IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

IS250 - 2006 - transmission issue

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Old 02-13-21, 07:30 AM
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Rmatthews
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Default IS250 - 2006 - transmission issue

I was recently deployed with the military and I left my is250 with a Transmission shop because the car was would not shift last 3rd gear and I was getting a solenoid C code. I was told it was the valve body assembly that needed to be replaced. After buying the part from a salvaged car online (and the mechanic letting the warranty run out before he looked at it) then I was told the part didn’t fit my car. Now I have returned and went to the shop to pickup my car and it won’t start. I replaced the battery, just had a new alternator put on it before I left, and now it will attempt crank once and then die out. After that one attempt the car doesn’t even turn over and try to crank. If I hook the car up to a code machine it is reading everything but the engine and transmission parts. I am at a loss on what to do now, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Old 02-14-21, 11:09 AM
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Dealarr
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Originally Posted by Rmatthews
I was recently deployed with the military and I left my is250 with a Transmission shop because the car was would not shift last 3rd gear and I was getting a solenoid C code. I was told it was the valve body assembly that needed to be replaced. After buying the part from a salvaged car online (and the mechanic letting the warranty run out before he looked at it) then I was told the part didn’t fit my car. Now I have returned and went to the shop to pickup my car and it won’t start. I replaced the battery, just had a new alternator put on it before I left, and now it will attempt crank once and then die out. After that one attempt the car doesn’t even turn over and try to crank. If I hook the car up to a code machine it is reading everything but the engine and transmission parts. I am at a loss on what to do now, any help would be greatly appreciated.
Did the mechanic swap the ecu over without telling you, or change your fuel pressure sensor over to a faulty without saying anything, it's showing those symptoms. or did he try to jumpstart the car being left alone so long and had the connectors crossed, blown fusilink. Also, another possibility is being left alone that long, could be vermins/rodents, that would be the most difficult to diagnose in terms of location of damaged wires..

Old 02-14-21, 03:06 PM
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Rmatthews
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He said that he didn’t change anything. It not sure how I would ever know at this point. He came outside and tried to help me get it to start for over a couple hours. Tested the fuses, fuse link, and tried to scan it for codes. We never found the problem before I had to leave. It was sitting outside in the parking lot for about 60 days without cranking and then he jumped it off when he moved it into the shop. It sat for another 30 days when I tried to recover the vehicle. The battery I had on it was put on there about 90 days previously when I had the alternator replaced, and it tested that it was too dead to jump after I tried to crank twice. I put the new battery on that same day and it wouldn’t even try to turn over to start. I let the car sit for another week and when I returned it crank up twice and died out followed by not turning over again. I left and came back two weeks later and it crank and died out followed by not turning over again. I guess I have to pay to get it towed to another mechanic at this point.
Old 02-14-21, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Rmatthews
He said that he didn’t change anything. It not sure how I would ever know at this point. He came outside and tried to help me get it to start for over a couple hours. Tested the fuses, fuse link, and tried to scan it for codes. We never found the problem before I had to leave. It was sitting outside in the parking lot for about 60 days without cranking and then he jumped it off when he moved it into the shop. It sat for another 30 days when I tried to recover the vehicle. The battery I had on it was put on there about 90 days previously when I had the alternator replaced, and it tested that it was too dead to jump after I tried to crank twice. I put the new battery on that same day and it wouldn’t even try to turn over to start. I let the car sit for another week and when I returned it crank up twice and died out followed by not turning over again. I left and came back two weeks later and it crank and died out followed by not turning over again. I guess I have to pay to get it towed to another mechanic at this point.
Can you describe the last time your car was able to start, before the next action till it wasn't able to start, was it after the swap of the new battery and alternator after parking at the mechanics place for him to tell you your valvebody didn't fit. It almost felt like he wants to see how deep your pocket is.
Old 02-15-21, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Dealarr
Can you describe the last time your car was able to start, before the next action till it wasn't able to start, was it after the swap of the new battery and alternator after parking at the mechanics place for him to tell you your valvebody didn't fit. It almost felt like he wants to see how deep your pocket is.
Today I took the advertisement from where I bought the valve body and ran a VIN check on the vehicle that it came from. I discovered that the advertisement said it was RWD but after running the VIN it actually came off a AWD. I am trying to get my money back for the part now.

In August 2020, my car was stored at my house and would start and drive fine but only shift up to 3rd gear. Sometime in September, I went out to drive the car to an auto shop and it wouldn’t crank. After testing the battery, it was replaced and the car cranked up just fine. One day later, the battery needed jumping off. I took it immediately to my local mechanic who ended up replacing the alternator. Now the car has a new battery and alternator, it actually drives home and shifts all the way to 6th gear with no check engine light. Next day, the solenoid C code has returned and the problem with transmission is back to not shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. At this point I am preparing to deploy so a few days later I drop the car at the transmission shop. It sits in the parking lot next to the highway without any movement from at least mid-October to the week prior to Christmas. My wife stopped by and got something out of the trunk once in December and the key fob wouldn’t work and it was completely dead.

the mechanic finally tries to work on it on the week prior to Christmas. He says the part doesn’t fit but at a Hail Mary he tries to swap out just the solenoid to see if that works but it doesn’t.

I return on a weekend pass to try and move the car back home and discover it won’t crank. He tells me at the end that he had to jump it off to move it in the shop but he claims that he was able to drive it on the highway after trying to swap the solenoid.

Old 02-16-21, 11:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Rmatthews
Today I took the advertisement from where I bought the valve body and ran a VIN check on the vehicle that it came from. I discovered that the advertisement said it was RWD but after running the VIN it actually came off a AWD. I am trying to get my money back for the part now.

In August 2020, my car was stored at my house and would start and drive fine but only shift up to 3rd gear. Sometime in September, I went out to drive the car to an auto shop and it wouldn’t crank. After testing the battery, it was replaced and the car cranked up just fine. One day later, the battery needed jumping off. I took it immediately to my local mechanic who ended up replacing the alternator. Now the car has a new battery and alternator, it actually drives home and shifts all the way to 6th gear with no check engine light. Next day, the solenoid C code has returned and the problem with transmission is back to not shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. At this point I am preparing to deploy so a few days later I drop the car at the transmission shop. It sits in the parking lot next to the highway without any movement from at least mid-October to the week prior to Christmas. My wife stopped by and got something out of the trunk once in December and the key fob wouldn’t work and it was completely dead.

the mechanic finally tries to work on it on the week prior to Christmas. He says the part doesn’t fit but at a Hail Mary he tries to swap out just the solenoid to see if that works but it doesn’t.

I return on a weekend pass to try and move the car back home and discover it won’t crank. He tells me at the end that he had to jump it off to move it in the shop but he claims that he was able to drive it on the highway after trying to swap the solenoid.
Your battery is being used it sounds like. Something is running it low when the car is off. Have you installed anything electronically? Or complete stock.

You might have two different issues occuring at the same time
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