60,000 service $900, what do you think?
01-24-09, 12:34 PM
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60,000 service $900, what do you think?
So I have a 2007 Is 250 understanding the "price of service". My one question for those who have done it or know more on the issue. They say they service:
-Throttle body and fuel system cleaning: I would say its ideal maintenance for any vehicle
-Replace all spark plugs: eeh I dunno my scion, and my mini works didn't even need this until 100,000 miles so I am hesitant
-Rotate and balance all tires: Yes again ideal but dont need this service right now personally
-Oil change: def cheaper to do on my own: ideal but another one not needed
-In cabin filter and air filter
I may have left some others out by accident and ofcoarse non needed services will be deducted but my mainquestion is the tech said the FUEL FILTER didnt need to be replaced which was odd to me and ofcoarse to me early than what im used to besides older vehicles of coarse in changeing the spark plugs what do you guys think?
-Throttle body and fuel system cleaning: I would say its ideal maintenance for any vehicle
-Replace all spark plugs: eeh I dunno my scion, and my mini works didn't even need this until 100,000 miles so I am hesitant
-Rotate and balance all tires: Yes again ideal but dont need this service right now personally
-Oil change: def cheaper to do on my own: ideal but another one not needed
-In cabin filter and air filter
I may have left some others out by accident and ofcoarse non needed services will be deducted but my mainquestion is the tech said the FUEL FILTER didnt need to be replaced which was odd to me and ofcoarse to me early than what im used to besides older vehicles of coarse in changeing the spark plugs what do you guys think?
01-24-09, 01:10 PM
#2
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So I have a 2007 Is 250 understanding the "price of service". My one question for those who have done it or know more on the issue. They say they service:
-Throttle body and fuel system cleaning: I would say its ideal maintenance for any vehicle
-Replace all spark plugs: eeh I dunno my scion, and my mini works didn't even need this until 100,000 miles so I am hesitant
-Rotate and balance all tires: Yes again ideal but dont need this service right now personally
-Oil change: def cheaper to do on my own: ideal but another one not needed
-In cabin filter and air filter
I may have left some others out by accident and ofcoarse non needed services will be deducted but my mainquestion is the tech said the FUEL FILTER didnt need to be replaced which was odd to me and ofcoarse to me early than what im used to besides older vehicles of coarse in changeing the spark plugs what do you guys think?
-Throttle body and fuel system cleaning: I would say its ideal maintenance for any vehicle
-Replace all spark plugs: eeh I dunno my scion, and my mini works didn't even need this until 100,000 miles so I am hesitant
-Rotate and balance all tires: Yes again ideal but dont need this service right now personally
-Oil change: def cheaper to do on my own: ideal but another one not needed
-In cabin filter and air filter
I may have left some others out by accident and ofcoarse non needed services will be deducted but my mainquestion is the tech said the FUEL FILTER didnt need to be replaced which was odd to me and ofcoarse to me early than what im used to besides older vehicles of coarse in changeing the spark plugs what do you guys think?
Check the manual in the car,
There isa difference between "dealer recommended" service and "Lexus recommended" service
01-24-09, 01:21 PM
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seems strange they are recommending spark plugs at 60k.
im a lexus tech here in socal and all the cars with spark plug intervals @ 60k were made before 2004..
im pretty sure the is is recommended at 120 but i have to check my book to be sure
im a lexus tech here in socal and all the cars with spark plug intervals @ 60k were made before 2004..
im pretty sure the is is recommended at 120 but i have to check my book to be sure
01-24-09, 05:40 PM
#5
Yeah, check the book... it's 60k on the 2IS and in fact it's 60k on the LS and GS too. (yes, the ones made now, not in 2004)
You can also check the owners manual, or Lexus.com where you can read the maintenance manual, it's 60k there too.
http://www.lexus.com/pdf/service/Sedans.pdf
The air/cabin filters you can do yourself for almost nothing... the TB cleaning you can do yourself for exactly nothing if you have a can of TB cleaner (or like $3 otherwise). Probably won't hurt to clean your TB yourself at 60, but you probably don't need it... If you're using decent fuel you don't need the "fuel system" cleaned at 60k.
