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IS250 Carbon Build up CSP

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Old 08-07-14, 08:51 AM   #961
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Originally Posted by sm1ke View Post
Without enough incidents, its a lot harder to make a case. You said it yourself, the US market moves the higher volume, which means more cases of the carbon build-up arise. More cases means a stronger argument in a lawsuit, which is why legal action is taken more often in the US.

In Canada there are simply too few cases of the carbon build-up.
Yes, we are far less litigious here. =)

I just had my GS approved for the similar service to this (piston rings, valves), going in for the repair soon. I'm in Toronto.

I guess if they find cylinder walls in bad shape it adds a few days to the repair time because then they have to order more stuff... I expect that it is pretty rare that they replace short blocks but I certainly wouldn't mind them going the distance.
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Old 08-07-14, 09:31 AM   #962
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Originally Posted by BinaryJay View Post
Yes, we are far less litigious here. =)

I just had my GS approved for the similar service to this (piston rings, valves), going in for the repair soon. I'm in Toronto.

I guess if they find cylinder walls in bad shape it adds a few days to the repair time because then they have to order more stuff... I expect that it is pretty rare that they replace short blocks but I certainly wouldn't mind them going the distance.
They'll likely hone the walls. So it's off to a machine shop to do that work.
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Old 08-07-14, 12:13 PM   #963
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They'll likely hone the walls. So it's off to a machine shop to do that work.
Actually... TSB:

B. Thoroughly clean and decarbonize the pistons and engine block cylinder bores.
NOTE
Engine block components (i.e., piston pin bushing, connecting rod bearings, etc.) found to be outside of Repair Manual specification as per the Inspection Procedure should be replaced as necessary.

HINT
If necessary, sublet specialized and precision operations to a local engine machining shop.

C. Inspect the cylinder bore for abnormal damage.
Visually check the cylinder bore for the presence of crosshatch.
^ If the cylinder bore has visible crosshatch, the cylinder block is OK to re-use.
^ Confirm that only light vertical marks are present, if any.

NOTE
^ It is normal for an in-service block to have light markings present from carbon and should not be interpreted as excessive cylinder wall scratches.
^ ONLY replace the short block if multiple, severe scratches are present.
^ Do NOT hone the cylinder walls.
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Old 08-09-14, 08:48 AM   #964
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I have a 2007 IS250 and the "VSC CHECK ENGINE LIGHT" came on few days ago. But I don't feel any misfires. Should I have the codes read first or just bring this P.O.S. to the dealer (Lexus of Edison)
TIA
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Old 08-09-14, 07:28 PM   #965
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I have a 2007 IS250 and the "VSC CHECK ENGINE LIGHT" came on few days ago. But I don't feel any misfires. Should I have the codes read first or just bring this P.O.S. to the dealer (Lexus of Edison)
TIA
Could be anything just read the codes, if you don't have a scanner get a BT dongle and Torque or a cheap standalone scanner - I don't know why anybody would own a car and not have the ability to at least rudimentary read and clear codes. Taking it to Lexus will just result in an automatic half hour of labor, totally wasted money if it turns out to be something stupid.
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Old 08-12-14, 05:53 AM   #966
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Well, I went to AUTOZONE and they found this codes stored PO051 and C1201. This should be cover by the emission warranty?
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Old 09-10-14, 07:28 AM   #967
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From my experience, the repairs has helped with the rpm issue. The car is more responsive from a stop and I haven't experienced the rough idles/bogging issues. The one downfall I have been experiencing is lower mpg's. Nothing too drastic, but noticeable (25 to 24). I had my repair done a month ago.
This. Car is much more responsive and feels about 20% more powerful. I get about 1-2mpg less average though. No idle issues now. Been 16k miles.
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Old 09-15-14, 02:59 PM   #968
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Over the past 3-4 months I've had an issue with very hard/vibrating starts where it sounds like extremely low oil pressure. It's a harsh sound with vibration and only last a second or two. It has been happening more and more frequently lately to where in the last 3 weeks, the car won't even start on first (sometimes second) attempt. Then when it finally does start it's the vibration/clanking sound. I don't seem to have any issues with vibration when idle but given how frequent the rough starts (and no starts) have been I've become very concerned.

I took it to the dealership today (where it had another hard start on my drive there) and mentioned the CSP related to engine misfires and just got a call from the dealership that everyone checked out okay. I told him that it happened today and generally happens on a cold start. He said they would hold the car overnight and start it in the morning to see if anything comes up. I know it's a bit premature but I'm fearful I will get a call tomorrow with the same explanation.

From reading nearly this entire thread I've gathered that my best recourse would be to try and call lexus corporate; however, I wanted to run this by everyone to A) get comfort that this is likely the issue and B) that this is the best course of action. I'm not really sure what else I can say to the dealer when they tell me every checks out fine as within specified manufacturing settings.

