★★★★★ Official Air Ride Thread ★★★★★
06-13-13, 10:53 AM
#1007
Thanks, I will let you know if i figure anything out, but it sounds like cutting a hole is only solution... 
I'm not opposed to it as long as the fender is still going to be strong enough to hold the upper suspension mount. I really want to run these, full negative, and still bag down all the way... only way i can run offsets I'm shooting for... So i want to make these work! 
I'm not opposed to it as long as the fender is still going to be strong enough to hold the upper suspension mount. I really want to run these, full negative, and still bag down all the way... only way i can run offsets I'm shooting for... So i want to make these work! 
06-14-13, 10:30 AM
#1008
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What's going on guys, haven't been on here in a while since I'm currently deployed to Afghanistan but I'm in the process of shopping around for air and I'm pretty suck on going with the AirREX at all four corners and getting the accuair E-Level for management. I'm curious as to if I need to run dual compressors or can i just run one, do I have to get the "power kit" that they offer with the package, and do I need to add the camber plates that they offer with the front struts. I'm talking with Rali through Bag Riders and he's been a great help, just hasn't responded to me in a few days and I'm trying to hop on a kit ASAP! If anyone could answer these questions for me to expedite the process I"d greatly appreciate it!
06-14-13, 11:05 AM
#1009
What's going on guys, haven't been on here in a while since I'm currently deployed to Afghanistan but I'm in the process of shopping around for air and I'm pretty suck on going with the AirREX at all four corners and getting the accuair E-Level for management. I'm curious as to if I need to run dual compressors or can i just run one, do I have to get the "power kit" that they offer with the package, and do I need to add the camber plates that they offer with the front struts. I'm talking with Rali through Bag Riders and he's been a great help, just hasn't responded to me in a few days and I'm trying to hop on a kit ASAP! If anyone could answer these questions for me to expedite the process I"d greatly appreciate it!
The "power kit" is just a power wire and fuse that you run to the battery...I had a leftover wire and fuse from an old audio install and just used that.
I am not sure about the camber plates, as that must be an Airrex thing...you will only need the additional camber if you can't tuck your wheels with a highly aggressive offset.
I hope that helps!!!
06-14-13, 12:52 PM
#1010
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I will try and help...you can run just 1 compressor as I am currently running, and I have yet to have any compressor related issues...but the tank pressure takes a bit longer to build and what happens if the compressor fails, that is why I will be adding a second compressor very soon.
The "power kit" is just a power wire and fuse that you run to the battery...I had a leftover wire and fuse from an old audio install and just used that.
I am not sure about the camber plates, as that must be an Airrex thing...you will only need the additional camber if you can't tuck your wheels with a highly aggressive offset.
I hope that helps!!!
The "power kit" is just a power wire and fuse that you run to the battery...I had a leftover wire and fuse from an old audio install and just used that.
I am not sure about the camber plates, as that must be an Airrex thing...you will only need the additional camber if you can't tuck your wheels with a highly aggressive offset.
I hope that helps!!!
06-17-13, 02:56 AM
#1012
Driver
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The IS250 AirREX struts dont offer a camber kit or top plate for the IS250. If you need camber you have to buy arms. The upgrade on the airrex Strut for the IS250 and many of the other Lexus models are just pillow ball mount upgrade.
I have ran all the AIRRex installs with a single compressor with no issues. thats with a 3 gallon tank also in which many will say its to small all i do is bump up the tank pressure to 210 psi and you can get one good lift from zero to full up.
I have ran all the AIRRex installs with a single compressor with no issues. thats with a 3 gallon tank also in which many will say its to small all i do is bump up the tank pressure to 210 psi and you can get one good lift from zero to full up.
What's going on guys, haven't been on here in a while since I'm currently deployed to Afghanistan but I'm in the process of shopping around for air and I'm pretty suck on going with the AirREX at all four corners and getting the accuair E-Level for management. I'm curious as to if I need to run dual compressors or can i just run one, do I have to get the "power kit" that they offer with the package, and do I need to add the camber plates that they offer with the front struts. I'm talking with Rali through Bag Riders and he's been a great help, just hasn't responded to me in a few days and I'm trying to hop on a kit ASAP! If anyone could answer these questions for me to expedite the process I"d greatly appreciate it!
