sc4009688

I just bought a Dual 12" Dual 4-Ohm Single-Voice-Coil Subwoofers with Enclosure from best buy:
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/olspage.jsp?skuId=7044085&type=product&productCategoryId=pcmcat54900050004&id=1099396976115

with a DUAL 460 WATT AMP. i want to still keep my stock amp and sub. what kind of wires do i need that are cheap. can i just buy the 500 WATT amp hook up wiring from walmart and what else would i need and what do i hook the amp and sub to. im clueless about this whole thing. can i buy a seperate battery and run it from that? will having 2 amps and 3 subs which i will have, drain my battery?

kietlander

where u located in NJ?

mkorsu

Plus, I don;t recommend buying anything stereo related from Wal-Mart!

You are going to run into conflicts here with the stock sub and additional subs trying to run together.

First, your stock sub is free-air, meaning it uses the trunk space as its enclosure. Putting an enclosed setup in the trunk will negate the output of the free-air. Searching through this site would also reveal that it is highly recommended to remove the stock sub in order to vent the sound from the trunk into the cabin of the car.

Now, if you attempt to run this new sub box and the stock sub, you would need to splice inot the output signal for the stock sub. Most likely, this will decrease the response of all subs. You would also need to wire the new amp inline, while still keeping outputs going to stock amp.....damn, I'm even confusing myself!!

re-evaluate what you are doing. Your best bet at this point, is to remove the stock sub and sub amp, replace ing those with the new subs and a new amp dedicated for the sub. Now, if you have the permium sound setup (Pioneer), you have 2 amps. The non-sub amp would be replaced with a 4-channel amp if you wanted more from those speakers, but I also don't recommend doing that without upgrading the speakers as well.

If you have the Nakamichi system, then you will definately need another amp since you are disconnecting the sub amp.

Man, I'm sure I left stuff out of here!


**EDIT** I just checked your link for the subs and enclosure you bought.

OPTION 3 - Return everything you bought and purchase a quality 10" free-air replacement. Cheap subs will give you cheap sound. For the $150 spent on that, a quality free-air 10" can be purchased and would most likely perform better than those from Best Buy. If an enclosed setup is the goal, look for better quality stuff. Even Rockford/Fosgate (which is middle of the road stuff right now, but still very decent) can be purchased relatively inexpensively.

ArmyofOne

JL Audio, clarion, alpine, the list is endless....

Abear

iTrader: (1)

I think your wrong about buying from walmart, that is where I got my amp wire kit, $20 bucks was cheap and it works great. I've had it in the car for 2 years and no problems. But I'm not here to call you out, just letting you know walmart isnt all bad.

As far as your option 3, you are right, for the price you paid for that box and those subs, you can probably find a good free-air(or even a regular sub, and put it in a box). I have 1 10" Lanzar sub, 1400 watts max, Daul Voice-coil, 700 RMS. I have a Lanzar 2000 watt max mono amp(don't let the rating fool you, I really doubt the amp will ever see 2000 watts, but it is good enough for just under 200 bucks) Anyway, my system sounds great, and I know that if I bought a 12" sub, and a nicer box, it would be too damn loud. Just return what you bought from bestbuy and save a little more and get something nice, I wish I had done that from the beginning, I've had over 3 systems in my car, and I am just now getting to sound good

Good luck,
Jacob

mkorsu

Thanks Jacob. Good to know!

My thoughts were just along the lines of reliability and build quality. Plus I'm a bit biased from being involved in the competition scene back in the early 90's.

Your Lanzar stuff was very high end and expensive back when I was involved!!! Top-Notch.


Oh, and as for the quote under your sig............ya gotta, ya gotta, ya gotta, ya gotta, ssswwwwiiiiinnnnggggg bbbbaaattttttttteeeeerrrrr!!!

ArmyofOne

apparently you havent heard sound from a system like mine...compiled of kenwood, JL Audio, Alpine, or Calrion...Because not much at walmart compares. they do have good deals on Pioneer speakers though.

sc4009688

im in hackettstown, New Jersey. I am probably going to buy the wiring kit from wal-mart for $20 and have best buy install everything for $100 beacause they give a lifetime gaurantee. so if anything messes up they replace it for free. and if i dont like it i have 30 days to bring it back or exchange it free.

does this use a lot of battery power? can i buy a seperate battery and mount it in the trunk and use that to power the amp?

mkorsu

Ok, you need to go back and reread the posts people made.

