help with ohms and watts when wiring system...
#1
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help with ohms and watts when wiring system...
sup all i've been tyring to figure out all this stuff and im pretty lost.... so here it goes:
i have two subs both rated at 1000wats rms, dvc, 6ohm load
if i wire them like so i will bring down the load to 1.5 ohm
i could then wire it to an 1ohm mono amp...correct?
i have an amp pushing 1600x1 1ohm... is that too much or not enough? i dont know how to add up the watts on the sub when i wire it this way
any help would be awesome
i have two subs both rated at 1000wats rms, dvc, 6ohm load
if i wire them like so i will bring down the load to 1.5 ohm
i could then wire it to an 1ohm mono amp...correct?
i have an amp pushing 1600x1 1ohm... is that too much or not enough? i dont know how to add up the watts on the sub when i wire it this way
any help would be awesome
#2
yes u will need a 1 ohm stable amp. that amp might not be enough... get a higher power amp. i say an amp with 2300watts give or take 100. 2400 would be prefect. u have to put into consideration that an amp will make 2400watts rms @ 1ohm. but ur running 1.5 ohms. u have to make up for it. due to the fact that u wont make all of the 2400.
Last edited by kietlander; 09-30-05 at 05:29 PM.
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What subs, amp, box do you have?
The RMS on the sub is not really what is needed. Unless you're playing full volume test tones, your subs are never constanting getting the power you think it's getting. The RMS rating on subs is just a rating of how much power (thermally) the coil may take for a period of time.
In fact, the power needed to drive a sub can be offset with a use of a more efficient box design. If you have a sealed box, usually you can get a bigger box to make the whole setup more efficient. You'll probably need more power only if the box you have is smaller than what you need.
If your current amp is able to make each sub reach full excursion, there is no need for more power. More power will not benefit and will be wasted off as heat, or can possible damage the sub due to over-excurting. If your subs are not able to reach full excursion, either get a bigger box or add more power (each has their pros and cons)
good luck
The RMS on the sub is not really what is needed. Unless you're playing full volume test tones, your subs are never constanting getting the power you think it's getting. The RMS rating on subs is just a rating of how much power (thermally) the coil may take for a period of time.
In fact, the power needed to drive a sub can be offset with a use of a more efficient box design. If you have a sealed box, usually you can get a bigger box to make the whole setup more efficient. You'll probably need more power only if the box you have is smaller than what you need.
If your current amp is able to make each sub reach full excursion, there is no need for more power. More power will not benefit and will be wasted off as heat, or can possible damage the sub due to over-excurting. If your subs are not able to reach full excursion, either get a bigger box or add more power (each has their pros and cons)
good luck
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well the box it originally came in is really small 1.08^3 sq/ft per sub
i think im going to build a box with atleast 1.25^3 sq/ft and just add polyfill... the manual says i need from .75-1.5^3/ft
1.25^3/ft would be about 15inches LxWxH per sub....
hey what if i was to not wire them together but run them at 3ohms each....the amp im running is a high current amp 2 channels
here are the specs on the amp:
200 watts x 2 @ 4 ohms stereo & 400 watts x 2 @ 2 ohms stereo & 600 watts x 2 @ 1 ohm stereo & 1600 watts x 1 @ 1 ohms mono
EDIT:
forgot to ask what would be the best way to setup my system? and i really do not want to buy any more subs or amps if possible
i think im going to build a box with atleast 1.25^3 sq/ft and just add polyfill... the manual says i need from .75-1.5^3/ft
1.25^3/ft would be about 15inches LxWxH per sub....
hey what if i was to not wire them together but run them at 3ohms each....the amp im running is a high current amp 2 channels
here are the specs on the amp:
200 watts x 2 @ 4 ohms stereo & 400 watts x 2 @ 2 ohms stereo & 600 watts x 2 @ 1 ohm stereo & 1600 watts x 1 @ 1 ohms mono
EDIT:
forgot to ask what would be the best way to setup my system? and i really do not want to buy any more subs or amps if possible
Last edited by joshoowa; 10-01-05 at 05:42 PM.