06-17-13, 03:25 AM
#1013
Just an FYI adam the megan arms will not allow you to air all the way down in the front. Below is my current situation. I am ordering 30mm front Sage RCA's to compensate for the loss. The Megan arm hits the fender up top. If there is anything you can think of besides the RCA's please let me know. I thought about cutting the fender but I have to consult my auto shop.
Trimmed unibody (buddy's integra)
06-17-13, 05:05 AM
#1014
That is a super clean Integra...I think you have identified the only 2 solutions we have to air down the front as low as the rear, but I would have to say option 2 is probably the easier and safer way for most to do this. I am patiently waiting to see what heyarms and fknisc808 come up with before I take the plunge and drop $300 on the Megan UCAs and then cut and weld them...
Last edited by quick123; 06-17-13 at 05:20 AM. Reason: hit send by accident
06-17-13, 06:17 AM
#1015
The RCA's wouldn't help for more drop in this case unfortunately. The RCA's would still fix the bumpsteer issue by dropping the tie rod down however the upper control arm is still going to keep you from dropping the car further. I'd suggest either modifying the upper mount of the megan control arms so that they are shorter (won't allow for positive camber adjustment) which will keep them from hitting the unibody or just trim the unibody to allow the control arm to pass through.
Trimmed unibody (buddy's integra)
Trimmed unibody (buddy's integra)
That is a super clean Integra...I think you have identified the only 2 solutions we have to air down the front as low as the rear, but I would have to say option 2 is probably the easier and safer way for most to do this. I am patiently waiting to see what heyarms and fknisc808 come up with before I take the plunge and drop $300 on the Megan UCAs and then cut and weld them...
I know fknisc808 has them installed so he'll probably beat me to a solution Is trimming the unibody actually safe practice? I feel like it weakens that area too much? But i have seen it done on other cars a lot (and you posted up one). My new wheels will be here this week (and then need powdercoating) but theyre the reason i needed the UCA's, so the pressure will finally be on me to get this problem figured out. Will still definitely keep the thread informed of what i figure out.
06-17-13, 06:53 AM
#1016
LOL...not putting pressure on ya bro, just curious to see how you guys work around the issue.
I don't think cutting the unibody is what we will need to do, more like heating and hammering to create a pocket for the UCA to tuck into...and no worries on the slackin, I still haven't fixed the front bumper tabs yet
I don't think cutting the unibody is what we will need to do, more like heating and hammering to create a pocket for the UCA to tuck into...and no worries on the slackin, I still haven't fixed the front bumper tabs yet
06-17-13, 09:02 AM
#1017
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The IS250 AirREX struts dont offer a camber kit or top plate for the IS250. If you need camber you have to buy arms. The upgrade on the airrex Strut for the IS250 and many of the other Lexus models are just pillow ball mount upgrade.
I have ran all the AIRRex installs with a single compressor with no issues. thats with a 3 gallon tank also in which many will say its to small all i do is bump up the tank pressure to 210 psi and you can get one good lift from zero to full up.
I have ran all the AIRRex installs with a single compressor with no issues. thats with a 3 gallon tank also in which many will say its to small all i do is bump up the tank pressure to 210 psi and you can get one good lift from zero to full up.
06-18-13, 10:59 AM
#1018
The RCA's wouldn't help for more drop in this case unfortunately. The RCA's would still fix the bumpsteer issue by dropping the tie rod down however the upper control arm is still going to keep you from dropping the car further. I'd suggest either modifying the upper mount of the megan control arms so that they are shorter (won't allow for positive camber adjustment) which will keep them from hitting the unibody or just trim the unibody to allow the control arm to pass through.
