Built on the floor: My '02 non VVTI jdm --> USDM GTE swap NOW WITH A PIC OR TWO!
07-12-11, 07:43 AM
#16
Rookie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: FL
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
theres a few ways to make it work. ive seen some guys trim the fan shroud cover to fit the piping. im going with one oem fan and one skinny fan
GTEs motor mounts and mounting spots must vary. we tried using the GE motor mounts in different mounting locations and it didnt work. we had
to go custom
GTEs motor mounts and mounting spots must vary. we tried using the GE motor mounts in different mounting locations and it didnt work. we had
to go custom
07-12-11, 10:04 AM
#17
Rookie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: FL
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Here is what I'm talking about with the motor mount locations. The first pic is of the stock vvti GE engine. Notice how there are several mounting holes. This is the passenger side of the block. I have learned of two different styles of GTE blocks lately. One, the older style, does not have as many mounting locations from what I gather. The newer ones have this set up. This is what allowed me to utilize the stock is300 mounts.
07-12-11, 12:59 PM
#20
Here is what I'm talking about with the motor mount locations. The first pic is of the stock vvti GE engine. Notice how there are several mounting holes. This is the passenger side of the block. I have learned of two different styles of GTE blocks lately. One, the older style, does not have as many mounting locations from what I gather. The newer ones have this set up. This is what allowed me to utilize the stock is300 mounts.
07-14-11, 03:26 PM
#23
Rookie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: FL
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thought I would toss a little update. All but 7 wires are hooked up and good to go. The last few are minor things like a/c with the exception of main relay power for the fuel pump and IACV. The motor cranked last night with no issues, and so far, we have no unexpected warning lights or issues. The manifold comes in on tuesday and hopefully this one wont have been welded by Michael j fox on a speed binge. Everything should be good to go on my end very soon as far as being able to start the car and making sure it atleast idles correctly. More pics are up, and videos will come as we progress. Look for a start up video within a couple weeks!
07-16-11, 11:20 PM
#26
Rookie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: FL
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, with the exception of wiring in water temp, oil pressure and level dummy lights, A/C, and reverse lights, everything is done. I shortened up every wire in the engine/chassis harness connections tonight. One wire at a time. BUT, everything tucks up and fits in the stock ECU box and it will bolt down snug. It isn't pretty as of yet under there. But I will be able to get in there and wrap up everything nice and neat over time. Pics updated on the link. As soon as I can figure out what's causing a miscommunication error with my MAPecu and laptop, I can load the supra USDM 550cc base map and the car should be driveable.
Manifold get's in Tuesday. Exhaust and intercooler piping are scheduled to start wednesday. This thing is stupid close to being finished. And after a year of planning, buying, and wrenching, I can tell you that I am super damn excited for it. Videos of first start up will be coming soon.
Manifold get's in Tuesday. Exhaust and intercooler piping are scheduled to start wednesday. This thing is stupid close to being finished. And after a year of planning, buying, and wrenching, I can tell you that I am super damn excited for it. Videos of first start up will be coming soon.
07-24-11, 08:52 PM
#29
Rookie
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: FL
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well, it's been a few days since I have updated the thread. I figured I would let everyone know what's going on currently with the car.
My manifold finally came in last week. While it's still a cheap "ebay" manifold, I have read good things about the OBX t4 manifolds they are selling. Only real cracking complaints have been with the wastegate runner cracking under weight and vibration. Shorten it up, brace it, should be problem prevented/solved.
Everything else in the car has been completed with the exception of hooking up the oil pressure and level dummy lights, and the water temp gauge. These are controlled through the multiplex and we have yet to track down exactly how to by pass the system for these things. I picked up a cheap autometer water temp gauge for the time being, and I'm forgoing the dummy lights for the next couple of weeks while we work on a solution. A/C has been hooked up, but not wired in. That is also controlled through the multiplex in the car, and we are going to have a hell of a time figuring this one out I think. Easy solution for me is to wire up a toggle switch for the condenser to kick on, BUT, I'd like to use the stock control button. We will lose the automatic feature, and that I am OK with. Never use it anyway.
