Jeffrimerm

Got everything to work. I use the utility in Techstream to input new sensor id codes but when I finish and then go back to the list they are still the same. I even set the car to 2nd set and tried to program those and still nothing changed. I must be doing something wrong. Maybe I need to turn car off and on and reconnect to check? Thanks in advance

getafewliv

Hmm.. I have done it before but can't remember anything on how to do it. My only suggestions are to make sure there's no 'apply changes' kind of button, or 'upload changes'.

Are the sensors OEM and is the serial number a similar format to the ones already entered?

Jeffrimerm

It seems to accept everything. They are OEM. They had the right format with 7 letters and numbers. Even if they were all bad I would think the system would accept them. Is there a trick? Do I need to input starting with a 0 or something? There doesn't seem to be a single youtube on it.

getafewliv

Hmm weird. I don't remember any sort of trick. I would check it out tonight, but I haven't installed Techstream on my new laptop yet. If I get a chance later tonight or tomorrow, I will try and install it (Windows 8, so it may be a pain) and see how I got them entered.

Jeffrimerm

Wow that would be awesome if you could but hopefully someone who has it already can chime in. Luckily my friend had an old laptop that I was able to put a 32 bit Windows 7 on.

scott1256c

I had a lot of trouble programming my steering ecu. If you are using a laptop, try plugging it in and charging it while you do the programming. If you have a trickle charger, you might try connecting that as well.
I have a suspicion that the chipset in the laptop is not supplying a high enough voltage to the cable, but that plugging it in to charge it might just get it over the hump. When I did that, I got further the two times I tried to program afterwards (second time successfully programmed), than I ever did before that.

That being said, I always saw some kind of an error when it failed, and you aren't seeing one. You problem may be procedural, but I've not tried to program tpms so I can't help you there.

getafewliv

I also had a hell of a time programming my steering ECU. And I have no idea why it worked when it did. But I didn't have any issues at all with TPMS.

Jeffrimerm

That's sorta good to know that it just may be that there isn't enough juice for the laptop to actually push through the new info to the ecu. It's one thing to receive data from the ecu and another to send it. I did notice my car wouldn't start either afterwards and so I connected jumper cables to my car after and it started so maybe there is lots of power draining during the attempts I was doing over the hour I was sitting there. I only tried like 3 or 4 times but was pondering life during that time too

I have a trickle charger but I'll borrow a real charger and plug my laptop in and try again and see. I think it said "successful" after I was done so that's why I was surprised it didn't work or maybe it said something else like "completed" but for sure it didn't have an error message. Thanks guys, I'll try asap

I wonder if I accidentally erased all saved settings on the engine ecu and that's why it wouldn't start, but it didn't even crank. I drive my gf car most of the time so maybe the batter is just getting weak since I only drove 4500 miles in the last 12 months.

scott1256c

I wouldn't be too concerned about the car not starting first try after disconnecting the battery/reprogramming etc. I don't remember the circumstances exactly, but I experienced similar. I also have not put a lot of miles on the car in the last year and since I have had trips out of town, it has sat for up to 2 weeks at a time. But my battery is also only 1 year old now, and I did have to boost it after one lengthy and very frustrating session of trying to program that ecu. That is partly why I suggested the trickle charger, but I don't think programming tpms should take nearly as long. While I don't think connecting a trickle charger is going to solve anything, I figured it can't hurt

Jeffrimerm

Tried again with laptop plugged in and with jumper cables to another car so maybe that caused this error. "ID registration failed due to a communication error with the ECU while in Initialization mode."
"Terminate Initialization by connecting TC and CG of the DLC3 for 30 seconds". So I just took car around the block, check engine light is on but I'm sure it will turn off later, drove fine. Now computer is installing 166 updates since I just put Windows7 on it =/

Jeffrimerm

Sitting in car with techstream plugged in shouldn't drain the battery that much. It really is low now. Putting on charger overnight now. I will do as the message says and connect CG to TC. I had jumper cables connected to another car so battery shouldn't have been the ECU issue. I also checked the OBD fuse and the ECU fuse in the box under the passenger side dash. Let's see tomorrow if I can finally get the techstream to tell the ECU what to do.

Jeffrimerm

Woooo HOoooo success!! Thank you. The plugging in a trickle charger and power supply to laptop must have done the trick. The connection common ground and some other pin of the DLC3 prob helped too. So 3 of the 4 tpms sensors seem to work since they are registering 1.4 ish lbs of pressure and 77 degress of room temperature. The 4th still says N/A so I should order another sensor. Maybe I'll juggle them around in the ecu just to be sure.

chatty70

I've taken so much from YouTube and Forums that I think I should start contributing too. After many unsuccessful attempts trying to connect Techstream to TPMS, I finally got pass the error message that says "Terminate Initialization by connecting TC and CG of the DLC3 for 30 seconds". Thanks to all the helpful folks out there. Like what Jeffrimerm mentioned (but who would have thought of this). I plugged in a power supply to the laptop and put a trickle charger on the car battery. The error message disappeared and I am able to enter the 5 (including a spare tire) TPMS codes into the system. Thx!

rickdestik

Does anyone know the order of the TPMS's listed in the TIS relative to the physical location (LR, LF, RF, RR, Spare)??

Bichon

It doesn't matter. The spare doesn't have a TPMS sensor and the car neither displays the inflation pressure nor indicates which wheel or wheels are reporting low pressure.