Backup Camera
07-26-06, 11:55 PM
#17
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Page 546,
1. Cut the lt. Blue wire going to J50 pin 13
2. Cut the grey wire going to P2 pin 20
3. Connect the cut end of the lt. blue wire that goes to the harness to the end of the grey wire that goes to P2 pin 20 (bypasses the display "reverse" signal input that is tied high (+12V) on line 4. This allows the GPS to know if you are going forward or backwards.
4. Tie the end of the lt. blue wire that goes to J50 pin 13 to J50 pin 1 (ties the "Reverse" signal high +12V, always in reverse)
You may want to run this connection through a switch so you can use your display for something other than just a backup camera.
5. The remaining grey wire going to P1 pin 15 remains disconnected.
This is untested. I don't see the need to start cutting wires on a brand new $46,000 car but you never know...
1. Cut the lt. Blue wire going to J50 pin 13
2. Cut the grey wire going to P2 pin 20
3. Connect the cut end of the lt. blue wire that goes to the harness to the end of the grey wire that goes to P2 pin 20 (bypasses the display "reverse" signal input that is tied high (+12V) on line 4. This allows the GPS to know if you are going forward or backwards.
4. Tie the end of the lt. blue wire that goes to J50 pin 13 to J50 pin 1 (ties the "Reverse" signal high +12V, always in reverse)
You may want to run this connection through a switch so you can use your display for something other than just a backup camera.
5. The remaining grey wire going to P1 pin 15 remains disconnected.
This is untested. I don't see the need to start cutting wires on a brand new $46,000 car but you never know...
Last edited by Airwolf; 07-27-06 at 12:41 AM.
07-29-06, 03:32 AM
#18
Originally Posted by Airwolf
Page 546, ...
This is untested. I don't see the need to start cutting wires on a brand new $46,000 car but you never know...
This is untested. I don't see the need to start cutting wires on a brand new $46,000 car but you never know...
I hope finding time to do all the Nav/Camera Hack job during mid august...
An advise: do I need disconnecting the battery during this job, don't I? And after keeping the battery disconnected for some time, will I have to reinsert any codes? Security codes or so?
I haven't found any codes in the car manual and... but I wouldn't like to call for Lexus support after having cut those wires ;-)
Thanks and bye,
Gianluca
07-29-06, 05:51 AM
#19
Enhancing back camera usage...
Originally Posted by Airwolf
Page 546, ...
4. Tie the end of the lt. blue wire that goes to J50 pin 13 to J50 pin 1 (ties the "Reverse" signal high +12V, always in reverse)
You may want to run this connection through a switch so you can use your display for something other than just a backup camera. ...
4. Tie the end of the lt. blue wire that goes to J50 pin 13 to J50 pin 1 (ties the "Reverse" signal high +12V, always in reverse)
You may want to run this connection through a switch so you can use your display for something other than just a backup camera. ...
Probably the best way would be, instead of a simple switch, to enhance your idea with a component ("enhanced switch?" sorry I'm not skilled in electronics...) with 3 connectors (and an on/off switch):
A (input): from J50 P1 (direct from battery, +12V)
B (input): int. blue wire, from harness (reverse status, zero or +12V)
C (input): from on/off switch
D (output): to J50 pin 13 (for reverse status sensing, switches ON the Camera when +12V)
Hypothesis:
A = +12V always
B = +12V only if you're going in reverse
This switching component, should deliver this simple status to 'C' output:
if B = +12V or C = ON // you are in reverse OR you wanna force the camera ON (switch ON)
then D = A // it means you shortcircuit D with the +12V battery (camera ON)
else D = disconnected // it means camera is OFF
Does it make sense?
Problem: what kind of electrical component could accomplish what I stated above?
Thanks
Last edited by gmeardi; 07-29-06 at 06:00 AM.
07-29-06, 06:12 AM
#20
Super Moderator
Originally Posted by gmeardi
Many thanks!
