Brake Light LED on Roof Spoiler for ISX50
11-01-12, 05:09 PM
#18
That's what I was thinking of doing it. I looked into it further and the way the LS has it done is that the LED assembly actually sits in a channel on the LS which lets you run the wife inside the car and sealing it with a grommet.
However since the IS has no such Chanel the only other solution would be to run a small gauge wire and running on the side of the glass along the edge of the glass and the pillar. However doing this would leave the wire exposed to the elements and I would not be happy with that.
However since the IS has no such Chanel the only other solution would be to run a small gauge wire and running on the side of the glass along the edge of the glass and the pillar. However doing this would leave the wire exposed to the elements and I would not be happy with that.
11-11-12, 04:30 PM
#19
Ok. So I was thinking about going a different route. Getting an OEM LS460 rear window spoiler is out of the question since it's expensive for a mod. Even a used spoiler will run $200+...not something I'm willing to spend right now. And getting it sealed and molded into a spoiler seemed to be difficult. But I may tackle this method after I see how this first one goes.
I've decided to mount a red LED bar on the inside of the window, just under lower edge of the window spoiler. Running the wires should be simpler and you don't have to worry about the elements getting at your wires and shorting things out. It should give a similar effect as the LS460 window spoiler.
I bought a red LED bar from SuperbrightLEDs (p/n RLBM-R30SMD). This is with red LEDs and is 24" in length. And I bought the light bar wire that connects to this bar (p/n C21-I36). In the end, I could have skipped buying this wire since I removed the connector on the light bar (see below for the explanation). Both cost around $13 + shipping.
The light bar comes in with approximately 30 LEDs evenly spaced. They're mounted on a white board which I didn't want since I want to make this as invisible as possible in the rear window. So I decided to mask off the face of each LED and use Plastidip to black out the rest of the board. Here's how it looks after the Plastidip coat:
Closeup view. I used regular blue painter's tape to mask off the LEDs. Don't cut the tape too large. If the tape is touching the back board, when you remove the tape, some of the Plastidip will be removed from the board as well. Or you can use a razor blade to make sure the tape separates cleanly from the board.
I desoldered the plastic connector on each end since it's on the front facing the window. I wanted to run the wires on the back just to make it look cleaner when installed. After removing the connector, I soldered the wires in the back and tested with a 12 volt power source to make sure it worked. Then, I used some JB Weld to secure the wire to the back of the board. The last thing you want is the wires pulling out from the board since it wasn't secured. The JB Weld acts as a strain relief.
Excuse the crappy soldering and splatter.
Next step is for me to use 3M acrylic tape (on the face next to several LEDs) to tape the light bar to the window. This way, I can remove it when I want and it shouldn't hurt the tint. This is another reason why I removed the connectors on each end. Without the connectors, I don't have to use a lot of tape to get it on to the window since the overall height is a lot smaller now. Plus, I can get it right below the rear window spoiler and it'll appear to be a part of the spoiler.
Any questions so far?
I've decided to mount a red LED bar on the inside of the window, just under lower edge of the window spoiler. Running the wires should be simpler and you don't have to worry about the elements getting at your wires and shorting things out. It should give a similar effect as the LS460 window spoiler.
I bought a red LED bar from SuperbrightLEDs (p/n RLBM-R30SMD). This is with red LEDs and is 24" in length. And I bought the light bar wire that connects to this bar (p/n C21-I36). In the end, I could have skipped buying this wire since I removed the connector on the light bar (see below for the explanation). Both cost around $13 + shipping.
The light bar comes in with approximately 30 LEDs evenly spaced. They're mounted on a white board which I didn't want since I want to make this as invisible as possible in the rear window. So I decided to mask off the face of each LED and use Plastidip to black out the rest of the board. Here's how it looks after the Plastidip coat:
Closeup view. I used regular blue painter's tape to mask off the LEDs. Don't cut the tape too large. If the tape is touching the back board, when you remove the tape, some of the Plastidip will be removed from the board as well. Or you can use a razor blade to make sure the tape separates cleanly from the board.
I desoldered the plastic connector on each end since it's on the front facing the window. I wanted to run the wires on the back just to make it look cleaner when installed. After removing the connector, I soldered the wires in the back and tested with a 12 volt power source to make sure it worked. Then, I used some JB Weld to secure the wire to the back of the board. The last thing you want is the wires pulling out from the board since it wasn't secured. The JB Weld acts as a strain relief.
Excuse the crappy soldering and splatter.
Next step is for me to use 3M acrylic tape (on the face next to several LEDs) to tape the light bar to the window. This way, I can remove it when I want and it shouldn't hurt the tint. This is another reason why I removed the connectors on each end. Without the connectors, I don't have to use a lot of tape to get it on to the window since the overall height is a lot smaller now. Plus, I can get it right below the rear window spoiler and it'll appear to be a part of the spoiler.
Any questions so far?