I bought the car about a year ago with 82k miles and now it has around 86.5k. I got the maintenance history from the lexus website and it doesn't sound as though the CSP repair was done before but may have been checked out?

Really appreciate any insights.


Click the image to open in full size.

********************UPDATE****************

I just got another call back and they said the problem is the cam shaft and is related to TSIB BRIEF ENGINE KNOCK/RATTLE NOISE AT COLD STARTUP. She said I'm out of warranty and cost would be around $2-2.5k. I explained the CSP related to the engine misfire and she said it has nothing to do with that. Does this sound right??

Last edited by bigeasy043; 09-15-14 at 03:28 PM..
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Old 09-15-14, 09:54 PM   #969
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Originally Posted by bigeasy043 View Post
Over the past 3-4 months I've had an issue with very hard/vibrating starts where it sounds like extremely low oil pressure. It's a harsh sound with vibration and only last a second or two. It has been happening more and more frequently lately to where in the last 3 weeks, the car won't even start on first (sometimes second) attempt. Then when it finally does start it's the vibration/clanking sound. I don't seem to have any issues with vibration when idle but given how frequent the rough starts (and no starts) have been I've become very concerned.

I took it to the dealership today (where it had another hard start on my drive there) and mentioned the CSP related to engine misfires and just got a call from the dealership that everyone checked out okay. I told him that it happened today and generally happens on a cold start. He said they would hold the car overnight and start it in the morning to see if anything comes up. I know it's a bit premature but I'm fearful I will get a call tomorrow with the same explanation.

From reading nearly this entire thread I've gathered that my best recourse would be to try and call lexus corporate; however, I wanted to run this by everyone to A) get comfort that this is likely the issue and B) that this is the best course of action. I'm not really sure what else I can say to the dealer when they tell me every checks out fine as within specified manufacturing settings.

I bought the car about a year ago with 82k miles and now it has around 86.5k. I got the maintenance history from the lexus website and it doesn't sound as though the CSP repair was done before but may have been checked out?

Really appreciate any insights.


Click the image to open in full size.

********************UPDATE****************

I just got another call back and they said the problem is the cam shaft and is related to TSIB BRIEF ENGINE KNOCK/RATTLE NOISE AT COLD STARTUP. She said I'm out of warranty and cost would be around $2-2.5k. I explained the CSP related to the engine misfire and she said it has nothing to do with that. Does this sound right??
The sound like putting a cell phone in a blender for a couple of seconds after the car has been sitting for a long time is what they told you it is. The GS also does it, and while I was having the rings done on my GS the new camry (!) loaner they gave me to drive also did it. They would have done the TSB for the VVTi gear noise at the same time without adding labor but the cost of the gear sets alone was like $1200 so I said forget it (it isn't harmful to the car, and it only does it infrequently, and it seems like changing oils helps)... it's not worth that kind of money just for a ghetto sound once every few weeks. Of course my car never made that sound one bit until it was out of warranty.

Go get the oil changed, I think the noise is worse when the oil level is a bit low... if you're using synthetic, I found that synthetic oil makes it happen more often as well. In fact, I have not heard it happen at all since I got the ring job done and they flushed my almost brand new amsoil down the drain and replaced it with their standard dino stuff. I'm thinking I'm just going to stick to regular OCI with cheap oil from now on if that noise never returns when skipping the princess oil changes.
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Last edited by BinaryJay; 09-15-14 at 09:57 PM..
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Old 09-26-14, 08:44 PM   #970
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ok. to the point 1. you must have an 06- GS or 06-09 IS and certain 2010 IS models.
2. you must let them know your car misfires. (characterized by vibrating, shuddering or shaking, and in a bad scenario...... limp mode(check engine light flashing)which is your car misfiring so bad the computer down grades your ability to put the pedal to the metal as a fail safe to save your Cats)
3. Lexus performs a duplication process and advises you if your a pass or fail.
from what I've seen, the csp(customer support program) covers 9yrs from your purchase date regardless of mileage. ask your dealer if these engine repairs are a regular at their shop. they might not know how many are done, but they do know if it's a regular occurrence at their shop.

if you want to perform the duplication test yourself : 1. warm engine until temp gauge reads approx. center between cold and hot.
2. rev engine to 4000 rpm for 30 sec
3 immediately as you get to 30 sec, rev the **** out of it to 6000 rpm very quickly and immediately release gas pedal.
4 let come back to idle and if misfires are present you will know by the unmistakable shaking/shuddering. you may not get misfires the first time around either or codes, but the dealer near my house sometimes keeps the cars overnight to try what they described as a cold soak.
Bonus: 06 GS & IS owners get new top engine parts also, like valve springs ect. the key is finding the dealer that knows this repair from paper work to repair. good luck all... oh yeah last bonus. have your water pump checked for leaks..... you shouldn't pay any labor when having it replaced which is usually 3 hours.
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