IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models

Aftermarket subwoofer system setup

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Old 04-11-14, 06:29 PM
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ethenjack
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Post Aftermarket subwoofer system setup

Hey guys,

I just bought a whole subwoofer system for my 2IS... here are the following items I got and was wondering what ya'll thought about that setup and if that will sound good you think... I won't have it installed until i am back home from work... but sorta curious what others may say.

Also, hoping that what would be the best way to connect the wiring? As far as getting the lows to the subs... Would i connect to the back deck subs or door speakers? New at all this. . :/

- 2 Kicker 10CVR102 10" 2-ohm Component Subwoofers
- Kicker 40KX400.1 400W x 1 Subwoofer Amplifier
- Rockford Fosgate RFK4X Amplifier Wiring Kit 4 gauge Power
- AudioControl LC2i OEM Line converter

Thanks!
Old 04-12-14, 04:03 AM
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DonLex123
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This is the first car I haven't touched my audio system on immediately, usually that's the first thing I upgrade. I've read it's such a pain in the butt (wiring, etc) to get an aftermarket system working properly in our cars that I've shied away from messing with it. Usually I'm big on JL Audio or Memphis plus Pioneer when it comes to head unit. Please keep us informed of how the setup works out and sounds, I just might decide to tackle mine also.
Old 04-12-14, 06:16 AM
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kennyD
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I used a Line Out Converter, wired up to all rear speakers. and NOT the sub. It was not easy tagging all the wires that came out of the factory amplifier, but I got it done. If I had to do this again, this time I would buy a cable that has 4 sets of small wires within it for a much cleaner install. Then I mounted the LOC in the little cavity on the left side of the trunk for easy future adjustments.

It sounds pretty good to me, but then again, I just have (1) 10" Elemental Design Subwoofer. It fills in the lows quite well, there is no latency issue from the rear signals. Then when I want to turn it down, I change my settings to all Front Speakers. Not a big fan of bass ***** and unnecessary extra buttons in my car that's why.
Old 04-12-14, 10:10 AM
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jasonr
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does your amp require a line out converter? i am not using a line out convertor and it works fine. if you are not using line out convertor it will eliminate remote wire. but it all depends what kind of amp you have. mine doesn't require a remote wire.
Old 04-14-14, 01:52 AM
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ethenjack
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Default Don - Update on the new install

Don - I'll keep you posted and see if i can post a video and also critique the sound in the vehicle.. I definitely paid some good money to not just get noise out of the subs/system but some nice clean bass.

I get the system installed this coming Saturday at Best Buy.. I'll post back up on here soon after that.
Old 04-14-14, 01:55 AM
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ethenjack
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Default Kenny D - Response

Originally Posted by kennyD
I used a Line Out Converter, wired up to all rear speakers. and NOT the sub. It was not easy tagging all the wires that came out of the factory amplifier, but I got it done. If I had to do this again, this time I would buy a cable that has 4 sets of small wires within it for a much cleaner install. Then I mounted the LOC in the little cavity on the left side of the trunk for easy future adjustments.

It sounds pretty good to me, but then again, I just have (1) 10" Elemental Design Subwoofer. It fills in the lows quite well, there is no latency issue from the rear signals. Then when I want to turn it down, I change my settings to all Front Speakers. Not a big fan of bass ***** and unnecessary extra buttons in my car that's why.

Kenny, what do you mean a cable that has 4 sets of small wires? For what? I am having Best Buy install it so hopefully they know exactly what they are doing as I have been informed that Lexus is one of the trickier, more delicate of vehicles as far as their systems.
Old 04-14-14, 01:57 AM
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ethenjack
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Default Jason - Reply

!
Originally Posted by jasonr
does your amp require a line out converter? i am not using a line out convertor and it works fine. if you are not using line out convertor it will eliminate remote wire. but it all depends what kind of amp you have. mine doesn't require a remote wire.
Well according to the few phone calls that I made before I purchased all the equipment - they were stating that if i wanted to get the correct amp to my subs and for it to all sound good I would have to invest in a Line Out Converter...

