brake bleeding
#1
brake bleeding
Hey guys, I was planning on bleeding my brakes by myself using the mityvac 6830 brake bleeder. Are there any tips or tricks I need to follow in order to do it correctly? From what I've been told, just start with the wheel thats furthers away from the master cylinder and work my way towards it. Some people have also told me that I need to have the cars power on OR running. Any lexus/ toyota techs feel free to chime in please!
#4
I havent bled the brakes on my IS yet, but when I usually do, I pinch off the line (rubber hose part), then replace the caliper. After installation, I let the fluid drip out of the caliper hole, then add more fluid to the master cylinder and start the normal bleeding process.
#5
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I have the mityvac and the brake bleeder kit. Tried bleeding with the kit, but the kit didn't provide a plug to keep a tight vacuum seal. I tried duct taping it temporarily, but was unsuccessful....abandoned the bleeder kit and just did it the old way....having someone pump the brakes to bleed the brakes.
I believe someone on Amazon stated the same issue in their review of the bleeder kit....need to find that plug.
I believe someone on Amazon stated the same issue in their review of the bleeder kit....need to find that plug.
#6
Lead Lap
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I just recently bleed my brakes. After bleeding them the old school way (with two people), I bought Earl's Solo Bleeders since it was recommended by some reputable people here on CL.
I really do not know how the the mityvac works... but this is how I did it old school style:
1 - Jack your car up on four jacks, remove wheels.
2- Using a turkey baster (or anything similar), remove as much of the old brake fluid from the reservoir as possible. Refill to the max line with new brake fluid.
3 - Start with your passenger rear brake. You want to start as far as way from the brake reservoir and work your way towards it. So you will go passenger rear brake, to driver rear brake, to passenger front brake, and finally to driver front brake.
4 - Behind the caliper, you will find the rubber cap that covers the bolt that allows you to bleed. Remove the cap. Place a 3/8th ID tubing on the nipple (this will fit snug!). Put the other end of the tube into a container (I used a water bottle).
5 - Time for your assistant to come help. Turn the car on to the ON position. Have them pump the brake (about three times) until it is stiff.
6 - Instruct your assistant to depress the brake pedal (and keep their foot down). Use a 10mm wrench to turn the bolt about half a turn. You will only have it open for a second. Allow fluid to come out briefly. Then tighten the bolt and instruct your assistant to take their foot off the brake. (CAUTION: Should your assistant take his foot off the pedal before you tighten the bolt, this could suck air back into the system)
7 - Continually do this until you feel that new brake fluid has replaced old brake fluid (this was difficult for me, because they look quite similar) AND when there aren't any air bubbles showing up in the plastic tubing.
8 - Go check the brake fluid reservoir. Ensure you DO NOT LET IT GET DOWN PAST MINIMUM. Should you do so, you may allow air to enter the system, which will cause brake failure. Continually check this throughout your brake fluid flush. I always topped it up to the max line periodically throughout my brake flush.
9 - Repeat for the other corners. I personally noticed when doing the fronts, while the brake bleeding bolt was tightened, I had to ask my assistant to pump the brakes a few times, then hold it down (then I would loosen the bolt).
10 - When you're done, check the brake pedal. It should not feel soft or mushy.
It's fairly easy, just the only precaution is that you don't want to introduce any sort of air into the system.
I feel this is pretty complete, however it is 8AM and I haven't had my coffee yet
The Earl's Solo Bleeders basically replace your assistant and really eliminate the possibility of air entering the line from when you're opening and closing the bleeder valve. Pretty win-win if you ask me!
I really do not know how the the mityvac works... but this is how I did it old school style:
1 - Jack your car up on four jacks, remove wheels.
2- Using a turkey baster (or anything similar), remove as much of the old brake fluid from the reservoir as possible. Refill to the max line with new brake fluid.
3 - Start with your passenger rear brake. You want to start as far as way from the brake reservoir and work your way towards it. So you will go passenger rear brake, to driver rear brake, to passenger front brake, and finally to driver front brake.
4 - Behind the caliper, you will find the rubber cap that covers the bolt that allows you to bleed. Remove the cap. Place a 3/8th ID tubing on the nipple (this will fit snug!). Put the other end of the tube into a container (I used a water bottle).
5 - Time for your assistant to come help. Turn the car on to the ON position. Have them pump the brake (about three times) until it is stiff.
6 - Instruct your assistant to depress the brake pedal (and keep their foot down). Use a 10mm wrench to turn the bolt about half a turn. You will only have it open for a second. Allow fluid to come out briefly. Then tighten the bolt and instruct your assistant to take their foot off the brake. (CAUTION: Should your assistant take his foot off the pedal before you tighten the bolt, this could suck air back into the system)
7 - Continually do this until you feel that new brake fluid has replaced old brake fluid (this was difficult for me, because they look quite similar) AND when there aren't any air bubbles showing up in the plastic tubing.
8 - Go check the brake fluid reservoir. Ensure you DO NOT LET IT GET DOWN PAST MINIMUM. Should you do so, you may allow air to enter the system, which will cause brake failure. Continually check this throughout your brake fluid flush. I always topped it up to the max line periodically throughout my brake flush.
9 - Repeat for the other corners. I personally noticed when doing the fronts, while the brake bleeding bolt was tightened, I had to ask my assistant to pump the brakes a few times, then hold it down (then I would loosen the bolt).
10 - When you're done, check the brake pedal. It should not feel soft or mushy.
It's fairly easy, just the only precaution is that you don't want to introduce any sort of air into the system.
I feel this is pretty complete, however it is 8AM and I haven't had my coffee yet
The Earl's Solo Bleeders basically replace your assistant and really eliminate the possibility of air entering the line from when you're opening and closing the bleeder valve. Pretty win-win if you ask me!
#7
Moderator
iTrader: (10)
According to a reliable source, I've been told the driver's side rear caliper is the furthest brake line from the master.
Sidenote, I just replaced my rear seized calipers two weekends ago. So if anybody needs info on this, PM me. It is VERY easy and straight-forward though.
Sidenote, I just replaced my rear seized calipers two weekends ago. So if anybody needs info on this, PM me. It is VERY easy and straight-forward though.
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