Trimmed unibody (buddy's integra)
Trimmed unibody (buddy's integra)
That is a super clean Integra...I think you have identified the only 2 solutions we have to air down the front as low as the rear, but I would have to say option 2 is probably the easier and safer way for most to do this. I am patiently waiting to see what heyarms and fknisc808 come up with before I take the plunge and drop $300 on the Megan UCAs and then cut and weld them...
I still havent installed mine yet, but definitely need to so i can figure it out. I might try trimming the arms shorter but dont know for sure that would solve it until i get them installed and see how much clearance is really needed. Sorry for slacking guys I know fknisc808 has them installed so he'll probably beat me to a solution Is trimming the unibody actually safe practice? I feel like it weakens that area too much? But i have seen it done on other cars a lot (and you posted up one).
My new wheels will be here this week (and then need powdercoating) but theyre the reason i needed the UCA's, so the pressure will finally be on me to get this problem figured out. Will still definitely keep the thread informed of what i figure out.
I know fknisc808 has them installed so he'll probably beat me to a solution Is trimming the unibody actually safe practice? I feel like it weakens that area too much? But i have seen it done on other cars a lot (and you posted up one). My new wheels will be here this week (and then need powdercoating) but theyre the reason i needed the UCA's, so the pressure will finally be on me to get this problem figured out. Will still definitely keep the thread informed of what i figure out.
Im running 19x9.5 +12 up front with 225/35. I think if I were to have gone with a 215/35 I wouldnt have the 1 finger gap and I would be sitting where I would want to be.
Okay because right now I'm talking to Forjworks getting everything set up and they literally use the words "camber plates" so lol. I've talked to quite a few people I know who have air and they said they would never rely on just one single compressor because if it fails then you're pretty much **** outta luck! So far everything I've put together is the Accuair E-level touchpad kit with two 400c compressors, the power kit and exo mount kit and then all 4 airREX struts w/o the "camber plates" for around 5k shipped, does this sound reasonable people? Just don't want to rush into setting up a kit then find out someone else sells everything a lot cheaper! I'll also be selling the BC Coilovers I have immediately after all this is done lol
I agree on the single compressor, not only if it fails but is way to slow especially if you drain your system, ie. my boy just installed a 5 gallon and his 380C took over 4 minutes to fill it.
06-18-13, 12:06 PM
#1020
Pole Position
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 353
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Super clean Teg, thanks for the info ccdan.
So I went to town with the air hammer on the areas that were hitting the arms which worked to some extent. I now have a 1 finger gap from fender to the lip of my wheel. I WANT MOAR LOW! I found a few spots where the fender sits on my tire so I am going to explore that route first. My last option is to go with ccdan's advise and shorten the the arm. I dont have anyone readily accessable to cut and weld.
Im running 19x9.5 +12 up front with 225/35. I think if I were to have gone with a 215/35 I wouldnt have the 1 finger gap and I would be sitting where I would want to be.
5K for the whole setup including shipping sounds pretty good to me. Forjworks is a local company here and Marshall is a good guy. Are there other Airrex vendors in the states?
I agree on the single compressor, not only if it fails but is way to slow especially if you drain your system, ie. my boy just installed a 5 gallon and his 380C took over 4 minutes to fill it.
So I went to town with the air hammer on the areas that were hitting the arms which worked to some extent. I now have a 1 finger gap from fender to the lip of my wheel. I WANT MOAR LOW! I found a few spots where the fender sits on my tire so I am going to explore that route first. My last option is to go with ccdan's advise and shorten the the arm. I dont have anyone readily accessable to cut and weld.
Im running 19x9.5 +12 up front with 225/35. I think if I were to have gone with a 215/35 I wouldnt have the 1 finger gap and I would be sitting where I would want to be.
5K for the whole setup including shipping sounds pretty good to me. Forjworks is a local company here and Marshall is a good guy. Are there other Airrex vendors in the states?
I agree on the single compressor, not only if it fails but is way to slow especially if you drain your system, ie. my boy just installed a 5 gallon and his 380C took over 4 minutes to fill it.
