60,000 service $900, what do you think?
04-28-09, 04:19 PM
#16
I am having my 60,000 service done today and was quoted $690. I called my local Toyota dealership and asked them for a quote because I think $690 is CRAZY. The service rep at Toyota said that they can do it for $550 +or-. He said that the spark plugs makes the 60,000 service expensive and the IS needs plugs changed at 60,000. He did say not to have the transmission fluid flushed. Lexus will flush it regardless if it needs it or not because it's in the package to do so. I called my service rep at Lexus and mentioned this so he is taking $200 off which makes me feel a little better. Even though I can do MOST of these things myself I'd rather be safe than sorry since I did pay a lot for my IS350. If this was a Honda, Ford, or Chevy then I'd just do it myself.
Doesn't matter if its a Lexus, honda, or chevy, a car is a car, but hey if you got the money to spend and makes you sleep better at night
04-15-11, 08:48 AM
#21
I performed my own 60k service yesterday and had the following observations:
1. As some of you may know the cabin filter is easy as long as you put the car in recirc. mode vs. fresh air mode.
2. The air filter is almost as easy and after doing it in the past every 10k miles, was really no big deal.
3. The spark plugs look difficult however if you take off the air intake tube the passenger side, the plugs are easily accessible. The drivers side plugs on the other hand are much harder. There is a gray wiring harness tube that runs over the plugs and the tube is secured with three gray zip ties. the front and rear ties are secured behind little metal brackets and if you pinch the rear side of the brackets the harness' will release. From what I could see the middle zip tie could not be released because of the large plastic black air circulation part and therefore I believe must be cut. Once you cut the zip tie (being careful not to cut into the wire loom) it will release and you could later resecure with a new tie. From here all you need to do is disconnect a few wiring harnesses and you are good. I found it helpful to have a ratcheting wrench for the spark plug top bolt closest to the front of the car due to the real lack of room for a socket wrench, even with an extension. the iridium plugs that I ordered via Carson's website were properly gapped already, but you may want to check the gap anyway. The manual provided the spec, something ,like .043. I have also read that you should not install new plugs when the engine is hot, so I made sure to let it cool beforehand.
4. Most of the brake fluid can be removed via a turkey baster to the fluid reservoir and bleeding the old fluid through each brake line. To minimize the chance of air bubbles I chose to put in a bottle of the Toyota Dot 3 fluid after using the baster, then bled the brakes to get rid of the old. About 8-10 very slow pumps of the brake peddle while opening the bleed valve on each disc worked for me. I made sure to close bleed valve after each pump and only open after starting the next pump. More than likely some of the new fluid will come out of the valve, but I thought that was ok because when i was done I just topped off the reservoir with new fluid.
5. For the coolant there is a small yellow twist off plug accessible via the oil filter cover. When removed, the coolant will come out through the hole in the splash cover just forward of the yellow plug. For better pressure I did let the car run for a bit with the heater on high before removing the yellow plug. I also opened the fluid reservoir cap after turning off the car and before removing the yellow plug. In case you do not know, DO NOT remove the radiator cap if the engine is hot. Also, after draining all the coolant I put the yellow plug back in and then waited a few hours for the block to cool before adding new coolant so as not to crack the block. When I did add the new Toyota coolant I added it via the radiator cap access, then once that was full I closed the cap and filled the fluid reservoir.
6. I changed the oil and filter as usual, its pretty easy.
Really, all this took about 6 hours and about $150 vs. spending $1,200 for Lexus to do it. As some have noted, there really is no need to do the transmission fluid as it is a sealed "lifetime" system. Most of my miles are freeway and therefore hopefully my transmission will last a while.
