ezbmr

I can keep my car til Feb, but it won't smog and I have had the car a long time. I have been ruminating over many cars. Haven't driven many, most of the ones I liked were at least 50 miles away. There was a beautiful blue Kia Optima Turbo that sold fast, never drove it anyway, but it was 13k for a 2013. Tempting at the price. Drove a 09 GS350 owner was asking 11500 w 140k wasn't in love with the owner, pretty clean car, but I didn't want something so big.

Now there are two cars in basically the same area. One a 2010 Dark Blue IS350 100k miles asking 16k, the other a 2014 Lexus Dark Grey IS350 with 20k miles for 22,500. I figure they are about equally equipped, except for the miles and years. The 2014, I have already seen the Carfax, supposedly the 2010 is clean as well. I figure I can probably get the 2010 for 15k and the 2014 for 22k. If I get the 2010, I would pay cash and perhaps finance when in my possession, the 2014, I would see about them financing me, I figure 4500 down and under 325 for 60 months.


Strange enough, the dealer gives you the Carfax and Autocheck. The Carfax says the car is fine, but the Autocheck says that it has frame damage (2014) WTF. Yet the Autocheck report says that the car has 22,000 miles and had a accident in Georgia and Carfax says it was registered in CA. I live in CA I might have to run away from this one. Thought it was too good to be true.

Please share thoughts on both. I figure you guys are the experts. It is hard to let go of something you know and don't have to spend on, but the car has to be registered in March. I don't think either of these cars will last with their current owners.

MikeyK02

iTrader: (7)

You need to spend the money on a PPI at an independent shop. Of you trust carfax or any of thise sites 100%...you're bound to get burned

Also, expand your radius. Ive travelled for many of cars, that are in better condition that both you described for less money.

MikeyK02

iTrader: (7)

Also..look private

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lexus-vehicles-classifieds/801481-2006-lexus-is350-blue-loaded-93k.html

ezbmr

I probably should get a PPI. The carfax report and dealer say 20k miles on the car. The autocheck report says that it has 22k on it. How hard is it to change the odometer on a Lexus.
Is there a warning on the dash, like the manipulation dot on a BMW?

Tungstn-IS

That would be one hell of a deal, which would have me very suspicious of underlying issues. Good, low mileage 2014's go for mid 30's to low 40's

bbaugher47

The registration in CA could have been due the car possibly a lease. Theyre often registered in a different state. My highlander is registered else where as well. Dont fall for any funny business.

ezbmr

I want it to be good and true. I keep thinking if it was in GA, why would it be sent back to CA, that is quite the distance to send a car. The mileage on the Autocheck is wrong, makes me wonder if it is a bad report. I want to believe that someone with a similar car in GA made an error with the vin.

Looking at other cars on their site, I am thinking they are getting accident cars with clean titles at auction, which might not be too bad, esp if I can get it for close to 10k less than it should be. I am almost thinking of a Cadillac ATS 2.0 TT 18k with 37k

Can I go to a Lexus Dealership and ask for a report if I provide them the Vin? Will they give me some vital info without being the owner?

Aspect

I'm pretty sure you can tell if the car has been in an auction through the carfax history. Usually if a deal is too good to be true it usually is. Best to get it checked thoroughly in a PPI, and if it has actually been in an accident then you have a little more negotiating power on your end if you do decide to go for it. I don't believe Lexus collects information like that found on a CarFax report - at best you might be able to get the maintenance history if they did perform all maintenance at the dealer

Zmon

iTrader: (2)

Going to +1 this, most likely a salvage car that was repaired, or something else is going on. I was looking at 14's the other day, and the cheapest 350 F-Sport I found had 50k miles and was about 26k. You sure it's not a 250 or something they screwed up listing?

Of course the 14 is the nicer car, but I wouldn't gamble that money on something that potentially has issues. If you really want a 14, I'd spend some extra money for something actually legit. You'll be stuck with more miles though, most likely. Still better than the 10 with 100k miles at least.

ezbmr

Is the 10 so bad. I have 220k on my BMW, with some recently neglected maintenance. I would think that 100k + is easy with this 2010. I am really wary about this 2014. Both reports didn't say salvaged. The Car Fax one even said buyback guarantee. The Auto Check, would not provide buyback on this car.

Zmon

iTrader: (2)

Let me rephrase that, I didn't mean to imply the 10 was bad. You were clearly looking at 3IS's, so I assumed you'd prefer the 3IS over the 2IS. Nothing wrong with the 10. Why don't you try to find an 11? You'll get the refreshed front end and the LED headlights (assuming it has the HID option). But again, if you're not comfortable spending any more, then go for the 10. Don't be afraid to look outside where you live though, always better deals to be had if you're willing to travel.

ezbmr

Well I am being told that the 2014 isn't available yet, still traveling to get there. I can see it sometime next week. I was hoping to kill two birds and see both of them tomorrow. I like both cars. I like the slightly more room, new interior, 8 speed auto, and folding mirrors of the new one. I figure that I can get the 2010 for 15, it sounds like a good car. If and when I look at the other one, I am thinking of having it looked at by a body shop. First it would have to get through my inspection, then if I like it, body shop and negotiation. I get the feeling they will fight me tooth and nail, but we will see. There is a 2012 in San Diego at a BMW dealer, I have been highest bidder, but reserve wasn't met. I don't want to pay as much for a 2012 as I would for a 2014. The guy I spoke to at the dealer claimed it was a California car and didn't know why the AutoCheck would come out like that. I have seen an interesting lease deal on a new IS200, but I would need more miles, I have never leased, but it is a thought.

How difficult would it be to manipulate the odometer?

ezbmr

The car just got to their dealership on Friday. I could see it as soon as Monday. I found a 2010 IS350 with fake Fsport. I know that the center of the seats on a real 2010 should be suede or Alcantara, this is a factory std seat. I don't care, the price is good. Whoever owned it put on the LED front lights and cross drilled rotors. I am going to contact the dealer and find out more. I must make sure it isn't salvaged. It probably is. It is so far away, I would pay 1g just to get it here, but if it checks out, I might get it. Of course I will try to see the 2014 this week. The 2010 has 120k on it, but it is only 12k It doesn't have Mark Levinson but it has everything else. Who knows, it might even have some upgraded shocks. I expect to get something soon. I want and need to replace my car.

MWIS350

Go with 3IS better interior, suspension.

ezbmr

So they finally got the car. 9 maybe 10 days after they advertised it. Then bam, they raise the price by 5k and delete the report that shows the accident. Only the car fax remains. I called about a 2010, and they told me they already have a deposit on it. There is one car left, but the person hasn't given me their number, or anything that would make me feel comfortable, like the vin, a copy of the carfax report. They do say that it has had all of the work it has needed. They have brought the car down to 14,500. It might be worth it. It is a pretty standard dark blue. Doesn't even look like it has tinting.

There are a couple of cars that tickle my imagination. There is a Merc CLS550 for 14 and a Jaguar XF Supercharged for 11. But those don't feel like rational choices.