a4rings

[QUOTE=tt061880;2751074]After a few days of testing different approach to get the signals. I have decided that the Scosche 4channel LOC is the best bang for the buck, screw the cleansweep and AudioControl. Two channel LOC would work but 4 channel works better, here are the reasons why.

The ML amp put a lot of power into the sub, I know this for a fact because when I switching the input the signals from the sub and the front door woofer, I noticed that the sub signal is significantly higher. If you have a 2 channel LOC, you can use one for the sub and one for the front door woofer. You must then adjust the input level from the stock sub lower to match with the front woofer.

I also tested the signals from the two front woofers, they carry a lot of midbass. If you have signal from either one of the front woofer, the signal is only half compare to using both(I achieved this by using a Y RCA cable).

The best solution I found is SUM up the two front woofer to one channel and the subwoofer on a channel by itself. By doing it this way, the setup sounds SO MUCH better than before. I can actually listen to the lows without getting a headache like it was before

Also, although the wires going into the rear door is full range, the ML amp barely send any wattages in there. It isn't worth getting the signal from the rear speakers so you can can ignore it.

here are the pictures





after everything is in place






can someone please explain what is going on with the RCA's in this picture? I only have two RCA connections on my amp.
In this picture, where are the two RCA's on the left going? and the 4 RCA's on the right?

thanks guys

a4rings

Nobody? someone please shed some light

djh0002002

how do I remove the factory sub. is it pop up from inside car? what are the 4-8 wires at the beginning of the 30 plug factory amp? I know the next sets are the speakers and I have that breakdown/color coding.

djh0002002

how do I remove the factory sub. is it pop up from inside car? what are the 4-8 wires at the beginning of the 30 plug factory amp? I know the next sets are the speakers and I have that breakdown/color coding.

G4lexboi

Looks like mines

kkilmore89

Can someone help me fast please? I am trying to tap into the front door speakers so I can run them off an amp. But everything in this thread I can't seem to correlate it all together. Can you guys tell me what wires are the door speakers on which input for a NON-ML 2011 Fsport????

kkilmore89

anyone please???

jgoorn

How to install a sub (I think) just trying to get these thoughts together so that I can understand em all.

1) Get power wire from firewall rubber gasket to inside of car.
2) pull up kick paneling and run the wire down to the back of the car (I don't know how to get it past the middle section of the car behind the passengers seat so if anyone can clarify/send pics I'd really appreciate it)
3) remove kick panel on back and put wire through
4) remove rear seat and find a trunk firewall?? (please add pics) also remove the rear sub when digging around in the rear seats/deck
5) remove rear trunk carpet? (not sure if necessary, but I would not be able to do an install without it looking pretty clean and wires hidden)
6) With the sub and amp that I am getting: http://goo.gl/vAGk3R I think from what I gather with the LOC thing is that I can take all of my front woofers and the sub hi input and it combines them all and gives it back in RCA format. So I will need to get one of these too.
7) Connect the best choice of wires It has a "built in low pass crossover 50-250hz so what ever works the best.
8) Try to find a remote wire. I think it is the orange one closest to the trunk for nav/non ml. if you know please let me know which one it is also find a ground point on the metal of the car (should be easy with the carpet out. Connect the ground to the car and to the amp.
9) once all the wires are figured out reinstall the carpet and stick the wires through. Keep this specific sub to the closest rear seats and right as possible in the trunk to keep a clean look I think. mount everything up and do some finishing touches.
10) is screwing this sub down necessary? If so where should I screw into? I have no idea. Also it has a bass **** so I need to figure out how to run the wire from the **** in a blank panel to the back of the car.
11) make sure that everything is done properly before connecting power.

If anyone is in Dallas and knows how all of this works send me a PM if you want to help me install it. I can purchase lunch(es) and have a 24 pack of chilled water bottles because the weather over the summer will be really hot. I get this car late June/ early July.

kumquatism

iTrader: (10)

Just pull the front passenger panels up, rear passenger panel up, and run the cable across the B-pillar area. Pretty straightforward. When you pull it apart you'll see.

Refer to this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...d-threads.html.

Just a bunch of clips. Refer to this thread: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...unk-liner.html

Very easy to find ground with the liner already out. There's a bunch of spots all over you can use. Just make sure to sand down the contact surface and remove any paint.

Don't need to. Sub should sit flush and is pretty heavy. It shouldn't move around if it's in the far end of your trunk. Running a remote wire to the front of the car is the same procses as running the amp power cable to the rear, but on the driver's side.

jgoorn

Thanks. I feel pretty confident I will be able to do it.

drwafk

2010 IS350 with ML + Nav

Quick question [I've read the entire thread FYI and am still a little confused]: Does the Scosche LOC get tapped between the factory stereo and the factory ML amp OR between the factory ML amp and the speakers?

Actually another question if you have time to respond. Tell me if this is correct: Take Front left speaker + and the front right speaker + and put it into A1 on the LOC, then Front Left speaker - and front right speaker - and put it into A2. Then tap the sub + and put it into A3 and the sub - and put it into A4. Then RCA out only using the Right front and Left Front (the 2 on the far left bottom of the LOC). Or do I put the Sub + and - into A6/A7 respectively and RCA out using the outter most RCAs to the aftermarket amp?

Thank you.

2eXceL

iTrader: (2)

I am attempting this and already have it half-way done. But I have the SAME problem potentially described above. I am guessing Lexus made a wiring change at some point maybe '10 or '11 since the 2nd to last connector on the non-ML amp which is supposed to have the Front Door Woofers looks a bit different.
Here is my problem, the Left and Right Front Door do have the (Pink/Brown) and (Red/White) wires at the Door, but when you get to the AMP, there is only a Pink, Tan, Purple, Green, etc and TWO different sets of Red/White
Does anyone have an acutal Pin Number for the Door Woofer Wiring, knowing which PIN would be better... For now I tapped into the Pink and Tan (off-White) and into the first set of White/Red, and I will hook up the Subwoofer this weekend to see if it sounds right.
Also just FYI, I am using the AudioControl Lc7i, (found the Scosche LOC too cheap and gain controls broke immediately) and I am installing Stinger (Dynamat) sheets also in Trunk and doors while I was at it.
Any help with 2011 Pin out or Wiring for an IS350 with NON-ML would be greatly appreciated

2eXceL

iTrader: (2)

The best thing to do is use the wiring Diagram, and pay attention to the PIN numbers listed next to the wires instead of just the COLOR.
For example I just did this on a 2011 IS350 F-Sport NON-ML.
OK, I figured it out after opening the Speaker Wiring Diagram file earlier in this thread and using the PIN NUMBERS shown.
This is most important for the Front Door speakers because that the colors are different at the Amplifier connector than what they are at the Actual Door. This may not be obvious and could be overlooked if you just pay attention to the color wires described through-out this entire Thread.
When you disconnect your connectors at the AMP you will can look into the connector at the AMP and it will have the numbers. For example, they start with #1 at the upper FRONT-most position.
Also for the remote wire I used the very rear connector, closest to the Tail-lamps, and the thin WHITE wire at PIN #3 has 12V.
I used T-taps 18 gauge to do the entire setup, the Sub-Woofer wires are as everyone has already stated in the earlier posts.

Chyabrah

Reviving the dead!

Has anyone done this on a third gen? I am having issues getting the power to the trunk.. I cleared the fire wall and got to the back door door sill but can't seem to get back to the trunk. If anyone has any experience that would be great. I have a 2015 non-ml..

thanks!

Sheazy

You need to detach the plastic cover next to the rear seat (back part) once uncovered. There's a plastic/foam sheet and you can snug your power wire through.