Just signed up for my first track event
10-22-12, 07:50 AM
#1
Just signed up for my first track event (UPDATE: Pics and vids in post #34)
I posted this thread on the Car Chat forum, but then I realized there are some IS-specific questions I was hoping some of my friends here at the 2IS forum could answer. Mods, hopefully you won't mind, but if the cross-post is a problem, please just lock this and leave the other thread.
My car has over six years and 67K miles on it, and I've been wanting to track it since around two years and 20K... Finally happening. It's a performance driving course with eight 25-minute track sessions.
Anyone have any tips for me? Especially car maintenance tips. Should I expect my tires (only 4-5K miles on all four) to be shot by the end of this? I'm thinking I'm probably going to go there with mostly factory components as far as brakes, coolant, oil, etc go. Speaking of brakes, I think my rotors are probably within about .4mm (~15%) of needing replacement. I hear this track (Motorsport Ranch here in North Texas) isn't too hard on brakes, though. I'm also really hoping to get the F-Sport sway bars installed before I do it, too. At least the rear.
My 2IS-specific questions: Have any fellow IS350 owners tracked their cars? Anything you think I should know about? Were the factory low-dust pads able to hold up? Or should I invest in some race pads? What about brake fluid? As you can see, the brakes are what I'm most concerned about.
(It'll be the long version, ~3.1 miles)
My car has over six years and 67K miles on it, and I've been wanting to track it since around two years and 20K... Finally happening. It's a performance driving course with eight 25-minute track sessions.
Anyone have any tips for me? Especially car maintenance tips. Should I expect my tires (only 4-5K miles on all four) to be shot by the end of this? I'm thinking I'm probably going to go there with mostly factory components as far as brakes, coolant, oil, etc go. Speaking of brakes, I think my rotors are probably within about .4mm (~15%) of needing replacement. I hear this track (Motorsport Ranch here in North Texas) isn't too hard on brakes, though. I'm also really hoping to get the F-Sport sway bars installed before I do it, too. At least the rear.
My 2IS-specific questions: Have any fellow IS350 owners tracked their cars? Anything you think I should know about? Were the factory low-dust pads able to hold up? Or should I invest in some race pads? What about brake fluid? As you can see, the brakes are what I'm most concerned about.
(It'll be the long version, ~3.1 miles)
Last edited by RocketGuy3; 12-11-12 at 09:12 AM.
10-22-12, 09:06 AM
#2
My advice: Do NOT take your daily driver to the track. The car will not feel the same again.
If you are still going, several things to do:
-Change pads for track purpose , e.g. EBC Yellow stuff (Not racing pads, it is noisy and overkill). Your factory pads, most likely, will not hold up.
-Stock brake fluid is fine. For now.
-Use current rotors if they are still good. Autozone rotors are fine.
-Torque the bolts after each session.
-Monitor tire pressure.
-Enjoy the fun!
After
-Flush brake fluid (Consider ATE Super blue or Motul 600 if you decide to comeback) b/c it will be boiled during track session.
If you are still going, several things to do:
-Change pads for track purpose , e.g. EBC Yellow stuff (Not racing pads, it is noisy and overkill). Your factory pads, most likely, will not hold up.
-Stock brake fluid is fine. For now.
-Use current rotors if they are still good. Autozone rotors are fine.
-Torque the bolts after each session.
-Monitor tire pressure.
-Enjoy the fun!
After
-Flush brake fluid (Consider ATE Super blue or Motul 600 if you decide to comeback) b/c it will be boiled during track session.
Last edited by prankster; 10-22-12 at 09:35 AM.
My tires ended up damn near melting i was running so hard though, andddd i blew a shock (back when i was dropped on springs).
10-22-12, 11:08 AM
#4
My advice: Do NOT take your daily driver to the track. The car will not feel the same again.
If you are still going, several things to do:
-Change pads for track purpose , e.g. EBC Yellow stuff (Not racing pads, it is noisy and overkill). Your factory pads, most likely, will not hold up.
-Stock brake fluid is fine. For now.
-Use current rotors if they are still good. Autozone rotors are fine.
-Torque the bolts after each session.
-Monitor tire pressure.
-Enjoy the fun!
After
-Flush brake fluid (Consider ATE Super blue or Motul 600 if you decide to comeback) b/c it will be boiled during track session.
If you are still going, several things to do:
-Change pads for track purpose , e.g. EBC Yellow stuff (Not racing pads, it is noisy and overkill). Your factory pads, most likely, will not hold up.
-Stock brake fluid is fine. For now.
-Use current rotors if they are still good. Autozone rotors are fine.
-Torque the bolts after each session.
-Monitor tire pressure.
-Enjoy the fun!
After
-Flush brake fluid (Consider ATE Super blue or Motul 600 if you decide to comeback) b/c it will be boiled during track session.
My rotors have about .4mm left of the 3mm life, so they're technically still "good", but I worry that they might not have too much heat capacity.
10-22-12, 12:24 PM
#6
So everyone thinks pads are a good idea, eh...? Hmmm... gonna be kinda a pain to change those out, but maybe I should. Anyone have more pad recommendations/links?
As for the helmet, I don't have one. Was planning on renting one of theirs.
As for the helmet, I don't have one. Was planning on renting one of theirs.
10-22-12, 01:53 PM
#7
I agree with the tires.
Try to get 2 sets of wheels/tires if possible....
1 set with sticky component and light weight wheels for racing. and the other for daily driving.
