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Speaker Install - "How-To" with TONS of pics!! SC3/400

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Old 03-27-06, 07:27 PM   #61
SCSpeed
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marek0rn
Yes, definately a great post!

Just a quick question, if someone needed replacement screws or bolts to put the door panel back on do you think that HomeDepot should sell ones that fit? Or should they go to the dealer?
You can get 10 screws that will work on your door panel at a hardware store while you can only get 1 screw at a Lexus dealer. Home Depot might not have enough selections for you. A concentrated hardware store is a better choice.
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Old 04-18-06, 02:10 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by sxylxy
Anyone know top and bottom mounting depth for the front speakers..?
Its crazy deep. Like at least 3". I took apart my door panel and speaker boxes today with a little help from this thread. I will be using 1/4" ABS plastic as my speaker baffle because its strong, not as brittle as the 1/4" MDF and it will be impervious to water or moisture.

I will be using the Kicker SS65 components which are their top of the line speakers. The tweeter is massive and I just know its not going to fit in the factory location - this is ok because there is a point-source mounting option for these speakers so it'll go smack dab in the middle of the woofer. I will be running two sets of 14 ga. speaker wire through the factory door boot (*crosses fingers*). The crossover will be stored on display in the trunk as they are friggin' huge !

I will try to post some pictures as I go. The big day is tomorrow.
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Old 04-18-06, 02:18 AM   #63
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marek0rn/SCSpeed - Try Pep Boys, AutoZone, or something like that. They have all kinds of stuff.

Kratos - Hell yeah, DEFINATELY take some picturess, I can't wait to see it!!!
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Old 04-19-06, 01:53 AM   #64
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Here's my update !

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/show...06#post1846006

Thanks to RSTSpeed for getting the ball rolling on this project!
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Old 05-04-06, 07:43 AM   #65
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Hey guys I didnt think I needed to start a whole new thread for this question but what I would like to do is replace the stock 10" sub with an aftermarket 10" and mount it in the stock location. I know there WERE some subs available that allowed for this but this was a few years back and even then they were raely available. Putting a box in the truck is out of the question. I have barely enough room as it is so replacing the stock sub is my only option. Are there any subs out there anymore that I can buy and just drop in without modifying anything? I've been looking at a few sites but havent really seen much.

Also stereo install is not my thing at all and have no clue when it comes to installing or upgrading so my other question is after I install the sub would an amp upgrade be necessary. Like I said I have no clue about stereo installations so I have no idea. If so how would I go about upgrading the amp with the new sub?

Thanks
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Old 05-04-06, 11:20 AM   #66
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The sub you need is a free-air sub. Free-air's don't need a box behind them to operate properly. They're out there, but it's much harder to find a good one; generally, the sound quality and deep bass sound just is not the same as with a regular sub.
Yes, you would mostly likely need to get a new amp, it would sound much better that way even if the extra power isn't necessarily required.

Have you looked at somthing like a Bazooka tube? They're small & compact, come with a built in amp, and you could mount it right next to the CD changer.

Here's a link, the Alpine L.A.T. subs on the 2nd page would probably sound bad-***:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-rXh4VSw...?g=51000&avf=N
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Old 05-04-06, 12:55 PM   #67
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Jimmit,
Most of the aftermarket 10" subs are not exactly the same size as the stock 10" sub. So they'll need some modifications such as making a 5/8" MDF or 1/4" MDF (I don't recommend 1/4") template on the existing mouting bracket/body frame. Make sure you seal the mounting's surroundings. The aftermarket 10" subs are usually slightly larger than the stock sub. However, you can use aftermarket 8" sub, which is smaller and easier for you to mount. Although it's generally the idea that the 10" sounds louder than the 8", that's not always true. A high quality 8" sub can sound the same or even better than many single 10" sub. I have been in the stereo industry for more than 10 years (car & high-end home audio) so I know it. A 8" sub from Cerwin Vega, Kicker, Infinity...etc.(you'll have to search) sounds really loud and gives high-end bass. Unless you're willing to sacrifice the trunk's room and competite in sound for shows...etc, then you might need 10", 12", or even 15" subs. Otherwise, if you set it up correctly, you'll be amazed with 8" sub(s).

To make a template, search on this forum for how to make them. There're several instructions and pics on how to make templates on the door's speakers or rear panel speakers. The concept and logic are the same when you apply that for the sub's template.

