Oil changing
11-11-13, 07:31 AM
#16
Lexus Test Driver
that's what the oil filter is for!
AND FWIW there is always a little metal in your oil all the time.
also the oil in your car is a special break in oil, you need to leave it in there just like the manufacturer said to.
trust me, lexus knows whats best for the car, if you change it you'll do more harm than good, the rings need to seat. changing to a high performance oil this early won't help that process happen.
11-11-13, 07:40 AM
#17
every time i read one of these posts i just shake my head and laugh!
that's what the oil filter is for!
AND FWIW there is always a little metal in your oil all the time.
also the oil in your car is a special break in oil, you need to leave it in there just like the manufacturer said to.
trust me, lexus knows whats best for the car, if you change it you'll do more harm than good, the rings need to seat. changing to a high performance oil this early won't help that process happen.
that's what the oil filter is for!
AND FWIW there is always a little metal in your oil all the time.
also the oil in your car is a special break in oil, you need to leave it in there just like the manufacturer said to.
trust me, lexus knows whats best for the car, if you change it you'll do more harm than good, the rings need to seat. changing to a high performance oil this early won't help that process happen.
11-11-13, 07:44 AM
#18
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every time i read one of these posts i just shake my head and laugh!
that's what the oil filter is for!
AND FWIW there is always a little metal in your oil all the time.
also the oil in your car is a special break in oil, you need to leave it in there just like the manufacturer said to.
trust me, lexus knows whats best for the car, if you change it you'll do more harm than good, the rings need to seat. changing to a high performance oil this early won't help that process happen.
that's what the oil filter is for!
AND FWIW there is always a little metal in your oil all the time.
also the oil in your car is a special break in oil, you need to leave it in there just like the manufacturer said to.
trust me, lexus knows whats best for the car, if you change it you'll do more harm than good, the rings need to seat. changing to a high performance oil this early won't help that process happen.
11-11-13, 09:22 AM
#20
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I think it's just something that Lexus offers for all new vehicle sales. You should be able to just email or call your sales guy to confirm. I didn't get anything specific regarding it in writing, however. You also should be able to get the free service from any Lexus dealer, not just the one you purchased from.
11-11-13, 09:45 AM
#22
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Better question: does anyone have their complimentary coupon?
Also: where can I locate oil change intervals on the manual?(I've looked around, no where to be found)
Also: where can I locate oil change intervals on the manual?(I've looked around, no where to be found)
11-11-13, 10:21 AM
#23
Lexus Test Driver
[QUOTE=sloosh;8231077]Maybe I'll hold off then. On my 600rr with a magnetic drain plug installed I found a crapload during the first few oil changes.[/QUOTE
I highly recommend you use a magnetic drain plug, I had 2 on my corvette. you will find EVERY engine will deposit ferrous metal on the magnet of a drain plug, even my 60,000 mile corvette Z06 had plenty, but if you look closely it's not that much it just looks like a lot of particles because they are all stuck together like a bristle brush and stand up on the magnet.
considering the quantity of oil and the amount of engine, it's a very small amount or metal.
also keep in mind those particles are WAY smaller than the clearance between bearing surfaces in the engine. so they never rub on anything and they never cause any wear. they are simply a byproduct of any engine, mostly they are from the rings which always wear against the cylinder walls, and from the camshaft lobes but this is normal engine wear, no engine is 100% void of metal to metal contact.
I do like the idea of the magnet catching these particles and your able to remove them with the oil change. but also keep in mind they usually rest on the bottom of the oil pan anyway and aren't circulated through the engine more than once, because anything large enough to cause any damage gets trapped in the oil filter.
here is another thing to consider, let's say you were horrible at changing the oil, used the cheap stuff. as long as it meets or exceeds the manufacturers specified oil be rest assured your engine will last well beyond 100,000 miles.
ask yourself if you still plan to be driving it with over 100k miles on it. unless this is your first new car in 10 years, it's likely you won't be driving it that long.
as much as we love our cars, look at the reality.. why spend all that money on oil changes and high tech expensive oil when either way it will still serve your needs. the next buyer is not going to give a rats *** if you used synthetic or if you changed it once a month. it won't add any resale value to the car, it won't make it run any better, and likely won't make it last any longer. (at least not for the time you will own it.)
from a longevity standpoint you can do your engine a lot more justice by using exactly the oil recommended by Lexus paying special attention to the viscosity rating and the temperatures the car will be subjected to. it is far worse for an engine when cold to be running too thick viscosity of oil on startup and warm up. driving your car without allowing the engine to fully reach operating temperature and running the engine to redline is far more damaging to a motor than frequency in which you change oil and what type you use.
