Single DIN Dash Kit For IS250/350
#47
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
Okay, took my facelplate and mount kit/din cage assembly to my local pro today. He said he still would have done a front mount, but I disagree because it would make the aftermarket HU protrude and it would not be consistent with the curve of the factory HU and cd changer.
Showed him pics of it with the HU in, and he said it looked a lot better than he thought it would. Already picked up some epoxy today for holding the mount kit to the faceplate, and going to get the stuff I need to fiberglass fill the gaps around it, and the putty to fill the holes in the front tomorrow. Should be back on it tomorrow night or Sunday sometime. Will post pics then. Got it to this point without messing it up, but the hard part is yet to come. The finish work is going to be what takes the most time and work. Still have to get the paint color matched too, which isn't going to be cheap but will be worth it. I want it to look as clean as possible.
Wish me luck.........
Showed him pics of it with the HU in, and he said it looked a lot better than he thought it would. Already picked up some epoxy today for holding the mount kit to the faceplate, and going to get the stuff I need to fiberglass fill the gaps around it, and the putty to fill the holes in the front tomorrow. Should be back on it tomorrow night or Sunday sometime. Will post pics then. Got it to this point without messing it up, but the hard part is yet to come. The finish work is going to be what takes the most time and work. Still have to get the paint color matched too, which isn't going to be cheap but will be worth it. I want it to look as clean as possible.
Wish me luck.........
#53
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
My stock unit is still in my car. I bought a complete stock display and cd changer assembly off of Ebay. That is what is being cut down and modded to hold the aftermarket HU. If I ever choose to, I can put the entire system back to stock, by removing my custom faceplate and Kenwoood HU, and putting the stock changer back in. As for the "all that work for a Kenwood" question, yeh. It will sound that much better than the factory HU and amplifier.
#54
My stock unit is still in my car. I bought a complete stock display and cd changer assembly off of Ebay. That is what is being cut down and modded to hold the aftermarket HU. If I ever choose to, I can put the entire system back to stock, by removing my custom faceplate and Kenwoood HU, and putting the stock changer back in. As for the "all that work for a Kenwood" question, yeh. It will sound that much better than the factory HU and amplifier.
Looks like a lot of work, but I'm guessing a bunch of people here would probably like something similar in their vehicles...can't wait to see how it turns out.
#55
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: FL
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you're looking for better sound quality, why not just upgrade the speakers and maybe add an external amp. That way you maintain the OEM look and ditch the OEM sound
#56
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
I am already running very high end Hertz components speakers (HSK165s) in all four doors, have a Memphis 12" sub in a vented box tuned to 35hz, and am powering them with a Hertz EP5, 5 channel amp. All of this is run through an MTX RE-Q5 processor. The RE-Q5 is really a bass enhancer, but I have that function turned off. I chose it because it allowed me to sum all of the signals coming out of the factory amp in the trunk. Currently, I am getting a bad, and most assuredly clipped signal from the HU, which is then being amplified by the factory amp. Garbage in, garbage out definitely applies in car audio. Even with the factory HU at appoximately 3/4 volume (shouldn't be clipping at that level), factory HUs have their EQ tuned internally to compensate for strengths and weaknesses in the factory system, speakers, and speaker location. If the manufacturer feels that the average car buyer is going to want a sound system with extra bass, the factory HU will be set up with increased bass in the EQ, even if you have it set to "flat" for bass, mid, and highs. They will also turn down volume levels at high frequencies, if they realize that they do not play well with the speaker set up.
Just because you set a stock HU to a flat EQ setting does not mean that you are sending a flat signal to your amp and/or speakers. I have spent my share of time with systems that were designed for SPL, and have been able to set off car alarms in parking lots. When you get into the SQ portion of car audio, it is very complex, and nothing that you do with the rest of the system matters if you aren't starting with a clean signal.
By running the Kenwood HU, I will eliminate the factory HU, amp, and the RE-Q5. Clean signal from the Kenwood run through dual twist, dual shielded interconnects, directly to the amp (which has a S/N ratio of 105db). Should make a HUGE difference. Stop by a local car audio shop and ask them to demo a setup geared toward SQ. You won't believe your ears. My guy has an Audison LRX5.1k amp ($1500), and plays it off of a Kenwood KDX-994 (same as the 794, but with Bluetooth capability), and it it absolutely amazing.
As far as the build goes, I went to get the fiberglass putty today, but the place closed at noon!!!!! I did get the fiberglass filler though, which will go on the back of the faceplate. Plan to get the mount kit on the backside of the faceplate with epoxy tonight, and will likely move forward with the fiberglass filler on the back side, and to fill in the gaps as well. Going to have to tape everything off with masking tape first, and get everything into the house so that it is at a reasonable temperature (38 degrees in the garage at the moment).
Just because you set a stock HU to a flat EQ setting does not mean that you are sending a flat signal to your amp and/or speakers. I have spent my share of time with systems that were designed for SPL, and have been able to set off car alarms in parking lots. When you get into the SQ portion of car audio, it is very complex, and nothing that you do with the rest of the system matters if you aren't starting with a clean signal.
By running the Kenwood HU, I will eliminate the factory HU, amp, and the RE-Q5. Clean signal from the Kenwood run through dual twist, dual shielded interconnects, directly to the amp (which has a S/N ratio of 105db). Should make a HUGE difference. Stop by a local car audio shop and ask them to demo a setup geared toward SQ. You won't believe your ears. My guy has an Audison LRX5.1k amp ($1500), and plays it off of a Kenwood KDX-994 (same as the 794, but with Bluetooth capability), and it it absolutely amazing.
As far as the build goes, I went to get the fiberglass putty today, but the place closed at noon!!!!! I did get the fiberglass filler though, which will go on the back of the faceplate. Plan to get the mount kit on the backside of the faceplate with epoxy tonight, and will likely move forward with the fiberglass filler on the back side, and to fill in the gaps as well. Going to have to tape everything off with masking tape first, and get everything into the house so that it is at a reasonable temperature (38 degrees in the garage at the moment).
#60
Lexus Test Driver
Thread Starter
I got the mount kit secured to the faceplate with epoxy last night, and managed to get a coat of fiberglass filler in it today. It is now secured, and all of the major gaps have been filled. I will post some pics in a bit. I have lots of sanding to do now, and then will have to get the fiberglass putty for the remaining fill work on the front. Looks better and is finally coming together. The finish work will be the hardest part, for sure. Probably no less than a few hours of sanding and puttying yet to go, and that's not counting the painting, and mounting faceplate to the upper display unit or the relocation of the existing changer. Will be more than worth it when done, but lots of work to go none the less.