IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

Oil Changes -

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-21-11, 08:11 AM
  #31  
Leander311
Intermediate
iTrader: (2)
 
Leander311's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 359
Received 47 Likes on 35 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by brociouz
That is my understanding, but I'm not an oil expert so I'm hoping someone else can corroborate. 0w30 will provide more protection than 0w20 (at operating temperature), at the cost of slightly lower gas mileage.

Can someone explain the pros/cons of 0w30 vs. 5w30?
First number is cold weight, so the 0w30 theoretically pumps better at lower temperatures, providing better cold-start protection.

Increased spread between cold-hot viscosity numbers usually require more VII (viscosity index improvers), which are the most-prone oil components to HTHS (hi-temp, hi-shear) breakdown. That's to say the oil may not stay in its viscosity range as long as a 5W-30 would.

Only a UOA will tell you for sure. In my TX climate, I'll be sticking to Penn Plat 5W-30, or possibly GC (German Castrol, a relatively heavy 0W-30. I've got a stash of both from my totaled Mazdaspeed3. We'll see what the UOA on PP looks like, then may try GC next summer since it will be fall/winter before the end of my current OCI.
Old 06-21-11, 08:29 AM
  #32  
brociouz
Uber 1337 Moderator
iTrader: (65)
 
brociouz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: NorCal
Posts: 7,689
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Leander311
First number is cold weight, so the 0w30 theoretically pumps better at lower temperatures, providing better cold-start protection.
The first number is the same in 0w20 vs. 0w30, so why would one provide better cold-start protection than the other?

Originally Posted by Leander311
Increased spread between cold-hot viscosity numbers usually require more VII (viscosity index improvers), which are the most-prone oil components to HTHS (hi-temp, hi-shear) breakdown. That's to say the oil may not stay in its viscosity range as long as a 5W-30 would.

Only a UOA will tell you for sure. In my TX climate, I'll be sticking to Penn Plat 5W-30, or possibly GC (German Castrol, a relatively heavy 0W-30. I've got a stash of both from my totaled Mazdaspeed3. We'll see what the UOA on PP looks like, then may try GC next summer since it will be fall/winter before the end of my current OCI.
Thanks for the info. I didn't know about the problems associated with a high spread. Gah, so hard to decide on what oil to get. 0w20, 0w30, 5w20, 5w30? I've even seen 0w50 (Eneos). (I know it'll probably make no difference assuming I change my oil at appropriate intervals, but OCD strikes again.)
Old 06-21-11, 09:01 AM
  #33  
Leander311
Intermediate
iTrader: (2)
 
Leander311's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 359
Received 47 Likes on 35 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by brociouz
The first number is the same in 0w20 vs. 0w30, so why would one provide better cold-start protection than the other?.
Sorry, your question appeared to be about 0W-30 vs. 5W-30. Cold-start protection of 0w20 vs. 0W-30 should be negligible, but again these will have different VII values, so ultimately the 0W-20 might be a bit more shear-stable, which is to say its published viscosities are more likely to hold up longer.

Originally Posted by brociouz
Thanks for the info. I didn't know about the problems associated with a high spread. Gah, so hard to decide on what oil to get. 0w20, 0w30, 5w20, 5w30? I've even seen 0w50 (Eneos). (I know it'll probably make no difference assuming I change my oil at appropriate intervals, but OCD strikes again.)
I know what you mean about OCD. I was a member of SAE for a while and designed race cars a bit in college. I'm still a professional mechanical engineer but don't get to play with cars nearly as much as I once did or would like to. I spent far more time reading up on oil than I ought to have, but again the end results were great; my UOA's on my MS3 were incredible. Yet after all that effort, my car was lost, the life lesson being you can prepare until you are blue in the face for one thing, but then another thing comes along and renders all your preparation moot.

As they say, opinions on oil are like... well, you know, and there are a lot of uninformed/misinformed folks out there who have strong opinions despite their ignorance.

IMHO, reading what folks have to say about oil is pointless unless they also offer some independent, empirical data to back up their beliefs. Until then, they're just selling religion. That's why I'm trying hard to bite my tongue until I have a lab report or two to offer. All I can say now is I'm really excited about how much easier even one of Toyota's "hottest" engines is on oil than MS3 was on its oil.
Old 06-21-11, 09:13 AM
  #34  
brociouz
Uber 1337 Moderator
iTrader: (65)
 
brociouz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: NorCal
Posts: 7,689
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Leander311
Sorry, your question appeared to be about 0W-30 vs. 5W-30. Cold-start protection of 0w20 vs. 0W-30 should be negligible, but again these will have different VII values, so ultimately the 0W-20 might be a bit more shear-stable, which is to say its published viscosities are more likely to hold up longer.
Oops, you read my question right, I just lost my train of thought (haven't had my coffee yet, and 3 hours of sleep isn't helping).

So now I'm thinking I should go with either 0w20 or 5w30... I will be drag racing my car later this year so maybe 5w30 for the operating temp protection?

Originally Posted by Leander311
I was a member of SAE for a while and designed race cars a bit in college. I'm still a professional mechanical engineer but don't get to play with cars nearly as much as I once did or would like to.
Cool, during my first couple of years in college I was in ASME and a team leader on my school's Solar Racing Team... and now I work in finance.

Originally Posted by Leander311
I spent far more time reading up on oil than I ought to have, but again the end results were great; my UOA's on my MS3 were incredible. Yet after all that effort, my car was lost, the life lesson being you can prepare until you are blue in the face for one thing, but then another thing comes along and renders all your preparation moot.

As they say, opinions on oil are like... well, you know, and there are a lot of uninformed/misinformed folks out there who have strong opinions despite their ignorance.

IMHO, reading what folks have to say about oil is pointless unless they also offer some independent, empirical data to back up their beliefs. Until then, they're just selling religion. That's why I'm trying hard to bite my tongue until I have a lab report or two to offer. All I can say now is I'm really excited about how much easier even one of Toyota's "hottest" engines is on oil than MS3 was on its oil.
Looking forward to your results.
Old 06-27-11, 08:35 AM
  #35  
embolism
Lead Lap
 
embolism's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: ON
Posts: 707
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

never played around with 0W's just have always run 5W 30 but I just went from Mobil 1 synthetic to the BMW synthetic racing oil and my highway readings for mileage went down to 8.7 L / 100 km for the first time ever. I was mainly driving at 120 km/hr too which is not the optimal speed for mileage...

Best my wife ever did for highway driving down to Boston was 9.8 L / 100 km.

wow
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TrueGS300
GS - 2nd Gen (1998-2005)
8
06-25-23 01:30 PM
krue92
IS F (2008-2014)
15
08-23-11 03:50 PM
lexusam
IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013)
24
05-18-07 06:47 PM
T-Rex06
IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013)
34
04-27-06 11:39 PM
martialart
Maintenance
21
10-30-03 06:47 PM



Quick Reply: Oil Changes -



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:28 PM.