I see nothing wrong with using synthetic. personally I think it lasts longer, it resists thermal breakdown better and my sales guy said the Lexus recommends synthetic. I have not had to do an oil change on mine yet and I have not looked at the owners manual regarding this yet either.
I run synthetic in my Tacoma because it's supercharged otherwise I run regular Castrol or Valvoline whichever is on sale at the auto parts store when I buy.
I also use WIX filters because they have a metal end cap inside and not cardboard.
I run synthetic in my dirt bike because it only holds .5 qt of oil and sometimes runs pretty hot in the tight woods. so I like as much protection as I can get. also when you can change the oil with less than a quart it really doesn't matter from a cost point.
I highly recommend you use a magnetic drain plug, I had 2 on my corvette. you will find EVERY engine will deposit ferrous metal on the magnet of a drain plug, even my 60,000 mile corvette Z06 had plenty, but if you look closely it's not that much it just looks like a lot of particles because they are all stuck together like a bristle brush and stand up on the magnet.
considering the quantity of oil and the amount of engine, it's a very small amount or metal.
also keep in mind those particles are WAY smaller than the clearance between bearing surfaces in the engine. so they never rub on anything and they never cause any wear. they are simply a byproduct of any engine, mostly they are from the rings which always wear against the cylinder walls, and from the camshaft lobes but this is normal engine wear, no engine is 100% void of metal to metal contact.
I do like the idea of the magnet catching these particles and your able to remove them with the oil change. but also keep in mind they usually rest on the bottom of the oil pan anyway and aren't circulated through the engine more than once, because anything large enough to cause any damage gets trapped in the oil filter.
here is another thing to consider, let's say you were horrible at changing the oil, used the cheap stuff. as long as it meets or exceeds the manufacturers specified oil be rest assured your engine will last well beyond 100,000 miles.
ask yourself if you still plan to be driving it with over 100k miles on it. unless this is your first new car in 10 years, it's likely you won't be driving it that long.
as much as we love our cars, look at the reality.. why spend all that money on oil changes and high tech expensive oil when either way it will still serve your needs. the next buyer is not going to give a rats *** if you used synthetic or if you changed it once a month. it won't add any resale value to the car, it won't make it run any better, and likely won't make it last any longer. (at least not for the time you will own it.)
from a longevity standpoint you can do your engine a lot more justice by using exactly the oil recommended by Lexus paying special attention to the viscosity rating and the temperatures the car will be subjected to. it is far worse for an engine when cold to be running too thick viscosity of oil on startup and warm up. driving your car without allowing the engine to fully reach operating temperature and running the engine to redline is far more damaging to a motor than frequency in which you change oil and what type you use.
I see nothing wrong with using synthetic. personally I think it lasts longer, it resists thermal breakdown better and my sales guy said the Lexus recommends synthetic. I have not had to do an oil change on mine yet and I have not looked at the owners manual regarding this yet either.
I run synthetic in my Tacoma because it's supercharged otherwise I run regular Castrol or Valvoline whichever is on sale at the auto parts store when I buy.
I also use WIX filters because they have a metal end cap inside and not cardboard.
I run synthetic in my dirt bike because it only holds .5 qt of oil and sometimes runs pretty hot in the tight woods. so I like as much protection as I can get. also when you can change the oil with less than a quart it really doesn't matter from a cost point.
11-11-13, 10:57 AM
#24
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considering the quantity of oil and the amount of engine, it's a very small amount or metal.
also keep in mind those particles are WAY smaller than the clearance between bearing surfaces in the engine. so they never rub on anything and they never cause any wear. they are simply a byproduct of any engine, mostly they are from the rings which always wear against the cylinder walls, and from the camshaft lobes but this is normal engine wear, no engine is 100% void of metal to metal contact.
