patrick323

iTrader: (1)

I've posted a few threads about trunk spoilers from seeking them, to questions about specific ones. Forgive me for not just asking in that thread but wanted a broader audience.

1. I just purchased the Jun_TW carbon trunk spoiler. My concerns are 2.
First: if i should put another layer of clear. They come cleared but they suggested another layer to be safe. Or maybe would a clear film be cheaper and serve the same or more protective of a purpose? I'd just not want the film to miscolor faster than the carbon would even with clear.

2. I had a Jun-tx roof spoiler. It was attached pretty darn strong. I did end up having a very minimal gap in the dead center from not lining it up perfectly but it held strong as a rock till one day when it was gone (no glue residue left or anything) I'm not sure if it was stolen or just fell off due to lack of tapes longevity. No matter how strong the tape i'll eventually give and the last thing i want is a $400 spoiler demolished on the side of the road.

What is the best way to more permenantly attach this ? Epoxy? Body putty?

A local shop told me they could have it cleared, attached with double epoxy and 2 bolts on each end, for $300-$350 and I dont think that's quite a good price. I'm thinking I can do something myself and save most of that. I dont it it completely and perfectly molded. Of course I dont want a sloppy job but I just dont want excess water to fill-in any spaces, and I want to make sure someone cant just easily lift it off.

I'm reasonably good with minor at-home body work regarding putty/epoxy. and I'm sure I can find someone who can clear it for pretty darn cheap. Or using if a clear film for extra protection, i'm sure that's not much either considering the size.

input please!?

shiny250

iTrader: (4)

I used a rubber cement kind of glue to attach my trunk spoiler. That thing isn't going anywhere anytime soon. As for people trying to steal it, its not going anywhere, unless they steal the whole trunk. It's that kind of glue that credit card companies use to attach your new credit card to the letter when they first send you a card. I'm not sure the name of the glue, but I could try looking for it and posting the name up here.

patrick323

iTrader: (1)

PM'ing you. Though i'm not sure that the kind of glue they use for credit cards will work (it comes off of paper easily) i assume whatever process you did would work with any adhesive be it glue or a 2 part epoxy.

Trendzero

iTrader: (4)

Definitely get your carbon clear coated, even if it says it has UV protection. It won't last one summer otherwise.

Sffd103

iTrader: (16)

I'd clear it again and epoxy that thing to the trunk. Unless it's a lease and you worry about trade in. It won't go anywhere. Usually body shops charge $200 for lips to paint/clear. If they were gonna bolt it down and install it will add a couple hours. That quite is within range I'd say. See what they charge you to clear it and you can use liquid nails.

brociouz

iTrader: (65)

+1 for a second coat of clear and then using epoxy (although it'll be a pain to remove later).

patrick323

iTrader: (1)

So, say I want to "mold" it myself. This shouldnt be hard. Should I remove all the tape from the part then apply epoxy and mount? i also assume i should use epoxy sparingly or at least an amount that wont create any seepage. Or should i be striving for completely thorough coverage of all places where the spoiler is coming into contact with the trunk lid?

I just dont see the sense in giving someone $350 when i can pay someone I trust 50 to 75 to clear it and mount it myself just using epoxy. I guess I've come a long way since paying premiums for oil changes and brake pad jobs and now i find it hard to drop money on things I can do for far far cheaper.

dsage

not sure about molding or using epoxy with cf spoiler but i recently molded my wald myself. i sanded the trunk down to the metal and the spoiler (it was just frp which had no paint on it) with 80 grit then applied panel bond using one of those self mixing tips. i applied alot of the panel bond where ever the spoiler met the trunk and allowed it to come/seep out but cleaned most of it before it dried. used clamps to hold it overnight. once dry i sanded the panel bond smooth and applied a little bit of glaze to clean it up. if you do it this way you have to repaint and blend. i have some experience in paint and body work. its not the best pic

Sffd103

iTrader: (16)

I'm not sure how well youre "mold" will be. Do you mean mold or attach? You have to sand and connect the spoiler to the trunk, then paint. I don't assume you're gonna do that. I think your choice of words is off. I say pay to clear, get liquid nails. Apply enough and not too much to seep out the sides. Done!

swtjlsy

iTrader: (6)

Yeah it does'nt look molded at all molded is when you it a part of the car and you can't tell were you bonded it to the parts of the car. This looks more of a attached spoiler.

swtjlsy

iTrader: (6)

That is a standard price if not a good price most shops charge 70-110 a hr for paint and body. To paint yourspoiler it around 3hr labor to attach prep,prime, paint and buff. So 300-450 is a good price.

patrick323

iTrader: (1)

Previous poster: I want the raw (cleared) carbon fiber or i would've just bought a fiberglass spoiler. I realize that a full paint job is all about the prep which is what costs money.

My reason for wanting another layer of clear is simply for some extra precaution against discoloration from the sun. BUT.... The longest my car is ever in the sun is on a long drive. It's never parked outside in the sun for longer than an hour or so unless at a show that starts well before sundown. Given that...maybe the single layer of clear that is on it will suffice and save me some extra time and/or money. (???).

If i do decide to add another layer of clear I might finally make use of a nearby friends' paint gun/compressor. It's high time I took advantage of that. If i do add another layer of clear....must I scuff up the existing layer first or will clear coat adhere to another glossy/sanded layer of clear?


yes, "mold" was the wrong word choice. Especially since it's carbon fiber on TP I have no desire to have a seamless look. I just want to attach it without risk of it coming off or being torn off (easily). I've done very minor body work. I know i CAN do it....I just usually prefer not to but I have so many things in the works right now that I need to do whatever I can myself.

I've never actually heard of 'liquid nails.'

With this liquid nails...Do i need to sand the portions of the trunk that will be covered by the spoiler or will it adhere to the smooth, cleared trunk? I also, again, assume I should remove all double sided tape on the spoiler before doing this because likely there will be empty space in the center where there is no tape. Silly question maybe. Just want to cover all my bases before even starting.

Thanks for all your input now and in the near future cause i"m sure i'll have a few more questions

shiny250

iTrader: (4)

Liquid nails should also work. It comes in the same tubes as you'd find caulking. It's used for attaching heavy duty items so it will definitely keep your spoiler in place.

heres more on liquid nails:
http://www.liquidnails.com/index.jsp

Any construction store like Home Depot or Lowe's will carry it.

patrick323

iTrader: (1)

After looking at the liquid nails website I really just have to choose which of the product line is best for this purpose and finally..needing to know if it will adhere directly to my painted trunk and spoiler or if i need to do any sanding of the trunk where the resin/glue will be attaching

dsage

i know what your saying but theres different kinds of molding. i didnt go completely molded (flush) i just made it seamless. sorry back to the topic.