tromly

+1 Gernby, excellent idea!!

FisforFast

I'm sure it's been mentionned already, but I'll go through it just in case. A couple of tips.

1. A good thing to do would be to change the crush gasket on the oil drain plug. That washer basically crushes with the pressure to create a perfect seal between the oil pan on the drain plug, and once the plug has been removed it is preferable that this washer be changed.

2. The smaller gasket provided with the filter is for the oil filter housing's drain plug. You can open a small drain plug in the middle of the oil filter housing that will drain out all of the oil in the filter. If you do this, you will need to change the small gasket on the oil filter housing's drain plug. If not, you may discard the small gasket.

3. The large gasket may be missing from the oil filter housing when you remove it. If so, fish around inside the immovable part of the housing. The last thing you want is a double gasket, which can cause a massive leak.

4. Before draining the oil from the pan a good idea would be to pop the hood open and remove the oil filler cap. This will help the oil drain faster and more efficiently. The cap being off will also remind you that there is no oil in the car and thus not to start it.

5. Being on level ground will provide maximum drainage of used up oil. Jacking up one side of your car is thus not a very good idea imho.

6. Another good idea would be to put 3 or 4 quarts of oil in your engine, tighten down the oil filler cap and start up the engine for thirty seconds. Then, gage the level with the dipstick and add oil until you're at the 'full' or 'max' mark on it. Make sure you're on level ground.

There's more but I can't think of any right now.

Zmunch

Just picked up our new 2009 AWD IS 250. Was reading the oil change thread. One Question. Is the oil filter located underneath or on top of the engine. Don`t want to get the ramps out yet. Thanks

Gernby

iTrader: (1)

It is underneat the engine, but if you just picked up the car, why are you talking about ramps? You shouldn't change the oil for at least 3K miles. It's been shown by UOA analysis that the break-in oil is stll pretty good after 3 years and 8K miles.

Dave_IS250

iTrader: (1)

I just changed my oil for the first time on my is250awd last night.

The oil filter is located underneath the car, close to the drivers side front bumper. The few DIY oil change are for 350's and 250 rwd and the oil filter is located in a different place. There is only 1 bolt to take off to access the oil filter, and then you have to hold the flap back or else it will get in your way. (I rest it up against my gfx front lip and it stayed out of my way).

I also got the oil filter at a local toyota dealership for $5 and some change.

I thought about doing a DIY but it would take too long to take pictures of everything. I also rotated my tires, changed the air filter, and cabin filter, so it would prob taken me like 2 hours if I did a DIY. I'll put one together next oil change if no one else has for an AWD.

Let me know if you have any questions.

04Caddy

great write up..

foldthenut

Question about the Fumoto valve. I have a 2009 IS250 and was wondering if anyone is using the valve with the nipple? Fumoto's site says not for passenger cars with low clearances, and I was wondering if our cars were considered "low clearance."

Thanks

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't say it's low clearance, but I would say the Fumoto valve with a nipple would be a less than good idea just because there's not much below the drain bolt on the oil pan, so it will be just asking to get whacked by road debris.

I'm really intrigued by the Fumoto valves, but coming from motorcycle road racing where we safety wire any and all drain bolts and lots of engine bolts, it just seems a tad risky. Maybe I need to change my paradigm.

hipertech

pics dont work OP... please fix it if you can

Lexustom

I have used Fumoto valves on all my varied cars for over 24 years without one problem. Not one. Cumulative that would be in the hundreds of thousands of miles. Currently have one on all three of my cars which includes my IS350. I highly recommend them.

LyleBeach

iTrader: (1)

x2 yes please!

MIA IS250

Drain plug torque to 30 ft/lb
Oil filter canister torque to 18 ft/lb

kjmurphy

This seems like a great post, but without the pics it is useless. Someone please post pics.

jaxxx

so whats the concensus on the best tool to get the oil filter out?

fredkhaz

Hello everyone
Thanks to "lobuxracer" for his posting
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/2239505-post27.html

I just found a Oil Filter wrench for IS350 Made by CTA MANUFACTURING CORP. part number #2485 my local toyota dealer had it in stock. I bought the Autozone "F" and I couldnt get housing open with it.
I just bought the CTA so i will try it tonight. Hopefully it will work.

UPDATE
AND YES IT FIT PERFECTLY.