IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

sway bar end link question

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Old 02-11-15, 12:50 PM
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VTsuckah
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Default sway bar end link question

I've been trying to install fsport sway bars. My front and rear sway bar end links were all rusted solid. No big deal, out came the pb blaster and breaker bar. I broke them free; however, in doing so the nut now spins with the bolt and will not come off. Is there a trick to keep the bolt from spinning while I unscrew the nut or are my end links toast?

This shouldn't be this hard!
Old 02-11-15, 01:22 PM
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Gville350
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The end links I had on my 2IS had an hex head end on it. So while you turned on the nut, you keep the threaded portion in place with the allen key. Unfortunately mine were rusted so badly that when I tried the above, that I stripped the hex portion. So I just cut them off with my Dremel, removed the end links and sway bar, and ordered new end links. For that one week, I drove around with no sway bar.

Good luck!
Old 02-11-15, 01:44 PM
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VTsuckah
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Yeah I just found them after I got done typing the tread. Mine are rusted to a point that the hex head doesn't even fit. The one that fit a little just got stripped. I'm going to try vice grips before I start cutting. Thanks for the quick response.
Old 02-11-15, 05:03 PM
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Gville350
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Wish you luck; but more than likely you'll be just replacing the end links. On the new set, be sure to use anti-seize on the threads.
Old 02-12-15, 04:45 AM
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tnoice
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I took a small pick tool and cleaned the hex insert so that it would fit. Then it worked perfectly.
Old 02-12-15, 06:50 PM
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VTsuckah
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I ended up taking a vice grip to keep the bolt from spinning. They were hell to get off, but they're off.

I can't stress how great our Sewell discounts are. Sewell charges $71 per end link, my local dealer charges $125 per. I sprung for 2 day shipping and should have all four tomorrow. Even with shipping, they are substantially cheaper, I'll get them same day as if I bought them from the dealer, and I dont have to deal with traffic while driving to the dealership.
Old 02-13-15, 12:24 AM
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getafewliv
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Originally Posted by VTsuckah
I ended up taking a vice grip to keep the bolt from spinning. They were hell to get off, but they're off.

I can't stress how great our Sewell discounts are. Sewell charges $71 per end link, my local dealer charges $125 per. I sprung for 2 day shipping and should have all four tomorrow. Even with shipping, they are substantially cheaper, I'll get them same day as if I bought them from the dealer, and I dont have to deal with traffic while driving to the dealership.
Unless you are in Canada. Then shipping is brutal. I usually have to get parts shipped to the border and pick them up myself.
Old 02-13-15, 06:44 AM
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2ISTruong
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Originally Posted by VTsuckah
Yeah I just found them after I got done typing the tread. Mine are rusted to a point that the hex head doesn't even fit. The one that fit a little just got stripped. I'm going to try vice grips before I start cutting. Thanks for the quick response.
I had the same issue. I ended up just removing the entire swaybar/endlink to work it on a bench with vice grips. What a pain in the a**...

It really should be a 30 min job that turned into a few hrs for me
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