Poor IS250 Needs Help
11-23-11, 10:08 AM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
Poor IS250 Needs Help
After my second visit today to my local Lexus Dealership about this squeaking noise I kept hearing, they found out that my Front Passenger Side Hub Bearing needs to be replaced (43550-30020) It was caused from pothole 
which caused the Hub Bearings to bend. While my car was on the lift they showed me with the wheel on and they spun it and you can see the wheel wobbles. That hub being bent caused the calipers to rub against the discs which made that squeaking noise i kept hearing. Also my 2 rims on the passenger side is slightly bent on the inner side due to this pothole. It was nothing major just very slightly so Ill see after I replace this Hub Bearing to see if I can feel the vibration or anything. Well for now I just want to know if a Hub Bearing is a installation that I can do at home? Iv been looking at a DIY on the RX350 it seem like you need a shop tool, but I'm not sure. If you guys can help me out, I would appreciate it. Lexus wanted 344.54$ for the Hub Bearing and 250.00 for Labor. When I can buy the Hub for 252.70$ and lets see if I can save some money for installation. So Sad
which caused the Hub Bearings to bend. While my car was on the lift they showed me with the wheel on and they spun it and you can see the wheel wobbles. That hub being bent caused the calipers to rub against the discs which made that squeaking noise i kept hearing. Also my 2 rims on the passenger side is slightly bent on the inner side due to this pothole. It was nothing major just very slightly so Ill see after I replace this Hub Bearing to see if I can feel the vibration or anything. Well for now I just want to know if a Hub Bearing is a installation that I can do at home? Iv been looking at a DIY on the RX350 it seem like you need a shop tool, but I'm not sure. If you guys can help me out, I would appreciate it. Lexus wanted 344.54$ for the Hub Bearing and 250.00 for Labor. When I can buy the Hub for 252.70$ and lets see if I can save some money for installation. So Sad
11-23-11, 10:20 AM
#4
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I agree with projectdna. If you have done it before or are mechanically inclined its not to hard (i've done a few on other cars in the past) but if not i would have it done by a pro.
11-23-11, 11:59 AM
#7
Replacing the front wheel hubs is very easy. If you can change brakes this is a lot easier!
There are four bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle, there's no way to physically change the bearings alone so you have to purchase a whole new hub. Some places online sell them for as cheap as $216. Authentic Lexus parts too.
You just have to remove the caliper by removing the two bolts that hold it in place, place it on a wire hanger through one of the caliper bolt holes dangling from the control arm up top. Remove the rotor and behind the knuckle are the four bolts. Make sure the car is lifted on jack stands on the front only so you can easily turn the steering wheel to access the bolts much easier.
Use a breaker bar if you must, but these bolts are only tightened down to 51ft lbs which shouldn't be that hard to loosen.
Remove the speed sensor wire from the hub by placing a flat head screw driver under the tab pushing it up to release it then just pull it. After you remove the four bolts just wiggle the hub out if it's not rusted if it is just place the rotor back on with two lug nuts and yank it a few times it should come out. Then installing is reverse.
A few notes when installing again use some Loctite, blue 242 is fine (comes with red from factory) don't use red because there are different grades. Spread it on the threads towards the bottom. Then put the bolts in by hand and torque to spec 51ft lbs, do it in an X pattern top left, lower right, lower left, top right. Then a bit of blue Loctite on the caliper bolts, and torque to 58ft lbs.
There are four bolts that hold the hub to the knuckle, there's no way to physically change the bearings alone so you have to purchase a whole new hub. Some places online sell them for as cheap as $216. Authentic Lexus parts too.
You just have to remove the caliper by removing the two bolts that hold it in place, place it on a wire hanger through one of the caliper bolt holes dangling from the control arm up top. Remove the rotor and behind the knuckle are the four bolts. Make sure the car is lifted on jack stands on the front only so you can easily turn the steering wheel to access the bolts much easier.
Use a breaker bar if you must, but these bolts are only tightened down to 51ft lbs which shouldn't be that hard to loosen.
Remove the speed sensor wire from the hub by placing a flat head screw driver under the tab pushing it up to release it then just pull it. After you remove the four bolts just wiggle the hub out if it's not rusted if it is just place the rotor back on with two lug nuts and yank it a few times it should come out. Then installing is reverse.
