outlaws

I just hit 40k miles on my 2009 IS250. I drive pretty slow since I just commute in traffic everyday so it's not like I'm racing. I was told by the stealership that I needed new rotors for the front because they can't be resurfaced. I took it to my local garage and they said the same thing. Turns out it's some kind of european design like the BMW's and it's like that for all models of Lexus. $400 for a new rotor every 40k miles seems excessive. I've owned Acuras and Toyotas before and never had a rotor that can't be resurfaced.

Kurtz

iTrader: (1)

They certainly can be resurfaced... but there's no reason to unless there's something wrong with them. All it'd do is waste useful metal otherwise.

Many folks have a lot more miles than that on their original rotors.... though if you drive in a lot of traffic that might explain it.

The rotors don't cost anywhere near $400 though.

Sewell has em for $94.99 each (so about $190 for the front pair)... and you can get a pair of centric premium blanks even cheaper (probably around 140ish for the pair)

outlaws

How many miles do rotors usually go for? Is there anyway for me to check this myself? Having both the dealership and the garage telling me otherwise is worrisome to me if I don't get it replaced. I think the quote was $200 for rotors, $100 for labor, and $50 for pads and taxes and what not comes out to $400 which is reasonably the same. I'm also replacing my rear brake pads.

Individual

iTrader: (7)

They may have recommended the rotor replacement due to the measurement being low, see the bolded section. Next time you do get an inspection, ask them for the disc measurement of what's remaining. This is what the inspection procedure looks like for the Lexus Repair Manual (I copied and pasted the whole thing in case there's anything more useful and there are illustrations that couldn't be transferred):

Last Modified: 12-13-2012 6.4 G Doc ID: RM000000WEI00EX
Model Year: 2009 Model: IS250 Prod Date Range: [08/2008 - ]
Title: BRAKE: FRONT BRAKE (for 4GR-FSE): INSPECTION; 2009 MY IS250 [08/2008 - ]

INSPECTION
1. INSPECT BRAKE CYLINDER AND PISTON

(a) Check the cylinder bore and piston for rust or scoring.

If necessary, replace the disc brake cylinder assembly.

2. INSPECT PAD LINING THICKNESS

(a) Using a ruler, measure the pad lining thickness.

Pad Lining Thickness:

Pad Type
Standard Thickness
Minimum Thickness

for Type A
12.2 mm (0.480 in.)
1.0 mm (0.0394 in.)

for Type B
12.0 mm (0.472 in.)
1.0 mm (0.0394 in.)


If the pad lining thickness is less than the minimum, replace the brake pads.

HINT:

Be sure to check wear of the front disc after replacing the brake pad with a new one.

3. INSPECT NO. 1 FRONT DISC BRAKE PAD SUPPORT PLATE

(a) Make sure that the No. 1 front disc brake pad support plate has sufficient rebound, has no deformation, cracks or wear, and that all rust and dirt are cleaned off.

If necessary, replace the No. 1 front disc brake pad support plate.

4. INSPECT NO. 2 FRONT DISC BRAKE PAD SUPPORT PLATE

(a) Make sure that the No. 2 front disc brake pad support plate has sufficient rebound, has no deformation, cracks or wear, and that all rust and dirt are cleaned off.

If necessary, replace the No. 2 front disc brake pad support plate.

5. INSPECT DISC THICKNESS



(a) Using a micrometer, measure the disc thickness.


Text in Illustration
*A
for Type A
*B
for Type B

*1
Micrometer
-
-


Disc Thickness:

Disc Type
Standard Thickness
Minimum Thickness

for Type A
28.0 mm (1.10 in.)
25.0 mm (0.984 in.)

for Type B
32.0 mm (1.26 in.)
30.0 mm (1.18 in.)


If the disc thickness is less than the minimum, replace the front disc.

6. INSPECT DISC RUNOUT

(a) Using SST to hold the disc, tighten the disc with the 5 hub nuts.

SST: 09330-00021

Torque:

103 N·m {1,050 kgf·cm, 76ft·lbf}

(b) Using a dial indicator, measure the disc runout 10 mm (0.39 in.) away from the outer edge of the disc.

Maximum disc runout:

0.05 mm (0.0020 in.)

NOTICE:

•Keep the magnet of the dial indicator away from the axle hub and speed sensor.
•Install the dial indicator to the shock absorber.


(c) If the runout exceeds the maximum value, change the installation positions of the disc and axle so that the runout will become minimal. If the runout exceeds the maximum even when the installation positions are changed, check the bearing play in the axial direction and the axle hub runout . If the bearing play and the axle hub runout are normal and if the disc thickness is not within the specified range, grind the disc. If the disc thickness is less than the minimum, replace the disc.

outlaws

This is really some good info!
Is there anything I can do if they didn't check the specs? That would really **** me off knowing they didn't even check or not knowing the proper width to be replaced.

Individual

iTrader: (7)

Sorry, I had to re-edit it, that was originally for an IS350. I changed it to an 2009 IS250.

You should ask them again what the measurements are, if they don't know, then you should be able to get it inspected at no charge since they already checked it for you the first time, assuming you paid to have it inspected.

Gville350

iTrader: (10)

They are a repair shop in the business of making money by any means possible. Of course they are going to tell you you need new parts. Be an informed customer BEFORE going in for repairs/fixing and ask the right questions. In this case, get them to measure the current rotor and pad thicknesses and decide yourself on how to proceed. Or...learn to do your own replacements. Take the money you would have spent in labor and spend it on tools that will last a lifetime.

flowrider

iTrader: (9)

read this:

http://www.tirereview.com/Article/95...o_replace.aspx

Lou

yatssdaa

This is what the inspection procedure looks like for the Lexus Repair Manual

ISmak4

For me I got my rotors replaced at about ~85,xxx kms it cost me around ~$350 I kind of figured that I needed them to be replaced at that many kilometers.

Offspring

iTrader: (3)

centric premium blacks, where can i buy these other than tirerack. i feel dumb for asking but i cant find a vendor on here that sells them, other than tirerack.

KillaIS250

iTrader: (1)

Try Autoanything.com

You can also go to the Centric website and get the specific part number you need using their look up tool and then just google it or search that part number on Amazon.

Offspring

iTrader: (3)

any reason everyone recommends centric blanks ? i DD my car so i dont need fancy rotors or pads, just whatever came factory with some low dust pads.

Kurtz

iTrader: (1)

Main problem here is they admit that some people, including some OEMs, admit you do NOT need to resurface the rotors when replacing pads if there's nothing wrong with the rotors (same advice I gave)

and then they go on to tell you "But don't be cheap and have em resurfaced anyway"

Which is terrible advice.


If there's nothing wrong with the rotor then all resurfacing does is waste rotor metal.


Their advice about doing it to avoid the pads not being right until worn in ignores the fact anyone doing a proper brake swap should be bedding in the new pads immediately- solving that issue entirely and preventing future ones with uneven pad transfer.





In short- contrary to that article- resurfacing is a last resort when there's something wrong with the rotors, bad enough you can't fix it with a re-bed or a garnet pad- but not SO bad you need to replace them. It is NOT a correct standard procedure during pad replacement.

Kurtz

iTrader: (1)

Mainly because they'll do the same job as OEMs and cost 30-50 bucks less per pair of rotors.