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i have an:
audiobahn A2200HCX amplifier
200 watts x 2 @ 4 ohms stereo & 400 watts x 2 @ 2 ohms stereo & 600 watts x 2 @ 1 ohm stereo & 1600 watts x 1 @ 1 ohms mono & Dimensions: 3.5"(H) x 12"(W) x 24"(D) , High Current Circuitry & PWM MOSFET Power Supply & Double Sided Glass Epoxy Circuit Board & S/N Ratio: >100dB & Frequency Response: 10Hz 40KHz (+/- 1dB) & Remote Bass Control With Blue Backlight ***** & Variable 24dB High-pass Crossover: 90Hz 750Hz & Variable 24dB Lo-pass Crossover: 30Hz 120Hz & Variable Subsonic Filter: 20Hz to 45Hz & Variable Bass Boost: 0 18dB & Variable Bass Boost Frequency: 40Hz 100Hz & RCA Throughput Connections 4-way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Short Circuit, Overload, and DC Offset & Dual Cooling Fans & VU Meters Indicating Output Response & Cobalt Blue Illumination & High Gloss 14K Gold and Chrome Plated Finish & Nickel Plated Block Terminals
audiobahn A2200HCX amplifier
200 watts x 2 @ 4 ohms stereo & 400 watts x 2 @ 2 ohms stereo & 600 watts x 2 @ 1 ohm stereo & 1600 watts x 1 @ 1 ohms mono & Dimensions: 3.5"(H) x 12"(W) x 24"(D) , High Current Circuitry & PWM MOSFET Power Supply & Double Sided Glass Epoxy Circuit Board & S/N Ratio: >100dB & Frequency Response: 10Hz 40KHz (+/- 1dB) & Remote Bass Control With Blue Backlight ***** & Variable 24dB High-pass Crossover: 90Hz 750Hz & Variable 24dB Lo-pass Crossover: 30Hz 120Hz & Variable Subsonic Filter: 20Hz to 45Hz & Variable Bass Boost: 0 18dB & Variable Bass Boost Frequency: 40Hz 100Hz & RCA Throughput Connections 4-way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Short Circuit, Overload, and DC Offset & Dual Cooling Fans & VU Meters Indicating Output Response & Cobalt Blue Illumination & High Gloss 14K Gold and Chrome Plated Finish & Nickel Plated Block Terminals
#9
Originally Posted by joshoowa
i have an:
audiobahn A2200HCX amplifier
200 watts x 2 @ 4 ohms stereo & 400 watts x 2 @ 2 ohms stereo & 600 watts x 2 @ 1 ohm stereo & 1600 watts x 1 @ 1 ohms mono & Dimensions: 3.5"(H) x 12"(W) x 24"(D) , High Current Circuitry & PWM MOSFET Power Supply & Double Sided Glass Epoxy Circuit Board & S/N Ratio: >100dB & Frequency Response: 10Hz 40KHz (+/- 1dB) & Remote Bass Control With Blue Backlight ***** & Variable 24dB High-pass Crossover: 90Hz 750Hz & Variable 24dB Lo-pass Crossover: 30Hz 120Hz & Variable Subsonic Filter: 20Hz to 45Hz & Variable Bass Boost: 0 18dB & Variable Bass Boost Frequency: 40Hz 100Hz & RCA Throughput Connections 4-way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Short Circuit, Overload, and DC Offset & Dual Cooling Fans & VU Meters Indicating Output Response & Cobalt Blue Illumination & High Gloss 14K Gold and Chrome Plated Finish & Nickel Plated Block Terminals
audiobahn A2200HCX amplifier
200 watts x 2 @ 4 ohms stereo & 400 watts x 2 @ 2 ohms stereo & 600 watts x 2 @ 1 ohm stereo & 1600 watts x 1 @ 1 ohms mono & Dimensions: 3.5"(H) x 12"(W) x 24"(D) , High Current Circuitry & PWM MOSFET Power Supply & Double Sided Glass Epoxy Circuit Board & S/N Ratio: >100dB & Frequency Response: 10Hz 40KHz (+/- 1dB) & Remote Bass Control With Blue Backlight ***** & Variable 24dB High-pass Crossover: 90Hz 750Hz & Variable 24dB Lo-pass Crossover: 30Hz 120Hz & Variable Subsonic Filter: 20Hz to 45Hz & Variable Bass Boost: 0 18dB & Variable Bass Boost Frequency: 40Hz 100Hz & RCA Throughput Connections 4-way Protection Circuitry: Thermal, Short Circuit, Overload, and DC Offset & Dual Cooling Fans & VU Meters Indicating Output Response & Cobalt Blue Illumination & High Gloss 14K Gold and Chrome Plated Finish & Nickel Plated Block Terminals
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