A few notes when installing again use some Loctite, blue 242 is fine (comes with red from factory) don't use red because there are different grades. Spread it on the threads towards the bottom. Then put the bolts in by hand and torque to spec 51ft lbs, do it in an X pattern top left, lower right, lower left, top right. Then a bit of blue Loctite on the caliper bolts, and torque to 58ft lbs.
Last edited by XhyDra; 11-23-11 at 12:03 PM.
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11-23-11, 12:25 PM
#8
Driver
Thread Starter
Wow, thanks for everybody's feedbacks and inputs! I have done a little research and viewed a few youtube videos of the basic fundamentals of the installation and it doesn't look to difficult. But I want to ask a quick question, http://is.sewellparts.com/oem-catalo...S250-2011.html part 43501C is correct right? My invoice just asks for that part but no bearings. Im guessing they will have some type of tool to be able to pull out and insert the bearings back in? Looks like I have to take it out to the dealership then. Atleast I was able to save some money by buying it through sewell!
11-23-11, 12:46 PM
#9
Wow, thanks for everybody's feedbacks and inputs! I have done a little research and viewed a few youtube videos of the basic fundamentals of the installation and it doesn't look to difficult. But I want to ask a quick question, http://is.sewellparts.com/oem-catalo...S250-2011.html part 43501C is correct right? My invoice just asks for that part but no bearings. Im guessing they will have some type of tool to be able to pull out and insert the bearings back in? Looks like I have to take it out to the dealership then. Atleast I was able to save some money by buying it through sewell!
I remember that for the 99 Solara Camry which I had. I use to have vibrations and warping issues with my brakes. With about over 200K on the odo, we mainly changed the front bears but nothing was mentioned about the back. As a precaution, bought a new hub assembly since the rears were sealed. After the replacement, wow what a difference - had a look at the rear - the bearings were literally unrecognizable, as if they designated since it was used way past their life span!
11-23-11, 12:53 PM
#10
This is what you need:
43501C 4355030020
HUB SUB-ASSEMBLY, FRONT AXLE, (RIGHT / PASSENGER SIDE) (RWD - REAR WHEEL DRIVE) 01 In Stock $414.26 $344.54
You don't need any tools to remove the bearings as this is a sealed hub unit. All you need is your basic 1/2" drive wrenches and some 17-19mm sockets. Basic on and off. No special tools required.
43501C 4355030020
HUB SUB-ASSEMBLY, FRONT AXLE, (RIGHT / PASSENGER SIDE) (RWD - REAR WHEEL DRIVE) 01 In Stock $414.26 $344.54
You don't need any tools to remove the bearings as this is a sealed hub unit. All you need is your basic 1/2" drive wrenches and some 17-19mm sockets. Basic on and off. No special tools required.
11-23-11, 01:24 PM
#13
Did I miss something, but if the wheel wobbles on the hub...that doesn't necessarily mean a bad wheel bearing does it? I mean, it could just be a bad/warped/bent wheel. Did the dealership take any of the wheels off and see if the wheels were the caused of that wobble?
11-23-11, 01:35 PM
#14
Driver
Thread Starter
But when I apply the brakes each time I would hear a squeaking noise, and since the brake sits on the hub to and it being bent the calipers wouldn't sit there snug and tight and it would cause it to touch against the rotors. The mechanic showed me how it was slightly loose when he wobbled the rotor. The bent rim wasn't the cause of the noise, but its so minor I wouldn't think it would cause any wobble.
11-23-11, 03:22 PM
#15
Forgot to add. You will need a torque wrench. You can rent one at your local Autozone or Pepboys. I'm sure other auto parts store might also do the loan a tool program. You will have all your money returned after you return the tool.
A basic 1/2" drive ft lbs torque wrench will do the trick. Or you can buy one if you're not in a hurry. They range anywhere from $75-399 depending on the brand and so on.
Wheels should be torqued back at 76ft lbs. If you feel this is too much for you then you can have a shop do it for you. It's not too complicated so it shouldn't be much to have it done.
A basic 1/2" drive ft lbs torque wrench will do the trick. Or you can buy one if you're not in a hurry. They range anywhere from $75-399 depending on the brand and so on.
Wheels should be torqued back at 76ft lbs. If you feel this is too much for you then you can have a shop do it for you. It's not too complicated so it shouldn't be much to have it done.