If you can't afford to do that... definitely get better tires. It's the single mod that can really help you when you are a beginner. It's all worthless if you can't get any traction... Tires are what touches the road: it moves the car, keep the cars on the road in corners, and what stops the car.
Try to get 2 sets of wheels/tires if possible....
1 set with sticky component and light weight wheels for racing. and the other for daily driving.
If you can't afford to do that... definitely get better tires. It's the single mod that can really help you when you are a beginner. It's all worthless if you can't get any traction... Tires are what touches the road: it moves the car, keep the cars on the road in corners, and what stops the car.
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10-22-12, 11:02 PM
#9
IS350HKS, I have aftermarket rims. They're similar size to stock (.5" wider both front and rear), but they are offset 3 mm narrower up front (+48) and 19mm wider in the rear (+31). Also, do you have the low-dust pads on your car? Were you on a course that was heavy on the brakes?
As for my tires, I don't think that's going to be practical or necessary at this point. My rear tires are max performance summers (Dunlop SP Sport Maxx GTs, which are supposed to be VERY grippy in dry weather). My fronts are UHP all-seasons, but they have been giving me very good performance on the street thus far. If they cause me to understeer a bit, so be it. It's my first time out, I'm not going to be going 10/10ths. Incidentally, I've actually heard that it can be detrimental for beginners to have overly grippy tires because you don't learn as much. Plus, if my front tires lose grip a little more easily, it might also save me some brake wear (ABS will kick in sooner).
As for my tires, I don't think that's going to be practical or necessary at this point. My rear tires are max performance summers (Dunlop SP Sport Maxx GTs, which are supposed to be VERY grippy in dry weather). My fronts are UHP all-seasons, but they have been giving me very good performance on the street thus far. If they cause me to understeer a bit, so be it. It's my first time out, I'm not going to be going 10/10ths. Incidentally, I've actually heard that it can be detrimental for beginners to have overly grippy tires because you don't learn as much. Plus, if my front tires lose grip a little more easily, it might also save me some brake wear (ABS will kick in sooner).
10-23-12, 07:20 AM
#10
Every track event I have gone to, they inspect your vehicle before...paying close attention to brake pad life and tire tread depth. If your tires are almost gone now, either they might not let you on the track or you will definitely wear them completely out after your first couple of sessions, especially the inner edges of the front tires.
For your first time out, you probably don't need anything special. Just take all loose items out of the interior, have all your windows rolled down, wear long pants and closed toe shoes, and make sure you bring sunscreen and drink plenty of water. Don't forget a GoPro either...
For your first time out, you probably don't need anything special. Just take all loose items out of the interior, have all your windows rolled down, wear long pants and closed toe shoes, and make sure you bring sunscreen and drink plenty of water. Don't forget a GoPro either...
10-23-12, 12:36 PM
#12
bring a few wheel chocks or something that'll stop the car from rolling.
when you bring your 2is in from a few hot laps, you'll want to avoid putting the car in park and/or engaging the parking brake. it'll be tough to do, since 1. it's instinctual to put your 2is in park when you pull in to park, and 2. your adrenaline will be working overtime from the hot-laps. however, you'll just have to find some way to remind yourself to leave your 2is in N, apply the wheel chocks, and let the discs/pads cool down so you don't end up seizing your pads to the rotors.
just don't forget to remove the wheel chocks when you go back out, or put your 2is in P after the rotors/pads cool.
other than that, i think everyone else has offered suggestions worth considering.
when you bring your 2is in from a few hot laps, you'll want to avoid putting the car in park and/or engaging the parking brake. it'll be tough to do, since 1. it's instinctual to put your 2is in park when you pull in to park, and 2. your adrenaline will be working overtime from the hot-laps. however, you'll just have to find some way to remind yourself to leave your 2is in N, apply the wheel chocks, and let the discs/pads cool down so you don't end up seizing your pads to the rotors.
just don't forget to remove the wheel chocks when you go back out, or put your 2is in P after the rotors/pads cool.
other than that, i think everyone else has offered suggestions worth considering.
Last edited by projectdna; 10-23-12 at 12:39 PM.
10-23-12, 01:53 PM
#13
My best advice for you is to drive with your current setup. Then upgrade whatever you feel necessary (should you choose to come back with the same car). Don't be the guy with a lot of "upgrades" but don't know how to drive on the track. Don't buy new tires unless safety is becoming a concern.
Track purpose brake pads are necessary. I've seen too many daily drivers with stock pads went off track (G35s, 37s, IS350s, C330s). Trust me, when that happens to you, it will ruin your day.
Another advice, there will be a lot of miatas (spec racers + enthusiasts) out there. Learn their lines. But DO NOT follow their speed, especially at the corners. Have fun!
Track purpose brake pads are necessary. I've seen too many daily drivers with stock pads went off track (G35s, 37s, IS350s, C330s). Trust me, when that happens to you, it will ruin your day.
Another advice, there will be a lot of miatas (spec racers + enthusiasts) out there. Learn their lines. But DO NOT follow their speed, especially at the corners. Have fun!
10-23-12, 01:59 PM
#14
Hmmm... iiinteresting. That's the first time I've heard anyone suggest not using my regular daily driver. Incidentally, the next time I go to the track, I probably won't be taking my DD. I want to get a C7 within a year or two, but I wanted to get some experience with a less powerful and easier to tame car first.
My rotors have about .4mm left of the 3mm life, so they're technically still "good", but I worry that they might not have too much heat capacity.
My rotors have about .4mm left of the 3mm life, so they're technically still "good", but I worry that they might not have too much heat capacity.
Btw, you meant C6 right? C7 is not even on sale yet.