I did a little research and made sure to pay for the more expensive one just since i bought all my equipment brand new and got warranty on it all and I am having it professionally installed.

I want it to sound prestine! But yes, they told me that I needed a LOC.
Old 04-14-14, 10:20 AM
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Johnboyee
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its not really a hard install if you have a wiring diagram for factory amp, but you do need and LOC. I would also remove the factory sub in rear deck it will help get more bass into the cabin area, but as you can tell i went over board
Old 04-15-14, 01:38 AM
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ethenjack
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Default Reply to John

Originally Posted by Johnboyee
its not really a hard install if you have a wiring diagram for factory amp, but you do need and LOC. I would also remove the factory sub in rear deck it will help get more bass into the cabin area, but as you can tell i went over board
Why remove the subs in the rear deck? Wouldn't it be good to keep those too?

Thanks!
Old 04-15-14, 02:34 PM
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kumquatism
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Two main reasons.
1: Your stock subwoofer will not have the sound signature as the aftermarket subwoofer, so the two will not complement each other very well.
2: Opens up some airflow from the trunk to the cabin so the sound can travel to your ears better.
Old 04-15-14, 03:33 PM
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kennyD
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Originally Posted by ethenjack
Kenny, what do you mean a cable that has 4 sets of small wires? For what? I am having Best Buy install it so hopefully they know exactly what they are doing as I have been informed that Lexus is one of the trickier, more delicate of vehicles as far as their systems.
A line out converter accepts high level inputs and converts them to low level inputs, some may even clean up the signal, which then is output-ed to the amplifier (or other equipment) of your choice. It doesn't matter what vehicle, whether it be a Lexus or a Honda, electricity is the same.

That being said, I used the OUTPUT signal of the FACTORY AMP (which goes to the speakers) and ran it to the LOC. (4) Rear Speakers x (2) wires per speaker = 8 small wires required. Therefore, the route I took would be much cleaner had I planned ahead and bought a cable that contains 8 wires in it already.

I understand the component system is set up for the smaller speakers to be filtered at a certain frequency (range of sound, high-med-low). Not trying to sound like I know it all, I've had a good amount of mobile audio install and setups to know the basics. Back to what I was saying, I got an LOC that has 4 inputs, so I hooked all 4 up, to make sure I was receiving the full range of sound. I know, I know, you only need the low frequencies. I also like my bass to play a little more than others, the crossover is set to play the tight drums you hear in a lot of rock music, which I listen to most often. It was to cover my ***, in case the first set of inputs did not give me the sound I wanted, then I would not have to run it again. The results have been exactly what I wanted, so I guess that wasn't a bad plan.

To each their own. But I would never let an installer at Best Buy touch my car. Not that they may bad installers, they could be very good. Luck of the draw there. I just trust myself more. If you don't think you can handle it, I would take it to a reputable audio shop.
Old 04-15-14, 03:41 PM
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kennyD
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BTW. Am I reading this right?

2 Kicker 10CVR102 10" 2-ohm Component Subwoofers
= (2) CVR 10"s

Not (2) 10s AND Component speakers?

Quick note for you, (2) 10s at 2 OHMS each wired parallel will drop to 1-OHM. Which means, your amp should be capable of running stable at that resistance level. Wired in Series will make it 4-OHMS. Some amps have issues when they are running at lower than intended resistance.
Old 04-15-14, 04:29 PM
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I quickly googled the subwoofers, and if my results are correct, they are dual voice coil, so OP would have other options of wiring. You can do a series/parallel configuration which would give you 2 ohm load.
Old 04-15-14, 08:03 PM
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kennyD
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Originally Posted by jharradine
It was not easy tagging all the wires that came out of the factory amplifier
For sure.


kumquatism I think you're right, I've had those subwoofers before. Mine were DVC, I would assume these are too.
Old 04-15-14, 10:31 PM
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well i have Pioneer Gm-d9601 Car Amp. It does not require LOC. I installed my whole system by myself. It took me 45mins to 1 hour. to install it. It runs perfectly. So i have 3500W dual coil sub.
I am not sure if all best buy guys know how to install sub on IS350. All wires have different fq.
it took me a while to find the correct ones.


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