You can replace the sub only or also with an aftermarket amp to enhance your stereo system. As someone mentioned above, a free-air sub is needed in stock location. Or you can use a small but hi-quality sub box in the trunk. It should fit perfectly while still can give enough room for other things. I built my own box to fit in the trunk. Anyway, I'm currently using a twin 8" Infinity subs with a Kicker amp, a Mitsubishi amp for 4 tweeters, stock front speakers, and Kenwood rear speakers, and a digital Kenwood equalizer. This setup sounds really nice and loud enough to shake my hair.
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Old 05-05-06, 01:31 PM   #68
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Elemental Designs makes a decent 10" sub that is somewhat shallow (still would need a spacer though) and its a free-air design. They are relatively cheap and are awesome quality.

Anyways, back on topic. I am contemplating scrapping my 6's in the doors. I have a nice set of Alpine Type X 5.25's that would fit in the factory plasic baffle with some dremelling.The imaging would be far superior to that of the off-axis 6.5's due to the fact that it would line up much better with the factory grille and be angled slightly up towards my head. Of course I will post some pics once I get started..
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Old 06-04-06, 07:59 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSTSpeed
SOrry SxyLxy, I don't.

VinnyQH - my door panels are stock, but I'm not sure if I'm understanding your question correctly.
well if i looked at your pics correctly you have 6.5 in speakers in the door panels correct? if you do, what do your grills look like with the door panel back on, or was there enough space back there to not make a biggger hole becuase the grill is only for a 4"? does the door panel just look stock?
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Old 06-05-06, 09:54 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VinnyQH
well if i looked at your pics correctly you have 6.5 in speakers in the door panels correct? if you do, what do your grills look like with the door panel back on, or was there enough space back there to not make a biggger hole becuase the grill is only for a 4"? does the door panel just look stock?
Ooooohhh...... Yea, the door panel looks exactly like stock, because, well they ARE stock. I think the hole is large enough to let plenty of sound through, so I didn't modify it (a little scared to starting hacking at my interior pieces). But opening it up isn't a bad idea. How to do it without messing up the front og the grill would take some skill, I would think.
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Old 06-25-06, 04:33 PM   #71
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Nice guide! We managed to follow it and replaced the front speakers with stock 4"speakers and the back speakers with 6.5" speakers. Turns out the backs were only 4", we thought they were 6.5", but not a problem because we made brackets for them. One note of warning though. Careful in putting back in the big bolts holding down the front seat belts. We had a small snafu with that and they are hard to get your hands on.
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Old 06-25-06, 04:35 PM   #72
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Yes, I managed to strip the frame and the bolt when attempting to put the seat belt bold back in. Luckily, I was able to use an M12 tap to fix the frame, and silkiechic was able to find us another bolt. That was definately a hair raising moment!

Good guide though! Without it, I don't think we would have been able to do this mod.
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Old 06-25-06, 11:21 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Royicus
Yes, I managed to strip the frame and the bolt when attempting to put the seat belt bold back in. Luckily, I was able to use an M12 tap to fix the frame, and silkiechic was able to find us another bolt. That was definately a hair raising moment!

Good guide though! Without it, I don't think we would have been able to do this mod.
Which bolt, the one at the top of the pillar? I didn't have a problem with it, interesting.

Also, one question for everyone:
After I put everything back together, the back portion of the seat seems to sit higher. If you look at the car from the back, you can see the yellow foam of the seat between the deck panel and the seatback. Anyone else have this problem and/or know how to solve it?
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Old 06-26-06, 08:27 AM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RSTSpeed
Which bolt, the one at the top of the pillar? I didn't have a problem with it, interesting.

Also, one question for everyone:
After I put everything back together, the back portion of the seat seems to sit higher. If you look at the car from the back, you can see the yellow foam of the seat between the deck panel and the seatback. Anyone else have this problem and/or know how to solve it?

Yeah, it was the top one of the pillar.

As for your seat, maybe you didn't get all the clips in the right places? There are three of them and with a bit of careful placement it should be able to snap back into place. If I'm thinking of the right seat back, didn't you also have to put the three screws in the bottom back in? I guess they are large rings but they should bolt in pretty near the seat. Mine looks like I never took it apart.
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Old 06-26-06, 03:08 PM   #75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by silkiechic
As for your seat, maybe you didn't get all the clips in the right places? There are three of them and with a bit of careful placement it should be able to snap back into place. If I'm thinking of the right seat back, didn't you also have to put the three screws in the bottom back in? I guess they are large rings but they should bolt in pretty near the seat. Mine looks like I never took it apart.
Yea, I'm 99% sure I did everything right... so I'm stumped as to what is different.
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