1. No, you cannot put another battery in the trunk to power the additional sub. What will recharge the battery???? It would be dead inside a day.
**EDIT** Let me rephrase this. Actually you can install a second battery and it can be mounted in the trunk, but then you are looking at a deep cycle marine battery (Yellow top preferred, with a secondary charging system installed - will be difficult to run on the stock SC alternator, so to go this route, also add in the cost of a high output alternator for the SC, $300-$400+ for the alt. alone, prob. another couple hundred for charging system install)

2. As I said, running a sealed box sub setup in conjunction with the stock sub also will not work. The sound waves from each seperate piece of equipment will be working against each other, effectively destroying the output.

3. Next, what is your solution to the line out dilemma? You have output signals coming to the back of the car where you propose to splice in another amp and sub? It doesn't work that way. Sure, sound will come out of the speakers, but what you are going to hear will be worse than a 1975 Spearco HU with 1969 Audiovox speakers!

Come on bro, think things out before rushing into it! And it doesn't need to be expensive. My total system cost is roughly $400.

1. Replacement Nakamichi amp - $150
2. JL Audio 10" IB4 - $150
3. 2 MB Quart 6.5" rear deck lid speakers $60
4. 2 MB Quart 4" door speakers $40

Still runs on stock HU. Theiving fools look in the car and keep walking. Looks stock as hell. Sounds VERY far from stock. Took a bit of DIY work to fit the 10" sub, 6.5" decks, & 4" doors, but it is stealth and sounds EXCELLENT. The key here was a game plan. Slow down and think about what you are doing. We are a good community here and we are pretty much all willing to lend a hand so take some of these suggestions to heart and re-evaluate this system.

mkorsu

I'm not super far from there. I am down 206 in the Somerville area, Middlesex to be exact. We should meet up sometime and take a look at what you have and try to plan something out.


Plus, kietlander's gotta get his butt up here since we keep talking meet and never have one!!

Maybe now is the perfect excuse for the South Jersey pizza meet!!!

Abear

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, my cousin has a 12" kicker L7 solobaric with a JL 1000/1 amp. I have to say his system sounds pretty nice, and yes its louder than mine. But he also has a Tahoe with nice ported box for his sub, and I have a GS300 with a 10" hole to let bass into the cab. I have heard many different systems in many different cars, and as far as sound goes I am VERY happy with mine. For 1 10 it sounds pretty damn good. And I didnt buy the sub at walmart, or the amp, I was only referring to the amp wiring kit. The 1000 watt wiring kit they have is pretty good. I only changed the inline fuse holder just because I lost the plastic piece covering the fuse. I love Clarion subs, they sound amazing, but seeing as I wasnt looking to spend alot of money on a sub, I picked mine up for around 65 bucks. Not to bad for a 1400 watt 10. Thanks for letting me know how your systems sounds, maybe if your in Houston one day, you can stop by and let me hear your Fords system.

Jacob

ArmyofOne

My bad, i thought you were referring to the whole setup.

Its likely the ford will be in houston sometime next year, i am deployng and my grandmother has 2 acres in splendora(where it will be storedwhen i deploy) 35 miles north of the 610 interchange with TX59. i will be glad to let you have a listen.

600 watts going to a single JL 10W2...its nice for my little car, i dont need much. crystal clear too.

Im not knocking your setup per se, but the best buy brands (Dual is jensens ***** brand, if you will pardon the expression) just didnt sound good the last time i heard it. but i heard it in an explorer that had a piecemeal system too...mediocre at best.

I thougth you were referring to lightning audio. which is like dual in that they are Rockford Fosgates ***** brand. LOL. (yes rockford makes them, but they are horrible).

Abear

iTrader: (1)

LOL, nah man Dual is crap..haha. I used to have 2 Jensen 12s from when jensen was good, lol. I sold those to some punk kid that I heard blew em from bein stupid, he ran em at 2 ohms.....each. Anyway, yeah, I know your system sounds pretty good, I wasnt tryin to come off as an *** or anything, I was just stating that walmart is ok for the people like me that dont want to buy the 100 dollar wiring kit from best buy haha. Yeah man, when you come to Houston hit me up 281-782-4160, and if I'm not workin I'll check out your system, it cant sound bad right?! haha!
-Jacob

mkorsu

I don't think Jensen was ever actually "good". Better than now maybe, but not actually good.

Just so we don't spread misinformation.......speakers aren't run at 2 ohms. A 4 ohm speaker will always be a 4 ohm speaker. Certain wiring configurations can show a different load to an amplifier, causing the amp to run at 2 ohms, effectively increasing power output. ie, 2 4-ohm speakers wired in series will show the amp an 8ohm load.


Not calling you out either, just raising some points.

kietlander

some speakers are 2 ohm though. i am ggetting components that are 2 ohm