Loe

Hello all, thought I would share some information from the TIS. These are stereo to amp speaker inputs (not output) and shows ohm & watt values:

Loe

The wiring diagram to the amp

jbkhat303

This is great information. Thank you! Am i correct to assume that the lower image is for the Mark Levinson system?
Where did you find these diagrams?

Loe

Online Toyota TIS website. Yes, in the first set of pictures, the 15speaker system represents the ML sound. In the wiring diagram picture, the ML wiring (usually in addition to the standard wires) are the ones labeled #6 while the standard sound system is labeled #5.

Bass Mech

hey i noticed you live in colorado!
if your looking for some help with your system send me a pm.

specONE

iTrader: (3)

Just to add, i dont believe the Mark Levinson has ACC wire and is a Data signal ACC for Amplifier turnon from what i could see when i was looking for ACC in my own car. just in case people may scratch there head and cannot find it in ML setup

Loe

Quick update. I currently have my JBL powered subwoofer removed from the car (warranty work, I didn't want any suspicions). I never noticed how much the rear deck rattles with the OEM subwoofer (I guess my JBL unit covered up the rattling with the amount of bass it made). Knowing that the front door speakers uses the entire door as an enclosure, there is potential for some really good bass response. I disconnected the subwoofer line, tapped it into the front speaker line to see what the result would be (now they get the subwoofer curcuits)

The outcome? VERY good bass response coming out of the front door speakers, from both front and now more so from the rear seats. It's enough to make me wonder why Lexus went to great length to install a weak sounding free-air subwoofer because the bass response from the door speaker is significantly better, fuller, and more boomy. HOWEVER, I CANNOT RECOMMEND DOING THIS, because the front door speakers are technically mid-bass drivers and see mid-bass frequencies from the OEM amp/crssover, so I am probably over driving them and throwing them out of their normal Hz capacity, however, my understanding is that they are $10-$20/piece to replace, which I will gladly do if they blow.

**update** The subwoofer output is 53x1 on 2.5ohms, so my math tells me that unhooking the line and adding two 4ohm drivers will have a total of 2ohm (in parallel), overdriving the amp channel (approx 74.2wattsx1, so it'll be approximately 37.1 watts x 2) and driver (which typically receive 35 watts/channel). Usually, amplifiers are able to handle up to 2ohm, but i'd be lying if I told you that I didnt' have speculation whether or not it's safe with the OEM amp.

JB5674

So, do you think you can replace the door speakers with better drivers on the OEM amp or is that just crazy talk. I am in the process of revamping my system. I had an alpine Type R 12 being fed by a 1000w MRx-m110 amp connected to 3 farad cap, yet I kept blowing subs. The LC2I from Audiocontrol was installed wrong ( F&*K BEST BUY) and now Im have a custom box built for 2 12" Alumapro's and removing the stock sub all together. The single 12 cranked, but I think it was a combo of phase distortion and the box the sub was in that blew the woofer. I thinking of adding another amp and redoing the doors soon. Just seeing what your thoughts are.

Loe

I'm not an expert, but I would do a dedicated amp that is better suited for mid & low-bass reproduction or an amp/speaker combo. The OEM front speaker is a 7.1" driver, and is fully capable of punching out very good bass notes (I have the bass fully up, volume cranking to 35, and it pumped out good bass notes without distortion). The speakers seem over-engineered for what the OEM crossover will allow them to have, which is unfortunate, because this was all Lexus had to do to get good-clean bass.

**update** by having the bass at +5, the mid-bass is finally pumped up to where it's satisfying, the only issue is that the low-end is also pumped up, so to get mid-bass, you will get extra low-bass along with it, which I already consider strong at +1 or +2 that the doors speakers are pumping out. I ended up reverting back to normal (change of heart, I don't want to run the risk of over-driving the AMP and speaker).

The OEM sound system really needs an addition of a dedicated aftermarket EQ/crossover for each door speaker...Not sure how to hook one up, so I'll do some reading. I think the OEM amp is sufficient for a "standard" sound system, just needs fine tuning.

Loe

The TIS is very confusing, because the labeling of "6" is supposed to be the ML system wires, and the labeling of "5" applies to the base stereo in the TIS wiring schematic. An example of this: the TIS keeps saying that PIN 24 is out TMUT wire (black), which isn't accurate when I review my harness because there isn't a wire running in/out of PIN #24, and is actually PIN #2 (but the TIS places a "6" next to this line and states that PIN #2 black TMUT is on the ML system).

The good news is that I think I found the speaker-level inputs (PIN combo 10/25 & PIN combo 11/26, pre-amp inputs) from the headunits. I bolded the description, so that may be the optimal wires to tap into when adding any type of aftermarket amplifier because it should in theory should result in a flat response with a full range circuitry. I made my own diagram in a spreadsheet, which is easier to understand when viewing the harness. The picture below applies ONLY TO THE STANDARD SOUND SYSTEM and the picture matches up to the harness (it's a 30 PIN harness, 15 PINS on each row, with 2 rows) . I will gladly make corrections if anyone else has input:

Fingers007

Loe, thanks for all the guidance. How did you route the wires through the back seat and into the trunk? Which factory amp wires did you finally tap into? I'm thinking of tapping into the subwoofer output wires instead of the speaker level input wires. I think that if I tap into the subwoofer output wires that I could still maintain the benefit of the TMUT signal.

Loe

I left it tapped into the subwoofer line. My only issue with this is that it lacks proper midbass notes. Good point on the TMUT line; I should experiment to see if this feature still functions using the speaker-level input lines. I would imagine it mutes the amp as well as pauses the CD player, but who knows?

My wires are routed through the firewall, into the door sill trim, up under the rear seats and under neath the trunk trims.

Fingers007

Thanks Loe. I finally lifted my rear seats after a bit of struggle. Did you T-tap into the OEM amp wiring harness? If so, do you know the gauge of the wires in the harness?

Loe

I used wire tap connectors (not really T-taps). IIRC the gauge is 18 (but not 100%).

I also noticed something today. I have my remote connected into the ECU-ACC fuse: the remote turn on signal to the amp will only be triggered if the headlight stalk is on auto, parking, or "ON," but the remote signal will shut off (and consequently to my LC2i & amp) if you put the headlight stalk on "DRL-OFF." Let me know if you (or anyone else) come across this as well, if so, then at least we have a "kill" switch if needed.

Fingers007

Loe, Hey, I tapped into pin 1 on the OEM amp to power my LC2 and to act as the remote wire for my LC2 and sub amp. But now the LC2 and sub amp are always on, even when the car is off. I have to physically pull the remote wire from the LC2 to have everything turn off. Do you think I should have tapped into pin 16? Thanks!!!

EDIT: From your wiring diagram, tapping into pin 16 should also cause the system to always be on. Do you know if there is a pin that acts like the ECU-ACC pin for the ML amp?