brendanhm

Hi Everyone!

Parked my car at work yesterday and as I was rushing out, I noticed an error "Key FOB batter low" or something to that affect. In my rush to get into the office this indicates two things 1) My Key Fob is low 2) I must've double clicked the push to start button in order for that message to get displayed as I exited the vehicle

It appears as though the power was left on all day (guessing). When I return to car in evening everything is completely dead. No lights, power etc. Luckily I get a ride home.

The next morning I go outside with my buddy and a booster cable and try to charge the car using his sedan. Once everything is plugged in the power in my car turns on (lights, display etc.) We leave it for 10 minutes and I press the push to start. Nothing happens Power seems good to go but the engine doesn't make a sound. Multiple lights are on dashboard (engine, battery for sure)

I try a few more times and eventually take off the cables. The power stays on for maybe 5 more minutes and I try turning the car on and off to no avail. After 5 more minutes the power goes completely dead again.

I'm guessing I should start by getting a new battery for both FOB and car.

But what else is going on here? Why doesn't it start when being boosted? Shouldn't it still start or at least attempt to start?

Thanks!
Brendan

jonathanz

iTrader: (2)

what kind of sedan was it? was he holding the gas on his car and rev the engine approx 3k RPM? small sedean is weak. most likely the battery does not even have enough juice to even spin the starter

brendanhm

He was using an Infiniti G36 I think (2 door sedan).

I don't think he had it revved for the whole 10 minutes, occasionally revved it up.

pmanliu

iTrader: (4)

No alternator clicking noise?

Also, when your key fob is low you need to hold it up next to the start button in order for the car to start. But i dont think this applies to you cause you said the electronics at least turn on temporarily?

brendanhm

No click noises at all.

I would assume I would get an error about the FOB not being detected if that was the issue and the red light is going on.

I'm going to run downstairs and try for another 10 minutes at 3000rpm.

What should next steps be? I'm not optimistic that this will work.

pmanliu

iTrader: (4)

At this point it might be worth just getting a new battery and installing it in the parking lot instead of the 3k rpms at 10 minutes.

idoke1

iTrader: (5)

^^agreed. Your battery is probably bad in both key fob and car. Go buy a new set and see if it solves the issue.

brendanhm

new battery did the trick. time for a new one anyways. Thanks all!

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^Also have your alternator checked! A bad alternator can drain your battery quick AND cause it to go bad prematurely.

brendanhm

Bad news-

2 weeks into the same new battery, went to drive for lunch (within 3 hours of driving to work) and zero power (no lights, locks, dashboard etc.)

Haven't tried boosting yet, but need an understanding of what is going on here?

Help!

MikeFoxx

iTrader: (8)

Have you done this yet? There isn't a whole lot that can eat the life out of a battery more than a bad alternator. Whoever is helping you with these batteries should have at least taken one more step and test the alt for you. It just goes hand in hand.

brendanhm

Hey,

I installed it on my own, don't really have the know-how otherwise.

Thing is, I talked to a mechanic on the phone earlier and he didn't seem to think it was the alternator. In fact, he referred me to a different shop that could help with the electrical. They are competing shops so I don't know why he wouldn't want to bring me in to have the alternator changed?

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

^That is interesting, but I really doubt anything but a bad alternator could cause a 100% good battery to go bad in that amount of time other than having no working alternator to recharge your battery.

Any auto part store can check your alternator by the way.

xanderES

iTrader: (8)

Both your battery and alt can be tested without removal with just a multimeter.

If they're both good have you installed any electrical devices in the car? Its possible that you have a parasitic drain from something not shutting off.

Lastly, instead of buying new batteries/returning them try a low amp ~1.5 trickle charger it'll probably be able to revive the batteries and will keep your winter car charged while in storage.