Quote:
Originally Posted by vdubturbo
My experience hasn't been good thus far. My blackberry scratched the left rear door when I was getting into the car and I already have a large rock chip on the right front fender. I'm not impressed with the durability of the paint so far...
I'd love to know how this scratch repair goes. I'm probably next in line. 
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I don't have pics to show, but this is the process I've taken over time with touch-up paint, and worked like a charm.
TOOLS:
- Touch-up Paint (highly recommend to use manufacturer/Lexus brand only)
- Fine and medium brush (can buy at art store, OSH or Home Depot)
- Masking tape (use beige color only) (can buy at same stores)
- Sand paper 600 and 900 grid (can buy at same stores)
- Scratch remover (Mothers) (auto store)
- Carnuba Wax/detailer (Mothers) (auto store)
NOTE: If you have never done touchup paint. I highly suggest you practice touchup painting with an old car or bike because it may sound easy to do, but you really need to practice first.
STEPS:
1. Clean the area (scratch/chip) with alcohol.
2. Tape around the damage area leaving 1mm of space in between. 1mm spacing will be useful when you start to wet sand.
Purpose of taping the area? It will enable you to work on that area only, without damaging OEM paint. Purpose of wet sanding? In order for you to get a smooth or even paint by wet sanding, you have to touchup outside the damage area as well, kinda like a band aid. But you will sand/rub off the part you dont need. Hope that made sense.
3. Shake the touchup paint well; the longer you shake the better result. Also, before applying shake well again. TU Paint are like freakn' snow globes. If you let it sit long enough, the snow falls.
4. Type of art brushes to use (use your best judgement). But for small scratches/chips, I always use a fine brush, feels like Im holding a fine pencil - very precise. As I mentioned above, just don't use the brush provided by manufactures, they SU#K!!
Now apply 2 strokes of paint (with fine brush) over the area. You will notice even after applying two strokes of paint, it still looks transparent; thats how it should look.

It is your base coat (so to speak) or acting as a primer. DO NOT add anymore touch-up paint. Let the base coat/primer dry for 30-45mins. or use your best judgement.
5. Do step #4 again. Continue the steps (paint and dry all day) or until you are satisfied with the base color.
What is a base color on a 2 stage touchup paint? A base color (for example on a Starfire Pearl) is Flat White. 2nd Stage is clearcoat, which will add the pearl.
6. Let the base color dry/harden overnight.
7. Wake up, its time for the fun part...wet sanding the paint. Make sure you still have the masking tape around the area you touched-up...leaving 1mm space in between.
8. Clean area with alcohol before you wet sand.
9. Use 600 grid sandpaper. Cut the paper into a small piece, usually I cut
1 1/2" x 1 1/2". Reason being, you will only use your index finger to wet sand/rub the touched-up area. By using your index finger, you will have a better feel (like holding a pencil) on how much pressure you need to rub and at the same time you will slowly see the paint thin/even/feel smooth with the OEM paint. When you are happy with the result, stop!
10. Remove the masking tape. If you are not happy yet, tape the area again and wet sand/rub some more. When all is done, you will notice the area is now nice and smooth but it still looks dull/flat color, as it should.
11. Now take the clearcoat, shake well and do step 4, 5 & 6 again.
12. Wake up...time to wet sand/rub using 900 (or even finer grid if you like) to rub some of excess clearcoat.
Now rub a tad of scratch remover on the area, and rub some carnuba wax thereafter. If done correctly, you will not notice there was a scratch/chip there.
GOOD LUCK!