I hope finding time to do all the Nav/Camera Hack job during mid august...
An advise: do I need disconnecting the battery during this job, don't I? And after keeping the battery disconnected for some time, will I have to reinsert any codes? Security codes or so?
I haven't found any codes in the car manual and... but I wouldn't like to call for Lexus support after having cut those wires ;-)
Thanks and bye,
Gianluca
I hope finding time to do all the Nav/Camera Hack job during mid august...
An advise: do I need disconnecting the battery during this job, don't I? And after keeping the battery disconnected for some time, will I have to reinsert any codes? Security codes or so?
I haven't found any codes in the car manual and... but I wouldn't like to call for Lexus support after having cut those wires ;-)
Thanks and bye,
Gianluca
07-29-06, 08:02 AM
#21
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I could be wrong, but Lexus has a tendancy to trigger things via ground.
I checked the schematic, I'd be inclined to agree with Airwolf that the trigger is positive +12V, but the way it is wired up, it is a signal from the Body ECU - The body ECU receives +12V, and could invert the signal before passing it. There is the possibility that it needs -12V Ground.
-Brian
I checked the schematic, I'd be inclined to agree with Airwolf that the trigger is positive +12V, but the way it is wired up, it is a signal from the Body ECU - The body ECU receives +12V, and could invert the signal before passing it. There is the possibility that it needs -12V Ground.
-Brian
07-29-06, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by rys
I could be wrong, but Lexus has a tendancy to trigger things via ground.
I checked the schematic, I'd be inclined to agree with Airwolf that the trigger is positive +12V, but the way it is wired up, it is a signal from the Body ECU - The body ECU receives +12V, and could invert the signal before passing it. There is the possibility that it needs -12V Ground.
-Brian
I checked the schematic, I'd be inclined to agree with Airwolf that the trigger is positive +12V, but the way it is wired up, it is a signal from the Body ECU - The body ECU receives +12V, and could invert the signal before passing it. There is the possibility that it needs -12V Ground.
-Brian
J51-13 Camera Power Supply (0V or 6V from Multi-Display)
If you give 12V to J50-13, Multi-Display will switch its display to camera and also give it 6V.
07-29-06, 08:33 PM
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It's triggered by +12V, I verified it via the troubleshooting guide which states that this signal is +12V when the transmission is in reverse.
So you want a "Normal/Always on" switch?
This could be done with a simple Double-Pole, Double-Throw (DPDT) switch but where would you feel comfortable drilling a hole in the dash of a brand new luxery car just so you can use a TV camera instead of your rear-view mirror?
So you want a "Normal/Always on" switch?
This could be done with a simple Double-Pole, Double-Throw (DPDT) switch but where would you feel comfortable drilling a hole in the dash of a brand new luxery car just so you can use a TV camera instead of your rear-view mirror?
07-29-06, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Airwolf
It's triggered by +12V, I verified it via the troubleshooting guide which states that this signal is +12V when the transmission is in reverse.
So you want a "Normal/Always on" switch?
This could be done with a simple Double-Pole, Double-Throw (DPDT) switch but where would you feel comfortable drilling a hole in the dash of a brand new luxery car just so you can use a TV camera instead of your rear-view mirror?
So you want a "Normal/Always on" switch?
This could be done with a simple Double-Pole, Double-Throw (DPDT) switch but where would you feel comfortable drilling a hole in the dash of a brand new luxery car just so you can use a TV camera instead of your rear-view mirror?
08-21-06, 08:36 PM
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Hello Everyone,
I am new here ,but I have had some experience in mods in various vehicles in an attempt to make it look "factory". I agree with Payam in that the switch bank to the left of the steering column would be an excellent location for this switch. We could try to identify a Lexus switch which would fit the blank spot and then use a relay to give it the DPDT property if it did not have it already. I hope this makes sense. My car is actually on a train heading to Chicago at this moment so I can not go too much further just yet.