Unless you have an AWD car it's impossible to rotate your tires, they're different sizes front/rear, and directional. (well, you can unmount em, swap sides, and remount em, but I doubt they're offering to do that and it's a bit excessive)
What's odd is they didn't tell you to change the brake fluid, which IS listed in the manual every 30k miles, so it'd be expected to change at 60k.
01-25-09, 07:21 AM
#6
When you change your cabin air filter, make sure you set the system to RECIRCULATE MODE! There are a lot of posts on this site about people who lifted the door by hand and broke the hinge. (I'm glad I read about that before possibly making the same mistake)
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01-26-09, 12:24 PM
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I performed my own 60k service yesterday and had the following observations:
1. As some of you may know the cabin filter is easy as long as you put the car in recirc. mode vs. fresh air mode.
2. The air filter is almost as easy and after doing it in the past every 10k miles, was really no big deal.
3. The spark plugs look difficult however if you take off the air intake tube the passenger side, the plugs are easily accessible. The drivers side plugs on the other hand are much harder. There is a gray wiring harness tube that runs over the plugs and the tube is secured with three gray zip ties. the front and rear ties are secured behind little metal brackets and if you pinch the rear side of the brackets the harness' will release. From what I could see the middle zip tie could not be released because of the large plastic black air circulation part and therefore I believe must be cut. Once you cut the zip tie (being careful not to cut into the wire loom) it will release and you could later resecure with a new tie. From here all you need to do is disconnect a few wiring harnesses and you are good. I found it helpful to have a ratcheting wrench for the spark plug top bolt closest to the front of the car due to the real lack of room for a socket wrench, even with an extension. the iridium plugs that I ordered via Carson's website were properly gapped already, but you may want to check the gap anyway. The manual provided the spec, something ,like .043. I have also read that you should not install new plugs when the engine is hot, so I made sure to let it cool beforehand.
4. Most of the brake fluid can be removed via a turkey baster to the fluid reservoir and bleeding the old fluid through each brake line. To minimize the chance of air bubbles I chose to put in a bottle of the Toyota Dot 3 fluid after using the baster, then bled the brakes to get rid of the old. About 8-10 very slow pumps of the brake peddle while opening the bleed valve on each disc worked for me. I made sure to close bleed valve after each pump and only open after starting the next pump. More than likely some of the new fluid will come out of the valve, but I thought that was ok because when i was done I just topped off the reservoir with new fluid.
5. For the coolant there is a small yellow twist off plug accessible via the oil filter cover. When removed, the coolant will come out through the hole in the splash cover just forward of the yellow plug. For better pressure I did let the car run for a bit with the heater on high before removing the yellow plug. I also opened the fluid reservoir cap after turning off the car and before removing the yellow plug. In case you do not know, DO NOT remove the radiator cap if the engine is hot. Also, after draining all the coolant I put the yellow plug back in and then waited a few hours for the block to cool before adding new coolant so as not to crack the block. When I did add the new Toyota coolant I added it via the radiator cap access, then once that was full I closed the cap and filled the fluid reservoir.
6. I changed the oil and filter as usual, its pretty easy.
Really, all this took about 6 hours and about $150 vs. spending $1,200 for Lexus to do it. As some have noted, there really is no need to do the transmission fluid as it is a sealed "lifetime" system. Most of my miles are freeway and therefore hopefully my transmission will last a while.