11-12-12, 09:33 AM
#23
Ok. So I was thinking about going a different route. Getting an OEM LS460 rear window spoiler is out of the question since it's expensive for a mod. Even a used spoiler will run $200+...not something I'm willing to spend right now. And getting it sealed and molded into a spoiler seemed to be difficult. But I may tackle this method after I see how this first one goes.
I've decided to mount a red LED bar on the inside of the window, just under lower edge of the window spoiler. Running the wires should be simpler and you don't have to worry about the elements getting at your wires and shorting things out. It should give a similar effect as the LS460 window spoiler.
I bought a red LED bar from SuperbrightLEDs (p/n RLBM-R30SMD). This is with red LEDs and is 24" in length. And I bought the light bar wire that connects to this bar (p/n C21-I36). In the end, I could have skipped buying this wire since I removed the connector on the light bar (see below for the explanation). Both cost around $13 + shipping.
The light bar comes in with approximately 30 LEDs evenly spaced. They're mounted on a white board which I didn't want since I want to make this as invisible as possible in the rear window. So I decided to mask off the face of each LED and use Plastidip to black out the rest of the board. Here's how it looks after the Plastidip coat:
Closeup view. I used regular blue painter's tape to mask off the LEDs. Don't cut the tape too large. If the tape is touching the back board, when you remove the tape, some of the Plastidip will be removed from the board as well. Or you can use a razor blade to make sure the tape separates cleanly from the board.
I desoldered the plastic connector on each end since it's on the front facing the window. I wanted to run the wires on the back just to make it look cleaner when installed. After removing the connector, I soldered the wires in the back and tested with a 12 volt power source to make sure it worked. Then, I used some JB Weld to secure the wire to the back of the board. The last thing you want is the wires pulling out from the board since it wasn't secured. The JB Weld acts as a strain relief.
Excuse the crappy soldering and splatter.
Next step is for me to use 3M acrylic tape (on the face next to several LEDs) to tape the light bar to the window. This way, I can remove it when I want and it shouldn't hurt the tint. This is another reason why I removed the connectors on each end. Without the connectors, I don't have to use a lot of tape to get it on to the window since the overall height is a lot smaller now. Plus, I can get it right below the rear window spoiler and it'll appear to be a part of the spoiler.
Any questions so far?
I've decided to mount a red LED bar on the inside of the window, just under lower edge of the window spoiler. Running the wires should be simpler and you don't have to worry about the elements getting at your wires and shorting things out. It should give a similar effect as the LS460 window spoiler.
I bought a red LED bar from SuperbrightLEDs (p/n RLBM-R30SMD). This is with red LEDs and is 24" in length. And I bought the light bar wire that connects to this bar (p/n C21-I36). In the end, I could have skipped buying this wire since I removed the connector on the light bar (see below for the explanation). Both cost around $13 + shipping.
The light bar comes in with approximately 30 LEDs evenly spaced. They're mounted on a white board which I didn't want since I want to make this as invisible as possible in the rear window. So I decided to mask off the face of each LED and use Plastidip to black out the rest of the board. Here's how it looks after the Plastidip coat:
Closeup view. I used regular blue painter's tape to mask off the LEDs. Don't cut the tape too large. If the tape is touching the back board, when you remove the tape, some of the Plastidip will be removed from the board as well. Or you can use a razor blade to make sure the tape separates cleanly from the board.
I desoldered the plastic connector on each end since it's on the front facing the window. I wanted to run the wires on the back just to make it look cleaner when installed. After removing the connector, I soldered the wires in the back and tested with a 12 volt power source to make sure it worked. Then, I used some JB Weld to secure the wire to the back of the board. The last thing you want is the wires pulling out from the board since it wasn't secured. The JB Weld acts as a strain relief.
Excuse the crappy soldering and splatter.
Next step is for me to use 3M acrylic tape (on the face next to several LEDs) to tape the light bar to the window. This way, I can remove it when I want and it shouldn't hurt the tint. This is another reason why I removed the connectors on each end. Without the connectors, I don't have to use a lot of tape to get it on to the window since the overall height is a lot smaller now. Plus, I can get it right below the rear window spoiler and it'll appear to be a part of the spoiler.
Any questions so far?
Great idea
, what are you plans for hiding inside the cabin so it's not an eye sore?
11-12-12, 12:15 PM
#24
I'm going to have to get something made up so that it covers it up. Since this is still a prototype, I'm not too worried about a cover at this stage. Once there's something that works and looks good, then I'll decide about the cover.
But putting it on the window last night, I realized that this light bar is too straight and doesn't follow the contour of the spoiler. I guess I wanted something that would look like it was integrated into the spoiler. Having a straight light bar below a curved spoiler edge would look funny, I think.
But I'm going to wire it up anyway and take pics. Then you all can decide, as well as myself.
But putting it on the window last night, I realized that this light bar is too straight and doesn't follow the contour of the spoiler. I guess I wanted something that would look like it was integrated into the spoiler. Having a straight light bar below a curved spoiler edge would look funny, I think.
But I'm going to wire it up anyway and take pics. Then you all can decide, as well as myself.
12-05-12, 11:37 PM
#30
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