way, yes, I did jumper one of the speakers to the sub, and the sub does work... at least on the left and right channels... I only have a digital mulitester which does not help with testing the subwoofer speaker feed. I do get an ever so slight crackle upon initial contact when plugging it in. (and the old one still works... though I had to rip it apart (so I thought) to get the mounting bracket off it)

So, I have the pinouts for the changer and rear speaker amp... how about some information on the sub amp which I believe is affixed to the underside of the back deck under the back window... is that what that thing on the left side is?? If I unplug the (approx) 10 pin connector from it nothing happens...

Is there an input to that little amp I can use as an RCA-like low level input into the Punch 45 amp?? Or, should I take what was the old subwoofer speaker wires and run it into the speaker wire inputs of the amp?? Will that even work if it is 1 Ohm??

One last note,

"AAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHGGGGGGGGGGGGGG!!!!"

Bad Lexus BAD LEXUS!!

P.S My electronic forum search on "subwoofer AND amp" came up with the usual 3900+ matches... I don't think the search works correctly...:eek: :eek: :eek:

captclam

At 4:30 this morning I finished getting the interior back together. Spent 2 hours trying to find a way through the firewall with 8 gauge wire!! Found it just above the footrest deep in the drivers well next to the fuse block. There is a black rubber circle with a yellow plastic coduit running through it and a cable. If you really work it hard you can get it through and go through the fender and into a nice opening by the hood strut. Then you can run it right next to all the other wires past the engine fuses and right to the battery.

Sub is resting firmly on the gas tank... makes me pretty hinky... think it could cause the car to explode??

Kirk

Any idea what that box is next to the passenger side speaker??

Also, are the factory speakers worth anything to anyone??

Also, also, the speakers are stamped 4 Ohms!! Can you believe that??