SPS

Sorry for hijacking the thread, but intake intercoolers are much more interesting than soot on your tailpipe.
Sure, one needs to remove 1300 - 1400 Watts from 120 cfm of air to lower the temperature 35 degrees F. But if one uses a heat pump ( which is what an air conditioner is ), you can do it with less power. Although, if intake air is at the same temperature as ambient air, your claimed efficiency is surprising. I could better see the benefits on a supercharged engine, where intake air is at a higher temperature than ambient. On a naturally asperated engine, you are just slightly increasing the density of the air. Probably not enough horsepower benefit to compensate for the added restriction to incoming air.
It will be intersting to see that system.

06isDriver

Ahhh.....finally a thinking man in this thread. You are right to assume it would yield more power on a supercharged or turbo charged application but I'm not there yet. However, this system still provides enough benefit for naturally aspirated engines that I'm going to continue down this same path.

I think people dont realize how much the air is heated from the time it enters the intake system until it is actually injested. If a person could completely stop the heat soak from occuring they are heads and shoulders above a normal intake system. I've taken it a step further by completely eliminating ANY heat soak as well as reducing the charge air temperature BELOW ambient air temps.

For instance, in one round of testing, the ambient air temps was 64 degrees. However, throttle body air temps were reading in the 110-116 range consistently with the system off and that was with a liberal amount of heat shielding for the entire intake system. I couldnt even begin to tell you what the temps would be with a completely stock setup. Much higher I would assume. With the system on, the throttle body temps were reading 62 degrees approximately.

Now....some may say thats only a 2 degree difference but thats just not true. We must consider the intake temperature the moment before burn in which was 116. Now subtract the conditioned temp of 62 degrees and we are seeing a 54 degree difference.

The problem up until a short time ago was actually getting the ecu to read and adjust for the much colder air temps. There has never been a problem with actually making the air colder.

These guys just like to speak on matters in which they have no direct experience.

Although...to be fair, one of them did bring up an excellent point of required cfms at full throttle, which i havent tested for and concluded just as they did that the system would be less efficient. But like I said before, I've thought of an idea that could work.

BTW these tests have been performed in both stationary (at idle) as well as under load using remote mount temp guages. I didnt go full throttle because Im am fully aware that the system couldnt account for the COLD air at that time and would be running an A/F ratio I wouldnt be comfortable with.

06isDriver

you'll also notice i havent made any claims on produced horsepower because I just dont know yet. When I schedule the dyno for the day I'll be sure to post my results, but thats still some time away.

and for goodness sake, these peeps should feel privledged the test car happens to be an is350. That just means it'll be the first design on the production line. Of course though, I'll start rolling out variations for different models of cars and trucks. After the testing is done, I'll choose the top 10 mod friendly cars/trucks. but that is probably a year away or more.

SolaraToIS

Geez dude.......you need to grab a case of beer and get hammered

06isDriver

will do

Koz

I go 1 year (Approx 12K miles) between oil changes and I don't lose even an ounce of oil and my tail pipes get black very quickly. As posted the soot is caused by a fat tune and/or an aggressive throttle.

Do yourself a favor and stay away from additives (MMO) unless you have a tired engine that needs it. Additives are chemicals, and chemicals are the first thing to break down and cause contamination.

Koz

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

MMO is 5w oil and solvent. Yes, there are people who swear by it and people who've sworn at it. I've never known anyone who rebuilds engines actually using it.

I've also never put oil in gasoline unless the engine is a two stroke. Oil is very low octane and promotes detonation. But hey, it's your engine. If it works for you, rock on.

ennjay

iTrader: (1)

it's gotta be bad muffler bearings... Also you might be low on taillight fluid as well.

DRivera250

iTrader: (6)

crap i forgot to change my headlight fluid too!! do think my headlights are shot?

06isDriver

touche' on the MMO..... http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=689158 . Although, it does mention in there that the material data sheet list the composition as a mixture of mineral oil and napethenic hydrocarbons.

that link says it has detergents in there as well but thats its basically only good for stripping deposits and sludge. The only problem is that if used for too long (and theres no way to know) it will start to strip the essential lubricants from the surface causing premature ring failure and head scoring.

So i guess I wont be using it anymore...mobil synthetic only. thanks for the tip!

Koz

Pretty much all the top synthetic oil already have more then enough detergents in their additive packages. This is why you have to be carefull when using synthetic in a high mileage engine that only used dino.

Koz

shilander

Use synthetic oil and the best filtration you can find. AMSOIL has the best value and quality for both oil and filtration.

For Lexus you will probably have to use a Wix or Mann Oil filter since AMSOIL may have not tooled your exact filter yet.

Flush your motor first, then go to the full synthetic.

See AMSOIL´s website (my profile) for product lookups on your vehicle, it will give you a comprehensive listing of all full synthetic formulations and filters available.

Your engine will burn cleaner, have more power, and is covered by AMSOIL´s limited warranty.

You will also be able to go with an extended drain interval depending on the formulation you choose. Oil filter change every 7,500 to 10,000 miles (Wix or Mann Filters)

Koz

The stock ($4) filter has PROVED to be more that adequate for 12K+ safe miles. I challenge anyone to show me proof (UOAs, etc.) that shows the filter needs to be changed sooner.

Koz