It would be great if someone could actually test the whole concept with any DPDT switch. If indeed it works, then we can try to find something to make it look "factory".
Just my $ .02 FWIW
I am new here ,but I have had some experience in mods in various vehicles in an attempt to make it look "factory". I agree with Payam in that the switch bank to the left of the steering column would be an excellent location for this switch. We could try to identify a Lexus switch which would fit the blank spot and then use a relay to give it the DPDT property if it did not have it already. I hope this makes sense. My car is actually on a train heading to Chicago at this moment so I can not go too much further just yet.
It would be great if someone could actually test the whole concept with any DPDT switch. If indeed it works, then we can try to find something to make it look "factory".
Just my $ .02 FWIW
08-21-06, 08:45 PM
#27
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Sounds like a good idea, I wouldn't mind cutting into a few wires, just make sure you do it neatly and safely and can always be put back to stock as close as possible... I will be picking up my 350 tomorrow, but how is this camera at night? I breifly looked at the camera but not the picture at the dealer, didnt appear to be any special kind of infrared, im guessing, its just a color low light capable camera? Or does it greatly rely on the reverse lights to provide light at night?
09-29-06, 04:15 PM
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Success!
While performing the mods for Nav and installing VaisTech SLI iPod integration, I decided to work on the backup camera override that Airwolfe had described. As it turned out, this was a very simple mod. The "Blue" wire on pin 13 of connector J50 is the one to work with. This is immediately next to the well known and described "Pink" wire of the J50 connector fame.
To bore you with the details; J50 pin 13 "Blue" wire is the trigger which switches the Multi-Display to the camera mode. This is a +12v trigger, not the neg ground that has been mentioned here. This receives it's signal from JQ1 (which you really don't need to know).
To provide the override you must send a +12v signal to pin 13. The way I have accomplished this is by cutting the "Blue" wire. I re-routed this wire through a relay which in the NC (normally closed or non-energized) position the wire acts as though it was never cut and is as originally wired. Once the relay is energized, this wire is broken and the connector end is connected to a +12v source. This then tells the Multi-Display to switch to the rear camera. I used the +12v from the "Orange" wire on connector J50. It is from the Accessory circuit and therefore only energized when the ignition is on. This is seen in the schematic below.
Then I decided it would be nice to have an indicator LED to remind me that I am switched on to the modification. This was accomplished through the other side of the DPDT relay. To keep this simple I created a pdf schematic showing how I did this and with the part numbers for the relay and switch.
I then routed the switch to the left side of the steering column and used on of the "dummy" plugs adjacent to the shade switch. I have a photo of this. I will try to upload it if I can figure out how.
This worked beautifully the first time. It does not interfere with the navigation so there is no delay for "catch-up" when you turn the switch off. here was no need to interfere with the gray wire that Airwolfe had suggested as a possibile need. I belive that with a review of the schematic and this information, you will find this an easy modification. Now that I have done it, I'm just not sure why I need it.
I hope this helps and answers the questions that only testing as this can provide.
To bore you with the details; J50 pin 13 "Blue" wire is the trigger which switches the Multi-Display to the camera mode. This is a +12v trigger, not the neg ground that has been mentioned here. This receives it's signal from JQ1 (which you really don't need to know).
To provide the override you must send a +12v signal to pin 13. The way I have accomplished this is by cutting the "Blue" wire. I re-routed this wire through a relay which in the NC (normally closed or non-energized) position the wire acts as though it was never cut and is as originally wired. Once the relay is energized, this wire is broken and the connector end is connected to a +12v source. This then tells the Multi-Display to switch to the rear camera. I used the +12v from the "Orange" wire on connector J50. It is from the Accessory circuit and therefore only energized when the ignition is on. This is seen in the schematic below.
Then I decided it would be nice to have an indicator LED to remind me that I am switched on to the modification. This was accomplished through the other side of the DPDT relay. To keep this simple I created a pdf schematic showing how I did this and with the part numbers for the relay and switch.
