$500 to spend
#20
Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, I'm probably gonna go with changing out the Interior and Puddle lights. Then also tinting it any recommendations on color of tint ( my car is smoke granite meca.) Also I'm still a totally noob sry, but whats a red out, and are the 6k low beams brighter then the stock ones because I HATE how dark the stock lights are.
#21
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: BC
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hey i'm also pretty new to these forums, but how do you change the interior/puddle LED's?
as for ninja, here's a chart to see how bright 6k is. yours is probably the stock halogen light which kinda looks like the 3k.
as for ninja, here's a chart to see how bright 6k is. yours is probably the stock halogen light which kinda looks like the 3k.
#24
Racer
iTrader: (2)
The color temperature is measured in degrees Kelvin (4300K, 6000K, etc), and has nothing to do with brightness, which is measured in lumen output. The higher the color temperature, the lower the lumen output. So going from 4300K to 6000K means your lumen output (brightness) will actually be lower, but the color will be whiter/bluer and might appear to the eye as brighter. In your case however, if your stock 4300K HIDs have been on for a long time, their output and color may have dimmed.
Here's an explanation:
Many people believe that the higher the color temperature the brighter the lamp. This is wrong. The color temperature is purely a scale to measure the color of the light output. It is a reference purely for color and could equally be called White, Green or Blue. The reality is the higher up the scale, the less bright they become. 4300K lamps are approximately 10% brighter (measured in Lumens, not degrees K) than the 6000K.
Degrees Kelvin = ONLY COLOR
Lumen= BRIGHTNESS
I swapped my stock 4300Ks out for 5000Ks. I went 5000K for several reasons, the main ones being 1) 5000K is brighter than 6000K, and 2) emitting blue light from the front of a non-emergency vehicle is illegal and can get you a ticket and/or work order, and there are quite a few people both that I know and on CL that have gotten tickets for having 6000K lights because they look much more blue than stock. If you want to go 6000K, many people on CL buy Garax bulbs. For 5000K, I went XenonDepot, which is a vendor here on CL. Both sets of bulbs were about the same price. Here's my review of my 5000K bulbs: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/lig...ount-code.html
Red-outs are pieces of red vinyl that cover the orange part of the taillights, turning them red. Most people on CL buy either Aerotect or RVinyl red-outs. Aerotects are a bit darker red than the RVinyl's. If you search the forum for "red-outs" you'll find plenty of pics.
#25
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (3)
I think it was like 399 for labor and all on ***********.. they are in socal. I'm tempted to take the drive to SoCal and have them do my lights as well.. GL! You cant really get much with 500 bucks for anything REAL nice. Springs/spoiler/and maybe a cheap knockoff lip from ebay.
#26
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (65)
You might be able to do ALL of this with $500, if you can get a good deal on your tint job:
1. Redouts (no brainer IMO)
2. Tint
3. Front lip (GFX will probably be cheapest - fitment is perfect and looks great)
4. Interior lights https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...de-w-pics.html
5. Plasti-dip emblems and/or wheels
6. Painted (G2) calipers
7. Exhaust tips
Save money by DIY, and keep an eye on the classifieds parts. I would pass on the sway bars - not only does it do nothing for looks, it's not that big a difference with the IS250 from what I've read.
I would skip springs, unless you can install them yourself. Might as well save up for coils.
1. Redouts (no brainer IMO)
2. Tint
3. Front lip (GFX will probably be cheapest - fitment is perfect and looks great)
4. Interior lights https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...de-w-pics.html
5. Plasti-dip emblems and/or wheels
6. Painted (G2) calipers
7. Exhaust tips
Save money by DIY, and keep an eye on the classifieds parts. I would pass on the sway bars - not only does it do nothing for looks, it's not that big a difference with the IS250 from what I've read.
I would skip springs, unless you can install them yourself. Might as well save up for coils.
#27
Driver
Thread Starter
Thanks very much brocious! As far as the interior lights go I looked it up I only wanna do the puddles / and front and back dome lights. I just talked with one guy to do the 4 windows and the back glass he said its $210 w/ lifetime warranty so these two things alone is already like $350 =/ I actually have more money but would rather save it and slowly do performance stuff in winter or next year
Last edited by ninja729; 08-01-11 at 12:32 PM.
#29
Lexus Test Driver
iTrader: (65)
Thanks very much brocious! As far as the interior lights go I looked it up I only wanna do the puddles / and front and back dome lights. I just talked with one guy to do the 4 windows and the back glass he said its $210 w/ lifetime warranty so these two things alone is already like $350 =/ I actually have more money but would rather save it and slowly do performance stuff in winter or next year
1. Redouts (no brainer IMO) $10
2. Tint $210
3. Front lip (GFX will probably be cheapest - fitment is perfect and looks great) $110
4. Interior lights $60
5. Plasti-dip emblems and/or wheels ~$30
6. Painted (G2) calipers ~$40
7. Exhaust tips ~$40
Total: $500