Leander311

iTrader: (2)

TRD Part number is PTR43-00082

I've done 10k mile OCI's on this filter using Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 with great UOA feedback. I'm about to switch to German Castrol since I've got a ~30 quart stash of it in the garage, originally intended for my now-total'd Mazdaspeed 3. As a group IV base stock with a huge following on BITOG, GC should also work very well in this car.

Cheers,
Nick

Kurtz

iTrader: (1)

Folks have had great UOAs on the OEM filter at 10k miles...(in fact I've never seen a bad one with only 10k on the oil on a 2IS regardless of what is used)...but not so great by 15k...that's why I recommend changing the filter at 10-12k if one is planning to run their oil to 20+k...

If you're changing every 10 you're probably wasting $ on the nicer oil filter.... if you're planning to run the Group IV castrol in the 15-25k type range without a filter change however please let us know how the OCIs come out... I'd love to hear there's a filter that's good for those mileage ranges.

Leander311

iTrader: (2)

Interesting Kurtz, I had looked for UOA data on this engine back a year or so ago when I bought my IS but had trouble finding much useful info... Do you mind sharing some links of these UOA's to which you refer?

I'll likely be doing 10k OCI's on the Castrol unless the UOA's come back pristine, in which case 15k is about the edge (no pun intended) of my comfort limit. Extra $$$ spent on a nicer filter and/or oil is certainly subjective (despite ocassional doses of objectivity displayed by those of us who are able), but I personally don't mind spending an extra few bucks on the TRD filter for the peace of mind that comes with full synthetic media. The "regular" Toyota filter is certainly a quality part, but I don't trust the longevity of cellulose over extended intervals.

How do you like your F-Sport Sways? I'm pretty sure I'm going with the rear sway when I add my F-sport/Bilstein springs/shocks, but not 110% sure yet.

greyIS25

iTrader: (2)

Sorry to bring this up, but does anyone know where I can just buy a pack of the oil filter o-rings that goes on the cap?

othater

What happen to the pics?

yjy4321

It is going to be the first oil change by myself.

I just want to start with right parts.

My car is 2010 IS 250 RWD Automatic.

Things I want to buy are

1. Oil filter element (04152-YZZA3)
2. Drain plug gasket (90430-12031)
3. Small O ring (96723-35028)
4. Big O ring (90301-79006)

First, are these the right part numbers?
Second, I saw from somewhere that RWD does not have (or does not need) a small O ring. Is this information correct?
Third, does the Oil filter element come with a big O ring or a small O ring or both?
Lastly, is there anything else I need to buy?

zaitcev

I did not find the small O-ring. 2009 IS 250 RWD.

zaitcev

Jackstand position

Finding a suitable jacking spot was a bit difficult, because the normal jack has a slot for the sill seam. If car is lowered on a jack stand where the stock jack goes, the seam is going to get crushed and become a rust spot. Not sure if the lower rear joint of the lower control arm is optimal, but there was no obvious damage at least.

zaitcev

Tilting

Our 4GR-FSE has an unconventional drain position on the side of a wide oil pan. This allows to drain more oil out by lifting the left side of the car up temporarily.

zaitcev

Pliers

I had to use joint pliers to unscrew the filter housing. There's not enough space for my hand to get a good enough grip. It was easy enough to put it back on though.

zaitcev

TG10158

The Fram TG10158 set included large and small O-rings, as well as a drain valve (or maybe adapter). I knew to discard the plastic doohickey, but I wasn't sure if the small O-ring was needed. There was no small O-ring installed at the dealership at the previous oil change, so I just put everything together without.

zaitcev

Washers

For whatever reason, Toyota uses weird blue paint over some light metal instead of copper washers. BTW, the old washer sticks to the pan quite well and I had to knock it off with a flat screwdriver.