TwentyTen

Hey CL - I have an intermittent but serious problem. After I removed everything from the trunk to add Dynamat I started getting an error with my amp. It may have been there before but I just notiecd it now. I have two of the exact same amps, one powers the cabinn speakers and one powers the subs. The one that powers the subs is the one with the problem.

The model is a Kicker KX-600.4. The way these are designed is like two amps in one chassis. There are four channels and two crossovers. It delivers 75 watts to 4 channels @ 4 ohms or you can bridge 2 channels into 1 and you get 300watts x2 @ 4 ohms. This is how I am running the subs ( Polk MOMO MM12 (500watts each)).

When I reconnected everything (checked, double checked connections) the protection light on the amp keeps coming on-resets itself, then comes on again. I disconnected the remote turn on to that amp and everything was fine again. Connected the remoe turn onagain the next day and everything worked as normal. I pushed the subs a little for about 2 minutes and ZAPP! No amp! Went back to the trunk and PROTECTION MODE AGAIN! Disconnected RTO, reconnnected RTO and it worked. I gradually turned up the volume on the head unit and the battery died. Jump started the battery, turned ont he amps - battery died AGAIN!!!! WTF?!?!?!?!

Could someone let me know what happened? ANY ideas would help. I don't want this amp to be trash! I think it started when I got the new subs (BEEFY). I know they are underpowered by 200 watts but they sound good and well...would that affect the amp?

toyota_gs400

It kind of sounds like your remote turn on wire is constantly on, so your amp is overheating cause it's always on. Make sure your power to your amp is connected to the right place just to be sure. When the head unit is off, measure the remote turn on wire to see if there's voltage on it and check again when the car is also off. If there's voltage there, you could have somehow pinched the wire with power. Another thing could be it's in a hot place with the new matting down, maybe it's not getting the ventalation it was getting before. Good luck.

DPGS430

It could also be going into protection because of extreme low voltage. If your battery is dieing then that could be the culprit also. If your not already running a Yellow Top Optima Battery, it might be time to get one.

Jim

TwentyTen

Thanks guys, I'm looking at an Optima YEllow Top right now.

I checked the remote turn on leads, not with a voltimeter but by checking the amp lights. When there is no power from the HU, the amps are off. So I think it's due to low voltage. I was also looking at XSTATIC batcaps (www.batcap.net) anyone have experience with these? IT's supposed to deliver 100 farads for the price of a 3 farad cap.

I'll keep you posted.

engin_ear

iTrader: (1)

Hope you've checked all of your ground connections thoroughly, especially the amp ground to the body (if used). The lack of a solid ground reference could cause your problems as well.

kaosmoon

One thing to take serious note of is the things these guys already pointed out.

Your ground is a big one. When you added your dynamat did you cover the location that your ground was on?

Essentially someone mentioned voltage. This can be a big one. Say your amp turns on fine, if the ground was moved, or changed at all it's possible it's no longer 'solid' so to speak where your amp can get enough to get it to turn on and work for a while but it eventually turns on and off due to the fact that it's being choked (literally) of it's power.

I'd say check your ground. Start there. Make sure your ground is bolted to your chassis to the BARE metal of the vehicle and the surface area there is sanded to expose the metal. No paint or dynamat in between the connection. This is a important one.

If it's not that let us know and I'm sure someone can continue to troubleshoot but I'd start there. We see a lot of cars where this is the issue (and it's been the issue in my own more than once).

good luck with it.

Ben