IS - 2nd Gen (2006-2013) Discussion about the 2006+ model IS models
Old 12-15-14, 01:10 PM
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DIY aftermarket amp power wire install step by step with pictures

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Old 06-10-12, 04:44 PM
  #211  
BigWiLL345
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Im looking for a remote. below is a pic from the amp in my car which is a 06 250 non nav non ML, none of the pics ive seen look like mine. I used a voltmeter and couldnt find a remote i could use.
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Old 06-16-12, 01:19 AM
  #212  
DIJohn46
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BigWill345 - looks to me like you have the infamous orange wire everyone keeps talking about. The clip in the middle that is by itself I'm assuming is the 2nd clip from the most rear which is to the right. If that orange thin wire on the end is what everyone keeps talking about then that should be your remote wire
Old 06-17-12, 10:50 PM
  #213  
BigWiLL345
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Originally Posted by DIJohn46
BigWill345 - looks to me like you have the infamous orange wire everyone keeps talking about. The clip in the middle that is by itself I'm assuming is the 2nd clip from the most rear which is to the right. If that orange thin wire on the end is what everyone keeps talking about then that should be your remote wire
Yea that was the one. I Finished my install last Wednesday sounds pretty good with my 4080 Enclosure.
Old 08-23-12, 04:30 PM
  #214  
ujelly350
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I need some help... I have power to my amp that's a non issue, however I am running LC2i for LOC. I originally tried tapping the green and brown, the LC2i runs off the line in and did not power on when I powered the car on. So next I tried the sky blue and pink. Same thing no power on the LOC. I am getting frustrated at tapping into lines and wonder if anyone can give me some guidance.
Old 08-23-12, 07:38 PM
  #215  
linus73
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Default lc2i

Originally Posted by ujelly350
I need some help... I have power to my amp that's a non issue, however I am running LC2i for LOC. I originally tried tapping the green and brown, the LC2i runs off the line in and did not power on when I powered the car on. So next I tried the sky blue and pink. Same thing no power on the LOC. I am getting frustrated at tapping into lines and wonder if anyone can give me some guidance.
the lc2i can turn on two ways! first you have to make sure to set the jumper, then you can either give it ignition or use the gto (great turn on) the gto senses when the music is on and then sends out the 12v remote power. i use the lc2i in my IS and i have both the rear door speaker wires going into it for a signal. the lc2i has a main output and and a sub out. i use the main output for a seperate 4ch amp to power some 6.5 4way pioneers, i also still have the factory amp playing the tweets and 3" mids, so 2 amps for mids/highs and 1 amp for bass, for a total of 3 amps in the car. and the sub out for my mmats 3000.5 amp for bass. the lc2i is awsome because it has acubass, doubles as a line driver too! i have the output from the lc2i set to 4v preouts, it will go to 9v if needed, this way you dont need the amp gains set high to get it loud and it keeps any unwanted noise from entering the system. the lc2i can be a bit tricky adjusting if you are a beginner, but it was not the case for me , as i have been installing car audio and alarms since 1993.
Old 11-01-12, 05:22 PM
  #216  
ChanceG
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Thanks for this write up and pics!!
Old 11-09-12, 05:30 AM
  #217  
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Interesting to hear this debate with tapping ONLY the sub wires vs tapping one set of door woofer wires and set of sub wires and summing them up as R and L inputs on the LOC. I wish there was a better consensus.

Logically though, it seems like taking two totally different signal levels wouldn't work and you would still be losing the door woofer input vs the sub input due to differing levels. The sub input being so much stronger than the woofer would drown out that side of things.

If you could independently increase sensitivity to just one stereo channel input then maybe.. but.. as it sits.. I don't see how tapping both would work correctly.
Old 12-03-12, 04:52 AM
  #218  
keyur246
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I want to wire the LOC to the stock sub wires, but if I do how would I go about disconnecting the stock sub so it doesn't play with my aftermarket subs? Also, if I decided to remove the sub from the rear deck, will there be any wires I can wire the LOC to? I am trying to stay away from splicing into the amp wires. Help is much appreciated, thank you!
Old 12-03-12, 05:47 AM
  #219  
Guccimane
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Thank you! Good job
Old 12-05-12, 04:03 PM
  #220  
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no one can help me out? i am planning on installing my subs and amp this friday!
Old 12-05-12, 04:14 PM
  #221  
Slammer1
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Simply unplug both connectors going to the sub (it is a dual voice coil). This will eliminate any chance of it playing. I personally removed mine, so that I have an opening to the trunk for the bass to travel through.

As for where to tap the wires and not tap them at the amp, just follow them back down to the main harness going to the amp, and tap them where you see appropriate.

In regards to the topic of tapping the door woofers as opposed to tapping the sub, I would have to think that the doors are crossed over at a higher frequency than the factory sub and that you would likely have a higher frequency signal (125hz or so and up), and could lose low bass frequencies if using that tap for your LOC. When I was still using the LOC, I tapped the sub wires and had no issues what so ever.
Old 12-05-12, 04:21 PM
  #222  
jsmacks
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I tapped a combination of one set of sub wires, one set of door woofer wires and left my stock sub hooked up.. and this after playing with all combinations.

With only the sub wires hooked up, the frequency response was annoyingly narrow.. as in 30Hz - 100Hz only. Once I used one set of door woofer wires, I was able to increase the bandwidth upwards. By leaving the stock sub in, it let even more mid-bass in which was nice since the trunk mounted sub can muffle that frequency range.
Old 12-05-12, 04:32 PM
  #223  
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Originally Posted by jsmacks
I tapped a combination of one set of sub wires, one set of door woofer wires and left my stock sub hooked up.. and this after playing with all combinations.

With only the sub wires hooked up, the frequency response was annoyingly narrow.. as in 30Hz - 100Hz only. Once I used one set of door woofer wires, I was able to increase the bandwidth upwards. By leaving the stock sub in, it let even more mid-bass in which was nice since the trunk mounted sub can muffle that frequency range.
I never play a sub that is crossed over above 80hz or so anyway, so using the sub tap worked for me. Above 80hz, you are into a mid-bass frequency, which is what I get from my doors anyway. What do you have your sub amp crossed over at?
Old 12-05-12, 05:26 PM
  #224  
916lexus
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cool...looking forward to doing mine later on.
Old 12-05-12, 08:10 PM
  #225  
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ahhh thank you guys, this helped me out a lot and cleared up all of my questions! will update after the install when i have time =]


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