19x10 19x11 +10 with just a roll and some camber?
09-01-14, 05:16 PM
#1
19x10 19x11 +10 with just a roll and some camber?
Since I posted in the official wheel thread and it's pretty much dead. I figured I would post here. Can I fit 19x10 +10 19x11 +10 with just a roll and like -7 camber all around, front and rear or will I need a pull. Staying static with high spring rates.
UPDATE: I found a better deal with weaker specs. SORRY for the ones who wanted to see the end results but the new specs I'm trying to fit are 19x9.5 19x10 +12. Going to be MUCH easier for me since I don't want to have to pull. Thanks for blowing up the thread with replies
UPDATE: I found a better deal with weaker specs. SORRY for the ones who wanted to see the end results but the new specs I'm trying to fit are 19x9.5 19x10 +12. Going to be MUCH easier for me since I don't want to have to pull. Thanks for blowing up the thread with replies
Last edited by BoyOhBoy; 09-10-14 at 02:53 AM.
09-02-14, 06:21 AM
#9
Air or static?
It can be done with a good rotary tool, fender roller, and F/R camber arms if you're bagged. I've test fit very similar specs.
Static will take more work but it will be a function of how stiff/low you actually want to go. If you want them to clear the fender when your suspension compresses, you'll have to modify the rear arms.
Bottom line is, those specs are possible without any professional body work, as long as you don't want to tuck. My new wheels, which will be done in about a week, are more aggressive than those. DIfference is that I chose a 9.5f and 11.5r so I could have an even drop (225/35 = 640mm and 265/30 = 641mm) without having a taller tire. This means moar low.
You will not need -9* camber unless you want to tuck.
It can be done with a good rotary tool, fender roller, and F/R camber arms if you're bagged. I've test fit very similar specs.
Static will take more work but it will be a function of how stiff/low you actually want to go. If you want them to clear the fender when your suspension compresses, you'll have to modify the rear arms.
Bottom line is, those specs are possible without any professional body work, as long as you don't want to tuck. My new wheels, which will be done in about a week, are more aggressive than those. DIfference is that I chose a 9.5f and 11.5r so I could have an even drop (225/35 = 640mm and 265/30 = 641mm) without having a taller tire. This means moar low.
You will not need -9* camber unless you want to tuck.
09-02-14, 07:48 AM
#10
Air or static?
It can be done with a good rotary tool, fender roller, and F/R camber arms if you're bagged. I've test fit very similar specs.
Static will take more work but it will be a function of how stiff/low you actually want to go. If you want them to clear the fender when your suspension compresses, you'll have to modify the rear arms.
Bottom line is, those specs are possible without any professional body work, as long as you don't want to tuck. My new wheels, which will be done in about a week, are more aggressive than those. DIfference is that I chose a 9.5f and 11.5r so I could have an even drop (225/35 = 640mm and 265/30 = 641mm) without having a taller tire. This means moar low.
You will not need -9* camber unless you want to tuck.
It can be done with a good rotary tool, fender roller, and F/R camber arms if you're bagged. I've test fit very similar specs.
Static will take more work but it will be a function of how stiff/low you actually want to go. If you want them to clear the fender when your suspension compresses, you'll have to modify the rear arms.
Bottom line is, those specs are possible without any professional body work, as long as you don't want to tuck. My new wheels, which will be done in about a week, are more aggressive than those. DIfference is that I chose a 9.5f and 11.5r so I could have an even drop (225/35 = 640mm and 265/30 = 641mm) without having a taller tire. This means moar low.
You will not need -9* camber unless you want to tuck.
09-02-14, 09:50 AM
#11
If you want to drop it and not have ridiculous amounts of camber (depends on each person really), I'd go and get it professionally done. I got my quarters pulled out slightly and rolled completely flat (sealed to body), with repaint and couldn't be happier. I can also fit 3 grown men about 160 lbs each in the back and the wheel will tuck without rubbing.
That being said you should do it once and do it right. I've also heard horror stories about suspension not being stiff enough with an aggressive set up, and people cracking paint, blowing out tires etc.
I'd listen to Sffd on this one.
Edit: sitting static with -1 degree of camber.
That being said you should do it once and do it right. I've also heard horror stories about suspension not being stiff enough with an aggressive set up, and people cracking paint, blowing out tires etc.
I'd listen to Sffd on this one.
Edit: sitting static with -1 degree of camber.
09-02-14, 04:29 PM
#12
If you want to drop it and not have ridiculous amounts of camber (depends on each person really), I'd go and get it professionally done. I got my quarters pulled out slightly and rolled completely flat (sealed to body), with repaint and couldn't be happier. I can also fit 3 grown men about 160 lbs each in the back and the wheel will tuck without rubbing.
That being said you should do it once and do it right. I've also heard horror stories about suspension not being stiff enough with an aggressive set up, and people cracking paint, blowing out tires etc.
I'd listen to Sffd on this one.
Edit: sitting static with -1 degree of camber.
That being said you should do it once and do it right. I've also heard horror stories about suspension not being stiff enough with an aggressive set up, and people cracking paint, blowing out tires etc.
I'd listen to Sffd on this one.
Edit: sitting static with -1 degree of camber.
09-02-14, 05:03 PM
#13
If you like the wheels enough, you will make them fit.
No crazy body work will be required, just a simple roll.
You'll want to get the front upper A arms with the adjustable ball joint, (front camber kit) Megan makes them, i'm running it with -4.5 degrees in the front.
They also have the Rear camber and toe arms. If you want to run more then -4.5 in the rear, you'll need the toe arms as well, as the stock ones do not compensate enough past that point. The rear camber arms max out at -5 degrees. I shortened mine to run -8, thats not recommended though, thats on you.
Unless your a baller, and want to buy T-demand parts from japan, but that **** is bread.
No crazy body work will be required, just a simple roll.
You'll want to get the front upper A arms with the adjustable ball joint, (front camber kit) Megan makes them, i'm running it with -4.5 degrees in the front.
They also have the Rear camber and toe arms. If you want to run more then -4.5 in the rear, you'll need the toe arms as well, as the stock ones do not compensate enough past that point. The rear camber arms max out at -5 degrees. I shortened mine to run -8, thats not recommended though, thats on you.
Unless your a baller, and want to buy T-demand parts from japan, but that **** is bread.
09-03-14, 02:02 PM
#14
In my own experience 18-20x10 +anything lower then 25 is going to make contact with the unibody at full lock turns, I didn't have it cambered out and it was a bit lower offset. But your going to need really good fender work (and Mariano can back me up here), talk to Anthony Lezada at Vex motorsports he can help you a lot.
09-03-14, 03:47 PM
#15
If they don't fit, make them fit. It's not the offsets that will cause you to ruin your fenders, it's your driving.
The only time I did fender damage was when I trusted someone else to roll my fenders and didn't understand the cars limits. When you have the car on jack stands yourself you'll appreciate just where you will run into issues, just where you need to roll and pull more, and then be able to drive the car within it's limits.
There's a guy out there running 19x12 19x13 on a bagged ISF, stock body. There are people with far more aggressive specs even than that out there in the car world. Don't be afraid, just don't be dumb.
The only time I did fender damage was when I trusted someone else to roll my fenders and didn't understand the cars limits. When you have the car on jack stands yourself you'll appreciate just where you will run into issues, just where you need to roll and pull more, and then be able to drive the car within it's limits.
There's a guy out there running 19x12 19x13 on a bagged ISF, stock body. There are people with far more aggressive specs even than that out there in the car world. Don't be afraid, just don't be dumb.