1. As some of you may know the cabin filter is easy as long as you put the car in recirc. mode vs. fresh air mode.
2. The air filter is almost as easy and after doing it in the past every 10k miles, was really no big deal.
3. The spark plugs look difficult however if you take off the air intake tube the passenger side, the plugs are easily accessible. The drivers side plugs on the other hand are much harder. There is a gray wiring harness tube that runs over the plugs and the tube is secured with three gray zip ties. the front and rear ties are secured behind little metal brackets and if you pinch the rear side of the brackets the harness' will release. From what I could see the middle zip tie could not be released because of the large plastic black air circulation part and therefore I believe must be cut. Once you cut the zip tie (being careful not to cut into the wire loom) it will release and you could later resecure with a new tie. From here all you need to do is disconnect a few wiring harnesses and you are good. I found it helpful to have a ratcheting wrench for the spark plug top bolt closest to the front of the car due to the real lack of room for a socket wrench, even with an extension. the iridium plugs that I ordered via Carson's website were properly gapped already, but you may want to check the gap anyway. The manual provided the spec, something ,like .043. I have also read that you should not install new plugs when the engine is hot, so I made sure to let it cool beforehand.
4. Most of the brake fluid can be removed via a turkey baster to the fluid reservoir and bleeding the old fluid through each brake line. To minimize the chance of air bubbles I chose to put in a bottle of the Toyota Dot 3 fluid after using the baster, then bled the brakes to get rid of the old. About 8-10 very slow pumps of the brake peddle while opening the bleed valve on each disc worked for me. I made sure to close bleed valve after each pump and only open after starting the next pump. More than likely some of the new fluid will come out of the valve, but I thought that was ok because when i was done I just topped off the reservoir with new fluid.
5. For the coolant there is a small yellow twist off plug accessible via the oil filter cover. When removed, the coolant will come out through the hole in the splash cover just forward of the yellow plug. For better pressure I did let the car run for a bit with the heater on high before removing the yellow plug. I also opened the fluid reservoir cap after turning off the car and before removing the yellow plug. In case you do not know, DO NOT remove the radiator cap if the engine is hot. Also, after draining all the coolant I put the yellow plug back in and then waited a few hours for the block to cool before adding new coolant so as not to crack the block. When I did add the new Toyota coolant I added it via the radiator cap access, then once that was full I closed the cap and filled the fluid reservoir.
6. I changed the oil and filter as usual, its pretty easy.
Really, all this took about 6 hours and about $150 vs. spending $1,200 for Lexus to do it. As some have noted, there really is no need to do the transmission fluid as it is a sealed "lifetime" system. Most of my miles are freeway and therefore hopefully my transmission will last a while.
This would be my first time replacing spark plugs on any car. How worried should I be about the above risk?
Last edited by calvin2376; 04-15-11 at 08:58 AM.
04-15-11, 10:02 AM
#22
Lexus Test Driver
I was late to change my plugs out at 70k. The only plugs that looked questionable were the two closest to the firewall, one on each bank.
The electrodes were severely worn and each of them had a surprising amount of gunk/oil on them. All other spark plugs looked used, but not like that.
Since I've changed them out, I've noticed much smoother idle. I can only assume those two plugs were like that because of the design of the engine and nothing that I've done over the life of the car.
I guess I'll find out again at 120k?
But to stay on topic, 900+ dollar is ridiculous. Go out to your garage pick up a wrench, learn something, and save money!
I'll tell you what, bring it to me and I'll do it for 450. Half off aint bad!
Last edited by 06isDriver; 04-15-11 at 10:09 AM.
04-15-11, 11:31 AM
#24
Whether or not you like keeping your car dealer maintained, you can always buy the 60k service kit from Sewell. It's about $130 shipped. And then take it to your dealer for the labor. Or, if you want to save a crap load of cash, take it to any competent mechanic and they will do the same thing as the dealer for half the price
04-15-11, 11:36 AM
#25
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And the technician will be happy to slice your radiator hose so you'll be back in to make up that loss on parts markup. GLWT
04-15-11, 02:18 PM
#29
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04-15-11, 02:44 PM
#30
I would cheap out. Do the oil change, maybe change the spark plugs and do the oil changes (tranny as well as engine). Then I would spend money on brakes if needed and tires....
I can find better ways to spend that $900.
Just me though.
I can find better ways to spend that $900.
Just me though.