I did the ABS speed sensor mod for the 5spd since I've lost my is300 ecu. This will allow me to swap in any transmission from here on out and still retain a speedo. Real easy mod to accomplish, with the exception being I can't de-pin an is300 electrical connector to save my life. Those little bastards are tricky. If anyone has a tip, I'd love to hear it! lol
The car went out to a company called Speed Fab here in Jacksonville on Wednesday. She was towed over, and I'm expecting to be able to drive her home by Friday of this coming week. This part of the build is the only part I will not be doing in my one car townhouse garage. I don't know how to weld yet, nor do I have a welder or room to operate one with much comfort. So, I saved up some cash over the course of the build to have the exhaust and charge piping fabricated. I had bought all the piping from ebay for the exhaust, and was given a universal intercooler piping kit that was 2.5" decently thick aluminum.
The exhaust will be a 3" from turbo back, split into two sections with 2 v band flanges. One at the turbo, and one halfway back. There will only be a small resonator inline to help smooth out the tone. No muffler for now, if ever. We will see how she sounds. May end up having to quiet it down since this will be a daily driven multi-use car. The intercooler piping is pretty straight forward, with the exception of the intake tube on the turbo. I didn't see a need to relocate the ABS block, but instead manipulated the lines, and re ran the large brake reservoir feed line. My Tial Q 50mm bov will be installed in the bumper somewhere as there is VERY little room for it inside the engine bay. This motor is a tight fit.
I have retained stock fans, and everything else I could keep under the engine bay with the exception of the stock air box. Eventually, I would like to modify the stock air box to work with my single set up to retain a factory look. All I have left to purchase is an intake pipe and filter, along with a breather filter for the valve cover. After that, and a tune of the map ecu, she should be good to go. I'll post a start up video by the end of this week hopefully. Wish me luck on the first start up! More to come...
My manifold finally came in last week. While it's still a cheap "ebay" manifold, I have read good things about the OBX t4 manifolds they are selling. Only real cracking complaints have been with the wastegate runner cracking under weight and vibration. Shorten it up, brace it, should be problem prevented/solved.
Everything else in the car has been completed with the exception of hooking up the oil pressure and level dummy lights, and the water temp gauge. These are controlled through the multiplex and we have yet to track down exactly how to by pass the system for these things. I picked up a cheap autometer water temp gauge for the time being, and I'm forgoing the dummy lights for the next couple of weeks while we work on a solution. A/C has been hooked up, but not wired in. That is also controlled through the multiplex in the car, and we are going to have a hell of a time figuring this one out I think. Easy solution for me is to wire up a toggle switch for the condenser to kick on, BUT, I'd like to use the stock control button. We will lose the automatic feature, and that I am OK with. Never use it anyway.
I did the ABS speed sensor mod for the 5spd since I've lost my is300 ecu. This will allow me to swap in any transmission from here on out and still retain a speedo. Real easy mod to accomplish, with the exception being I can't de-pin an is300 electrical connector to save my life. Those little bastards are tricky. If anyone has a tip, I'd love to hear it! lol
The car went out to a company called Speed Fab here in Jacksonville on Wednesday. She was towed over, and I'm expecting to be able to drive her home by Friday of this coming week. This part of the build is the only part I will not be doing in my one car townhouse garage. I don't know how to weld yet, nor do I have a welder or room to operate one with much comfort. So, I saved up some cash over the course of the build to have the exhaust and charge piping fabricated. I had bought all the piping from ebay for the exhaust, and was given a universal intercooler piping kit that was 2.5" decently thick aluminum.
The exhaust will be a 3" from turbo back, split into two sections with 2 v band flanges. One at the turbo, and one halfway back. There will only be a small resonator inline to help smooth out the tone. No muffler for now, if ever. We will see how she sounds. May end up having to quiet it down since this will be a daily driven multi-use car. The intercooler piping is pretty straight forward, with the exception of the intake tube on the turbo. I didn't see a need to relocate the ABS block, but instead manipulated the lines, and re ran the large brake reservoir feed line. My Tial Q 50mm bov will be installed in the bumper somewhere as there is VERY little room for it inside the engine bay. This motor is a tight fit.
I have retained stock fans, and everything else I could keep under the engine bay with the exception of the stock air box. Eventually, I would like to modify the stock air box to work with my single set up to retain a factory look. All I have left to purchase is an intake pipe and filter, along with a breather filter for the valve cover. After that, and a tune of the map ecu, she should be good to go. I'll post a start up video by the end of this week hopefully. Wish me luck on the first start up! More to come...
