Problem still not fixed need HELP!!!
#1
Driver
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Problem still not fixed need HELP!!!
i just spent 300 on struts + 2 installed, oil change 40$, gaskets 500, both front ball joints 400, and im trying to find this sound coming from the front i have no idea what it is its a moving part like the cv joint or something in the front that moves when the car moves slowing down or speeding up is when u hear it when ur going u wont hear it but youll feel it like the cars being held back by something u can feel it in the peddle now & it sounds like a whewwww wheewww whewwww whewwww wheewww wheewwww whewww....??? HELP PLZ
#4
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It sounds like its the wheel bearing, i had the same issue as you did. Didn't make noises of what a wheel bearing would make and it wouldn't feel like it would coast as smoothly after i was going fast. Jack your car up and hold your wheel at 9 and 3 oclock and see if it teeter tots back and forth, Do a 12 and 6 oclock as well. If it teeter tots or if it you feels like there a gap in the wheel, then its a bad bearing. I wouldn't see what else would make the WHEWWW WHEWW noise other then something spinning while your going moving. If you need more information about changing your wheel bearing and cut the coast of spending alot, PM me and ill tell you what i did to only spend 200 bucks.
#5
Driver
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#6
Driver
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Not yet Buddy
I mean the sounds been going on for a while since i got the car but has gotten worse and is now to the point where its unbearable to hear....i didnt replace the wheel bearings yet so no to that...could worn out struts make this sound? the feeling in the peddle & a drag in accelration? from the tires no way...ive had them replaced and just no way unless can the front rims go on the back and the back on the front? does tire size matter on these cars? whats the technical defintion for off set?? i just dont think its the tires or struts the new struts were suppose to be put on today but that fell threw....but honestly i can feel it in the steering wheel, peddle, turning, braking, & accelarating...ill look into gettin these wheel bearings ASAP....by the time i figure this sheet out ill have spent over or almost 2g's fml smh thats a 2jz-gte motor or man trans & lsd....again smh fml
#7
Driver
Thread Starter
Maybe
It sounds like its the wheel bearing, i had the same issue as you did. Didn't make noises of what a wheel bearing would make and it wouldn't feel like it would coast as smoothly after i was going fast. Jack your car up and hold your wheel at 9 and 3 oclock and see if it teeter tots back and forth, Do a 12 and 6 oclock as well. If it teeter tots or if it you feels like there a gap in the wheel, then its a bad bearing. I wouldn't see what else would make the WHEWWW WHEWW noise other then something spinning while your going moving. If you need more information about changing your wheel bearing and cut the coast of spending alot, PM me and ill tell you what i did to only spend 200 bucks.
Bingo yeah my man it slows down extremely fast....almost to fast after i get going on the highway and let off the gas & it seems like its taking alot more effort to actually speed up/slow down when actually braking....it dont coast and it definitely dont slow down smoothly it slows down extremely fast as i say it again....noticing ive already said that.....i swear though my wheel wont teeter or tot could it still be the wheel bearing? when im turning sometimes it feels like im turning in segments especially when straightening out i can feel it in the steering wheel...like when its straightening out feels like its slipping back into place like sliding almost.....something spinning? what could be spinning? thats what it sounds like like something is spinning....but only while im moving well duh i guess huh but yah...
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#8
Pole Position
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I also think its a wheel bearing. If it is you cant get them out completely on your own. You can pull the spindle (assembly that holds the wheel on, held on by 3 ball joints). and take it to someone who can press out the bearing and press in new ones. They cost alot but you can get them at advanced. I would buy the bearing seal from the dealer because aftermarket ones fit like crap. Good luck
#10
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I also think its a wheel bearing. If it is you cant get them out completely on your own. You can pull the spindle (assembly that holds the wheel on, held on by 3 ball joints). and take it to someone who can press out the bearing and press in new ones. They cost alot but you can get them at advanced. I would buy the bearing seal from the dealer because aftermarket ones fit like crap. Good luck
#11
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may bay
damn yeah i got a couple shops i go to that gimme a better tag then a dealer.... i have a feeling u guys maybe are right.....so besides the acutal bearings themselves what other parts would i need when replacing them?
#12
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All you need is the Wheel Bearing, thats all i needed. I took it to a shop and they pressed out the old ones for me and pressed in the new ones for me. I recommend buying the bearings from Lexus, it might be a little bit more but i rather have the right part unlike NAPA, they ordered me the wrong ones... And also.. please take it to a professional who know's what there doing, one little thing thats done wrong with these bearings.. it'll go bad in seconds!
#13
Driver
Thread Starter
T.y.
All you need is the Wheel Bearing, thats all i needed. I took it to a shop and they pressed out the old ones for me and pressed in the new ones for me. I recommend buying the bearings from Lexus, it might be a little bit more but i rather have the right part unlike NAPA, they ordered me the wrong ones... And also.. please take it to a professional who know's what there doing, one little thing thats done wrong with these bearings.. it'll go bad in seconds!
#15
Lead Lap
iTrader: (1)
You say you feel like the car's acceleration is being held back, and it makes noise when acceleration and slowing down. Have you checked your front brakes? The pads may not be on right, you may be missing the pad clips (or possibly damaged), or maybe you have a sticky caliper. Pull the bolt on one of your caliper's slide pins, and rotate it so you can do an inspection. With a small C-Clamp, the caliper piston should push back pretty easily. I was able to do it by hand.
Here's what the pad clips should look like:
Remove 1 of the 2 bolts, and the caliper will rotate exposing the pads and pistons.
Here's a pic of the caliper removed completely (you only need to remove 1 bolt for your purposes).
IIRC, the slide pin bolt gets torqued to 25 FT-LBS.
Here's what the pad clips should look like:
Remove 1 of the 2 bolts, and the caliper will rotate exposing the pads and pistons.
Here's a pic of the caliper removed completely (you only need to remove 1 bolt for your purposes).
IIRC, the slide pin bolt gets torqued to 25 FT-LBS.