Engine Oil -5W30, 0W30 or 0W20
#1
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Engine Oil -5W30, 0W30 or 0W20
I'm told that in Europe lexus recommend 5W30 but some dealers use 0W30 instead of 5W30. Just wondering if my car was burning oil, what would burn off quicker the 5W30 or the 0W30?
#3
Lexus Champion
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+1. That is also why in colder weather, 0W-30 is better than 5W-30. With 5W-30, you would have to warm up your car a bit longer than if you use 0W-30. Also, the "30" is for engines that run hotter (correct me if i'm wrong) and IS350 has a more powerful engine so it should go with 0W-30 and not 0W-20.
For your information, I use 0W-20 on IS250 2012 and 5W-30 on IS350 2006 as recommended by Lexus.
For your information, I use 0W-20 on IS250 2012 and 5W-30 on IS350 2006 as recommended by Lexus.
#4
Racer
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+1. That is also why in colder weather, 0W-30 is better than 5W-30. With 5W-30, you would have to warm up your car a bit longer than if you use 0W-30. Also, the "30" is for engines that run hotter (correct me if i'm wrong) and IS350 has a more powerful engine so it should go with 0W-30 and not 0W-20.
For your information, I use 0W-20 on IS250 2012 and 5W-30 on IS350 2006 as recommended by Lexus.
For your information, I use 0W-20 on IS250 2012 and 5W-30 on IS350 2006 as recommended by Lexus.
thinner oil usually has better cold start flow/peformance vs a thicker oil
#7
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I was in a hurry and didn't look carefully and picked up a box of Mobil-1 10w-30 and before I realized it, I was pouring quart #6 into the engine on my oil change. Since I live in Los Angeles, and it's starting to warm, I should be ok right?
Or do I need the 5w for better start-up cold protection??? Will probably change it out sooner at 5K. Thanks.
Or do I need the 5w for better start-up cold protection??? Will probably change it out sooner at 5K. Thanks.
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#11
Driver School Candidate
0W vs 5W oil
I bought a 2011 IS350 about a year ago and changed the oil using Mobil1 - 5W-20. I buy my Mobil1 at Costco when it goes on sale (something like $4.60/qt). They don't carry 0W-20. The manual says 5W-20 is OK to use but next oil change should be 0W-20. Just wondering what the general concensus is regarding using 5W all the time. BTW, live in Seattle area so no temperature extremes.
#14
Why would anyone put the M1 junk in their cars? That oil thins out and provides very little protection. Pick up a half decent syn and call it a day.
FYI a motor designed for 0w20 might have passageways not intended for the thicker 0w30.
In my track car I ran 5w40 and in my full built motor in the daily sedan 5w40. In both cases the motor could handle it and the heat caused the 5w40 to get closer to 5w30 by oil change time. I black stone lab tested my oils.
M1 is junk. The only two worth running are M1 Ep and M1 EuroBlend. Basic M1 is water and should be avoided.
I would suggest sticking with the 0w20 for IS250 or 5w30 for IS350 as per Lexus OR if you bother to test your oil samples. Wouldn't just go off what people say. In my experience a 0wX doesn't burn faster than a 5wX or 10wX. Unless your motor is very loose most burning happens at high revs where the oil slips by the rings.
I will tell you this. My oil after 3K is some of the cleanest oil on my IS250 I've seen in years. The oil has barely changed colors. On my turbo'd sedan it would go dark in about 500 miles and on my track car get dark after 3-4k or a track day. Mind you the color only indicates particles captured not the reduction in it's protection. It does appear the 250 motor is very tight.(queue that's what she said comment).
As for consumption, often called burning. Unless you can see smoke out your tail pipes you might be consuming oil via multiple possibilities. Failing PCV, Valve guides etc..
Food for thought
FYI a motor designed for 0w20 might have passageways not intended for the thicker 0w30.
In my track car I ran 5w40 and in my full built motor in the daily sedan 5w40. In both cases the motor could handle it and the heat caused the 5w40 to get closer to 5w30 by oil change time. I black stone lab tested my oils.
M1 is junk. The only two worth running are M1 Ep and M1 EuroBlend. Basic M1 is water and should be avoided.
I would suggest sticking with the 0w20 for IS250 or 5w30 for IS350 as per Lexus OR if you bother to test your oil samples. Wouldn't just go off what people say. In my experience a 0wX doesn't burn faster than a 5wX or 10wX. Unless your motor is very loose most burning happens at high revs where the oil slips by the rings.
I will tell you this. My oil after 3K is some of the cleanest oil on my IS250 I've seen in years. The oil has barely changed colors. On my turbo'd sedan it would go dark in about 500 miles and on my track car get dark after 3-4k or a track day. Mind you the color only indicates particles captured not the reduction in it's protection. It does appear the 250 motor is very tight.(queue that's what she said comment).
As for consumption, often called burning. Unless you can see smoke out your tail pipes you might be consuming oil via multiple possibilities. Failing PCV, Valve guides etc..
Food for thought
Last edited by robtwo; 08-01-14 at 04:34 PM.
#15
Lexus Champion
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What is M1? Any back up of it being junk? (not provoking an argument, merely curiously asking questions)
Also, if a person drive the car hard (autocross once a month, occasional track etc), can they stick to the 10k interval oil change with synthetic oil per Lexus recommendation? if not, what should the interval be?
Also, if a person drive the car hard (autocross once a month, occasional track etc), can they stick to the 10k interval oil change with synthetic oil per Lexus recommendation? if not, what should the interval be?