Nicelex13

hey Tuxlex, I'm planning on doing this today or tomorrow, and your method seems like the most painless. One question though, after you installed the connection, where did you hide the excess wires and the little box that the V-1 hardwire kit comes with? thanks

RCFormante

iTrader: (1)

Kensteele's way is much better because there is no need to solder any wires together, just straight to the fuse.

foofighter

agreed but you can also use a wire tap to do the same without soldering

rys

Not sure where Tuxlex went, I bet he doesn't check the forums as often as some of us addicts.

Anyway, the way Tuxlex installed his would technically not require the V1 hardwire kit at all. (You could use the cable from the kit if you wanted).

Basically it's just taking the cable that connects to the V1 and cutting it, then soldering the cable directly into the wire for the Auto Dimming Rear View Mirror /w Homelink and Compass.

As mentioned in my instructions, please be careful of dripping solder, our interiors are not very forgiving of hot molten metal.

-Brian

Nicelex13

Yeah, was waiting for his reply, but I would like to do this today!!
Also, I'm not planning on soldering...but rather using wire taps to directly tap into the power and ground of the existing wires.
Also, from tuxlex's install, it looked like he used the red/black wires to wire...? not just the phonecord

rys

I'm looking at his pictures, that's definitely regular telephone RJ11 cord that is stripped down to the red and green wires. (Phone cable uses red and green on the inside).

He must not have used a V1 cable because the official V1 cables actually are 4 conductor, and I only see 2 in the center. .) (V1 uses the other leads to communicate with the other devices like the remote display and audio relocation).

-Brian

Nicelex13

ok so rys, basically i can just cut open the telephone wire and wire tap those 2 cords...are the v1 cords the same as regular lines i.e.-red and green, and just leave the other 2 wires unconnected?

rys

Yes, the V1 cord is the same as a regular phone cord. Personally, I'd go red to + and green to -, but as Tuxlex posted, it does not matter. (V1 is polarity protected).

The yellow and black can remain unconnected, and you can cut them off if you are not using them.

Let me know if you have any other questions.

-Brian

P.S. I still recommend the hardwire kit in the overhead trick, especially if you are not very good at soldering. This is mostly good because you can crimp it to install it. -- Depending on the soldering iron, you should be aware that the solder can flow down from the tip, and around the heating element - sometimes in large quantity (especially when the soldering iron is angled where the tip is above the hand piece, such as when soldering an overhead connection).

Nicelex13

I absolutly have no idea what kind of screw is in there? I have a screw kit with 30 bits and still no avail...

rys

Torx 20 like someone said.. (Tuxlex?)



-Brian

Nicelex13

yeah nevermind, im an idiot, i reread the post and found it...
however, i dont think there is enough room to put 2 wiretaps in there (t-taps/ guage)
plus, theres a black cover that fell off of the rearview mirror and im not sure how it goes back on

rys

Personally, I bought a Spec Tools STK-4042 set (Available at Crutchfield, and also direct from Spec Tools). Best tool screwdriver set I've ever owned, and probably the last I'll ever have to buy.

-Brian

rys

The cover is a slide extension cover. First start by putting the mirror back on to the vehicle. Next place the cover on to the top of the mirror mount and slide it open.

Also there's a clip that should hold the wires to the rear view mirror. That should just snap in place.

-Brian

(edited for accuracy)

Nicelex13

yup, the tool set i have has a t-20
too bad i have to go though the roof liner and install though moon roof conections now

rys

It's easy, see my write up on page 3

Let me know if you have any trouble! Good luck

-Brian