I do like the idea of the magnet catching these particles and your able to remove them with the oil change. but also keep in mind they usually rest on the bottom of the oil pan anyway and aren't circulated through the engine more than once, because anything large enough to cause any damage gets trapped in the oil filter.
here is another thing to consider, let's say you were horrible at changing the oil, used the cheap stuff. as long as it meets or exceeds the manufacturers specified oil be rest assured your engine will last well beyond 100,000 miles.
ask yourself if you still plan to be driving it with over 100k miles on it. unless this is your first new car in 10 years, it's likely you won't be driving it that long.
as much as we love our cars, look at the reality.. why spend all that money on oil changes and high tech expensive oil when either way it will still serve your needs. the next buyer is not going to give a rats *** if you used synthetic or if you changed it once a month. it won't add any resale value to the car, it won't make it run any better, and likely won't make it last any longer. (at least not for the time you will own it.)
from a longevity standpoint you can do your engine a lot more justice by using exactly the oil recommended by Lexus paying special attention to the viscosity rating and the temperatures the car will be subjected to. it is far worse for an engine when cold to be running too thick viscosity of oil on startup and warm up. driving your car without allowing the engine to fully reach operating temperature and running the engine to redline is far more damaging to a motor than frequency in which you change oil and what type you use.
I see nothing wrong with using synthetic. personally I think it lasts longer, it resists thermal breakdown better and my sales guy said the Lexus recommends synthetic. I have not had to do an oil change on mine yet and I have not looked at the owners manual regarding this yet either.
I run synthetic in my Tacoma because it's supercharged otherwise I run regular Castrol or Valvoline whichever is on sale at the auto parts store when I buy.
I also use WIX filters because they have a metal end cap inside and not cardboard.
I run synthetic in my dirt bike because it only holds .5 qt of oil and sometimes runs pretty hot in the tight woods. so I like as much protection as I can get. also when you can change the oil with less than a quart it really doesn't matter from a cost point.
11-11-13, 12:35 PM
#26
Lexus Test Driver
Well, my last car I did run to 215K miles over 12+ years with no engine issues always using full synthetic oil and always Mobil 1. I plan on changing the oil once every 10k in this car using nothing but the best as I see myself keeping this car for 10+ years unless the RC-F wows me.
the oil I worry about is the oil that goes in the airplanes I fly. if you've ever seen that stuff it looks a lot like honey and it's very thick. aircraft engines have to deal with a little more than cars. number 1 they run at a constant speed and under a constant load for 90% of their life.
if your engine quits you can't pull off the road and call AAA to save your ***!
but any car that's well cared for will likely last well over 100k miles.
engines for the most part mechanically are pretty much reliable with regular maintenance. its the rest of the car that usually falls apart! usually more so with domestics and a few European brands.
11-11-13, 12:39 PM
#27
Lexus Test Driver
but 0w-20 seems pretty heavy to me.
one thing to keep in mind about oil is the thickness of it is not as important as the flow. if its too thick it won't lubricate valve guides, and won't flow into passages as easily.
getting oil to operating temp as quick as possible is critical to having the correct viscosity.
11-11-13, 05:25 PM
#29
have not read my manual yet, as I don't have the IS yet, and haven't got 10k on the GS yet to have to change..
but 0w-20 seems pretty heavy to me.
one thing to keep in mind about oil is the thickness of it is not as important as the flow. if its too thick it won't lubricate valve guides, and won't flow into passages as easily.
getting oil to operating temp as quick as possible is critical to having the correct viscosity.
but 0w-20 seems pretty heavy to me.
one thing to keep in mind about oil is the thickness of it is not as important as the flow. if its too thick it won't lubricate valve guides, and won't flow into passages as easily.
getting oil to operating temp as quick as possible is critical to having the correct viscosity.
Unless you are living in North pole, its the thinnest oil I have ever seen.
11-11-13, 05:35 PM
#30
Lexus Test Driver