Air suspension/electrical help needed
#1
Air suspension/electrical help needed
I'm running KSport pro plus air suspension and starting last Monday, a main fuse for the suspension keeps blowing. Its been installed for a little over a month, without any problems until now.
Info:
Two power wires from the battery go to the main box in the trunk that holds the valves. Each power wire controls one of the compressors also. Both power lines have an inline fuse, and the same one keeps blowing. I can replace the fuse and the system will work like normal, except there is also an air leak now (100psi an hour loss, started when this electrical problem started), and when the compressors kick on, shortly after the fuse will blow and will leave one compressor to fill the tank and the system will be helpless (the same power line that fails controls one compressor and the valves). Regardless if the fuses are good, the system leaks now.
What I've tested/checked:
All air lines in the trunk have been checked (to/from air tank, from valve box to corners, air lines under the car, only fitting at the bag haven't been checked). Power lines have been checked from battery back to the trunk, including all wiring in the trunk for everything. All fuses throughout the system are good (after replacing the blown one every time I drive).
Hypothesis of what's wrong:
Since the system will work entirely at times, I don't believe it has a short in the system, since a short would instantly blow the fuse. I believe the compressor is over drawing the system, BUT the major air leak I believe has to be in the red metal cube that houses the KSport valves. I can not open the red cube due to it likely voiding the warranty though.
Any thoughts or recommendations on what to try? Any help is GREATLY appreciated! I'm so tired of waiting 5 minutes for my tank to air up when I try to drive anywhere and then have to swap a new fuse too...
Info:
Two power wires from the battery go to the main box in the trunk that holds the valves. Each power wire controls one of the compressors also. Both power lines have an inline fuse, and the same one keeps blowing. I can replace the fuse and the system will work like normal, except there is also an air leak now (100psi an hour loss, started when this electrical problem started), and when the compressors kick on, shortly after the fuse will blow and will leave one compressor to fill the tank and the system will be helpless (the same power line that fails controls one compressor and the valves). Regardless if the fuses are good, the system leaks now.
What I've tested/checked:
All air lines in the trunk have been checked (to/from air tank, from valve box to corners, air lines under the car, only fitting at the bag haven't been checked). Power lines have been checked from battery back to the trunk, including all wiring in the trunk for everything. All fuses throughout the system are good (after replacing the blown one every time I drive).
Hypothesis of what's wrong:
Since the system will work entirely at times, I don't believe it has a short in the system, since a short would instantly blow the fuse. I believe the compressor is over drawing the system, BUT the major air leak I believe has to be in the red metal cube that houses the KSport valves. I can not open the red cube due to it likely voiding the warranty though.
Any thoughts or recommendations on what to try? Any help is GREATLY appreciated! I'm so tired of waiting 5 minutes for my tank to air up when I try to drive anywhere and then have to swap a new fuse too...
#4
Pole Position
iTrader: (15)
What is losing air? Your airbags, or your tank? As for your compressor check and make sure that all the grounds and power lines are well grounded and not loose. Be careful with letting one compressor run. Those compressors are strong but they'll overheat pretty quickly, especially with a leak. Another question, are the wires you used the right gauge that KSport recommends or did they provide it? Make sure you use teflon on all of your fittings. To test for leaks use a spray bottle with water and soap and spray them on your fittings, if there is a leak, you'll see bubbles form.
#5
I can't find the air leak, and it i inconsistent on how much it loses per hour. (Sometimes as much as 30psi an hour and other times its 100psi). It worked flawlessly before this. The tank fitting and all lines coming out of the master box aren't leaking and I have not checked at the bags because the whole system loses air, not an individual corner. I still believe the problem is in the master valve box that I can not open, so just waiting to call ksport tomorrow.
The wires were provided with the kit and I haven't been able to rip it all out to check the negative wires/grounds but I'm reluctant to do this since its leaking air (again I think the box houses the main electrical problem and valve is leaking maybe? Not sure how they work completely.)
The wires were provided with the kit and I haven't been able to rip it all out to check the negative wires/grounds but I'm reluctant to do this since its leaking air (again I think the box houses the main electrical problem and valve is leaking maybe? Not sure how they work completely.)
Last edited by heyarms; 10-08-12 at 05:25 AM. Reason: iPhone grammar corrected :p
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#8
I can't find the air leak, and it i inconsistent on how much it loses per hour. (Sometimes as much as 30psi an hour and other times its 100psi). It worked flawlessly before this. The tank fitting and all lines coming out of the master box aren't leaking and I have not checked at the bags because the whole system loses air, not an individual corner. I still believe the problem is in the master valve box that I can not open, so just waiting to call ksport tomorrow.
The wires were provided with the kit and I haven't been able to rip it all out to check the negative wires/grounds but I'm reluctant to do this since its leaking air (again I think the box houses the main electrical problem and valve is leaking maybe? Not sure how they work completely.)
The wires were provided with the kit and I haven't been able to rip it all out to check the negative wires/grounds but I'm reluctant to do this since its leaking air (again I think the box houses the main electrical problem and valve is leaking maybe? Not sure how they work completely.)
-Jade
#10
It was a combination of things.
My installers used 12 gauge (thin) wiring. This caused xthe compressor to overheat quickly and melt the inline check valve on the compressor (causing the leak) and also blowing the fuse.
I reinstalled it all yesterday with proper thick gauge wiring (8 gauge) and all is well.
Hid the red valve box in the spare well, compressors on my sub box, and no where to hide that 5 gallon tank haha might switch to two 3 gallon tanks some day
My installers used 12 gauge (thin) wiring. This caused xthe compressor to overheat quickly and melt the inline check valve on the compressor (causing the leak) and also blowing the fuse.
I reinstalled it all yesterday with proper thick gauge wiring (8 gauge) and all is well.
Hid the red valve box in the spare well, compressors on my sub box, and no where to hide that 5 gallon tank haha might switch to two 3 gallon tanks some day
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