I then routed the switch to the left side of the steering column and used on of the "dummy" plugs adjacent to the shade switch. I have a photo of this. I will try to upload it if I can figure out how.
This worked beautifully the first time. It does not interfere with the navigation so there is no delay for "catch-up" when you turn the switch off. here was no need to interfere with the gray wire that Airwolfe had suggested as a possibile need. I belive that with a review of the schematic and this information, you will find this an easy modification. Now that I have done it, I'm just not sure why I need it.
I hope this helps and answers the questions that only testing as this can provide.
Last edited by Lexellent; 09-29-06 at 04:23 PM.
09-29-06, 05:12 PM
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While performing the mods for Nav and installing VaisTech SLI iPod integration, I decided to work on the backup camera override that Airwolfe had described. As it turned out, this was a very simple mod. The "Blue" wire on pin 13 of connector J50 is the one to work with. This is immediately next to the well known and described "Pink" wire of the J50 connector fame.
To bore you with the details; J50 pin 13 "Blue" wire is the trigger which switches the Multi-Display to the camera mode. This is a +12v trigger, not the neg ground that has been mentioned here. This receives it's signal from JQ1 (which you really don't need to know).
To provide the override you must send a +12v signal to pin 13. The way I have accomplished this is by cutting the "Blue" wire. I re-routed this wire through a relay which in the NC (normally closed or non-energized) position the wire acts as though it was never cut and is as originally wired. Once the relay is energized, this wire is broken and the connector end is connected to a +12v source. This then tells the Multi-Display to switch to the rear camera. I used the +12v from the "Orange" wire on connector J50. It is from the Accessory circuit and therefore only energized when the ignition is on. This is seen in the schematic below.
Then I decided it would be nice to have an indicator LED to remind me that I am switched on to the modification. This was accomplished through the other side of the DPDT relay. To keep this simple I created a pdf schematic showing how I did this and with the part numbers for the relay and switch.
I then routed the switch to the left side of the steering column and used on of the "dummy" plugs adjacent to the shade switch. I have a photo of this. I will try to upload it if I can figure out how.
This worked beautifully the first time. It does not interfere with the navigation so there is no delay for "catch-up" when you turn the switch off. here was no need to interfere with the gray wire that Airwolfe had suggested as a possibile need. I belive that with a review of the schematic and this information, you will find this an easy modification. Now that I have done it, I'm just not sure why I need it.
I hope this helps and answers the questions that only testing as this can provide.
To bore you with the details; J50 pin 13 "Blue" wire is the trigger which switches the Multi-Display to the camera mode. This is a +12v trigger, not the neg ground that has been mentioned here. This receives it's signal from JQ1 (which you really don't need to know).
To provide the override you must send a +12v signal to pin 13. The way I have accomplished this is by cutting the "Blue" wire. I re-routed this wire through a relay which in the NC (normally closed or non-energized) position the wire acts as though it was never cut and is as originally wired. Once the relay is energized, this wire is broken and the connector end is connected to a +12v source. This then tells the Multi-Display to switch to the rear camera. I used the +12v from the "Orange" wire on connector J50. It is from the Accessory circuit and therefore only energized when the ignition is on. This is seen in the schematic below.
Then I decided it would be nice to have an indicator LED to remind me that I am switched on to the modification. This was accomplished through the other side of the DPDT relay. To keep this simple I created a pdf schematic showing how I did this and with the part numbers for the relay and switch.
I then routed the switch to the left side of the steering column and used on of the "dummy" plugs adjacent to the shade switch. I have a photo of this. I will try to upload it if I can figure out how.
This worked beautifully the first time. It does not interfere with the navigation so there is no delay for "catch-up" when you turn the switch off. here was no need to interfere with the gray wire that Airwolfe had suggested as a possibile need. I belive that with a review of the schematic and this information, you will find this an easy modification. Now that I have done it, I'm just not sure why I need it.
I hope this helps and answers the questions that only testing as this can provide.