1. As some of you may know the cabin filter is easy as long as you put the car in recirc. mode vs. fresh air mode.
2. The air filter is almost as easy and after doing it in the past every 10k miles, was really no big deal.
3. The spark plugs look difficult however if you take off the air intake tube the passenger side, the plugs are easily accessible. The drivers side plugs on the other hand are much harder. There is a gray wiring harness tube that runs over the plugs and the tube is secured with three gray zip ties. the front and rear ties are secured behind little metal brackets and if you pinch the rear side of the brackets the harness' will release. From what I could see the middle zip tie could not be released because of the large plastic black air circulation part and therefore I believe must be cut. Once you cut the zip tie (being careful not to cut into the wire loom) it will release and you could later resecure with a new tie. From here all you need to do is disconnect a few wiring harnesses and you are good. I found it helpful to have a ratcheting wrench for the spark plug top bolt closest to the front of the car due to the real lack of room for a socket wrench, even with an extension. the iridium plugs that I ordered via Carson's website were properly gapped already, but you may want to check the gap anyway. The manual provided the spec, something ,like .043. I have also read that you should not install new plugs when the engine is hot, so I made sure to let it cool beforehand.
4. Most of the brake fluid can be removed via a turkey baster to the fluid reservoir and bleeding the old fluid through each brake line. To minimize the chance of air bubbles I chose to put in a bottle of the Toyota Dot 3 fluid after using the baster, then bled the brakes to get rid of the old. About 8-10 very slow pumps of the brake peddle while opening the bleed valve on each disc worked for me. I made sure to close bleed valve after each pump and only open after starting the next pump. More than likely some of the new fluid will come out of the valve, but I thought that was ok because when i was done I just topped off the reservoir with new fluid.
5. For the coolant there is a small yellow twist off plug accessible via the oil filter cover. When removed, the coolant will come out through the hole in the splash cover just forward of the yellow plug. For better pressure I did let the car run for a bit with the heater on high before removing the yellow plug. I also opened the fluid reservoir cap after turning off the car and before removing the yellow plug. In case you do not know, DO NOT remove the radiator cap if the engine is hot. Also, after draining all the coolant I put the yellow plug back in and then waited a few hours for the block to cool before adding new coolant so as not to crack the block. When I did add the new Toyota coolant I added it via the radiator cap access, then once that was full I closed the cap and filled the fluid reservoir.
6. I changed the oil and filter as usual, its pretty easy.
Really, all this took about 6 hours and about $150 vs. spending $1,200 for Lexus to do it. As some have noted, there really is no need to do the transmission fluid as it is a sealed "lifetime" system. Most of my miles are freeway and therefore hopefully my transmission will last a while.
04-28-09, 06:15 AM
#14
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I am having my 60,000 service done today and was quoted $690. I called my local Toyota dealership and asked them for a quote because I think $690 is CRAZY. The service rep at Toyota said that they can do it for $550 +or-. He said that the spark plugs makes the 60,000 service expensive and the IS needs plugs changed at 60,000. He did say not to have the transmission fluid flushed. Lexus will flush it regardless if it needs it or not because it's in the package to do so. I called my service rep at Lexus and mentioned this so he is taking $200 off which makes me feel a little better. Even though I can do MOST of these things myself I'd rather be safe than sorry since I did pay a lot for my IS350. If this was a Honda, Ford, or Chevy then I'd just do it myself.
04-28-09, 07:12 AM
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3. The spark plugs look difficult however if you take off the air intake tube the passenger side, the plugs are easily accessible. The drivers side plugs on the other hand are much harder. There is a gray wiring harness tube that runs over the plugs and the tube is secured with three gray zip ties. the front and rear ties are secured behind little metal brackets and if you pinch the rear side of the brackets the harness' will release. From what I could see the middle zip tie could not be released because of the large plastic black air circulation part and therefore I believe must be cut. Once you cut the zip tie (being careful not to cut into the wire loom) it will release and you could later resecure with a new tie. From here all you need to do is disconnect a few wiring harnesses and you are good. I found it helpful to have a ratcheting wrench for the spark plug top bolt closest to the front of the car due to the real lack of room for a socket wrench, even with an extension. the iridium plugs that I ordered via Carson's website were properly gapped already, but you may want to check the gap anyway. The manual provided the spec, something ,like .043. I have also read that you should not install new plugs when the engine is hot, so I made sure to let it cool beforehand.