AGGRESSIVE ISX50 wheel thread
03-05-14, 05:31 PM
#1891
I have this set up, but on ksport coils and pretty much fender roll all around and some shaving on the rear where the fender meets the bumper... And also completely shaved off the front bumper tabs and replaced with JDM fasteners and trimmed and cut the fender liner upfront but because im running 235/35 with your 225/35 you should be better off and im not slammed just slightly tucked
03-05-14, 05:39 PM
#1893
03-17-14, 10:30 PM
#1902
Lexus Test Driver
03-18-14, 06:29 AM
#1903
AIT Racing makes them. Around $700 for the sides and rears.
I don't think TE37's or CE28's will ever die :-)
Thanks man. I really don't have any photos of it yet as I put those on to check my tire sizing and pulled them off and put the CCW SP16A Hybrids back on. I'll most likely have everything done and put together here in a week or two.
Fenders are barely pulled. Maybe a 1/4" at max. From the body line around the fender they're more so angled to match the stretch. I made sure not to go to crazy as I also pulled the bumper to quarter connection to make the pull look seamless (no bubble like you see on most other cars). Just looks cleaner and more OEM.
The main advantage is all the adjustable links I have. All 5 links have be replaced with adjustable ones which there is enough slop in the axles to adjust all the links inwards. This effectively lets me lower the offset of the car. The upper control arm just like any other car as shortened adjusts your camber gain. It's nice to have as little camber gain as possible which the 2IS is setup to do but as most guys running aggressive setups come to find out you can't poke wheels without the wheels hitting the quarters. By shortening the upper control arm and changing your camber gain (will camber quick and more drastic the shorter) you will find a happy medium at a certain point of poking where the car will camber enough for the wheel to tuck into the fender when compressed enough. The upper control arm also allows you to get some tight tolerance between the tire and fender which personally I think makes or brakes as setup. Nothing worst than an aggressive setup with so much stretch you can put your finger between the sidewall and the inside of the fender. Anyone can do that easy **** :-).
Fenders are barely pulled. Maybe a 1/4" at max. From the body line around the fender they're more so angled to match the stretch. I made sure not to go to crazy as I also pulled the bumper to quarter connection to make the pull look seamless (no bubble like you see on most other cars). Just looks cleaner and more OEM.
The main advantage is all the adjustable links I have. All 5 links have be replaced with adjustable ones which there is enough slop in the axles to adjust all the links inwards. This effectively lets me lower the offset of the car. The upper control arm just like any other car as shortened adjusts your camber gain. It's nice to have as little camber gain as possible which the 2IS is setup to do but as most guys running aggressive setups come to find out you can't poke wheels without the wheels hitting the quarters. By shortening the upper control arm and changing your camber gain (will camber quick and more drastic the shorter) you will find a happy medium at a certain point of poking where the car will camber enough for the wheel to tuck into the fender when compressed enough. The upper control arm also allows you to get some tight tolerance between the tire and fender which personally I think makes or brakes as setup. Nothing worst than an aggressive setup with so much stretch you can put your finger between the sidewall and the inside of the fender. Anyone can do that easy **** :-).
03-18-14, 08:05 AM
#1905
Figs would help with less negative camber but really does nothing for you other wise unless you have all the links. The figs will also offset the wheel towards the back of the wheel well making your rubbing issue worse as it's that way.
The trailing arm (front lower control arm) will also adjust camber; if shortened it would lessen your camber and pull the wheel forward.
The upper straight control arm is most likely your best option as it doesn't move the wheel around at all and pulls the top of the tire in. This would effectively fix your issue with the most ease. If it pulls too much camber for your likings I would suggest then getting the trailing arm as it will then lessen the camber back to where it was and pull the wheel forward.
After any of these adjustments you'll need to adjust the toe. Factory adjustment "might" be out of range depending on what you adjust and how much so be per paired you may have to fork out for these.
You can see it's easy to get overwhelmed had hard to decide on what to buy.
