Ls1 swapped IS300 stage two power upgrades and swap kit testing
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Ls1 swapped IS300 stage two power upgrades and swap kit testing
I think the is300 with an ls1 making 330hp 330tq is great. It has good traction but at the same time plenty of power to roast the tires if thats what your looking to do. N/A power is fun and thanks to how popular the ls1 is the parts are somewhat cheap and easy to find. I had a pilot bearing go bad so I decided it was time to do this car up right with some power mods.
Mod list:
Patriot 2.5 CNC ported 5.3L heads
EPS Custom Camshaft 226 234 .600 lift
comp push rods
Ls2 timing chain
ARP rod bolts
Melling oil pump
Ls7 Clutch and flywheel
Koyo radiator
DM mount kit
DM rear diff bushings
HP Tuners
I'm extremely impressed by how easy this car is to work on. As you can see I'm doing this in my garage with basic tools. From the time I stepped into the garage to the moment the engine was on a stand was 3 hours. During the install I plan on test fitting the new ls1 install parts I've started producing.
Mod list:
Patriot 2.5 CNC ported 5.3L heads
EPS Custom Camshaft 226 234 .600 lift
comp push rods
Ls2 timing chain
ARP rod bolts
Melling oil pump
Ls7 Clutch and flywheel
Koyo radiator
DM mount kit
DM rear diff bushings
HP Tuners
I'm extremely impressed by how easy this car is to work on. As you can see I'm doing this in my garage with basic tools. From the time I stepped into the garage to the moment the engine was on a stand was 3 hours. During the install I plan on test fitting the new ls1 install parts I've started producing.
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Most of the parts came from suppliers I work with. I bought the heads used off ls1tech.
Here is the destruction of the pilot bearing. It also caused the input shaft seal to start leaking.
This is about as messy as I'll let it get. I'm a neat freak most of the time.
The 50 thousand mile motor is actually really clean inside.
And the money shot. This is me torquing the rod bolts.
Here is the destruction of the pilot bearing. It also caused the input shaft seal to start leaking.
This is about as messy as I'll let it get. I'm a neat freak most of the time.
The 50 thousand mile motor is actually really clean inside.
And the money shot. This is me torquing the rod bolts.
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So I got the heads installed as well as a bunch of other parts. I've had to work on some other projects lately but its ok because I'm waiting on some slow shippers to get me some much needed parts.
Here's where I get to show you some cool stuff about the GM LS motors. All the gaskets are either O-rings or o-ring impregnated aluminum. I dont think the seals last as long as Toyota but the majority of the time these cars are leak free.
I got the first set of mounts all welded up and installed on the block. They are slotted to allow for some adjustment.
When the pilot bearing went bad I continued to drive it for a few hunderd miles. This caused my input shaft seal to start leaking. No problem 11-12 bolts later I replaced the seal and got a chance to see inside the T56
Here's where I get to show you some cool stuff about the GM LS motors. All the gaskets are either O-rings or o-ring impregnated aluminum. I dont think the seals last as long as Toyota but the majority of the time these cars are leak free.
I got the first set of mounts all welded up and installed on the block. They are slotted to allow for some adjustment.
When the pilot bearing went bad I continued to drive it for a few hunderd miles. This caused my input shaft seal to start leaking. No problem 11-12 bolts later I replaced the seal and got a chance to see inside the T56
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Yeah I bought that mag. I cant believe it made it in there. That was my 5th year in a row to attend the supra nationals.
So i noticed a little wheel hop in the lexus after the 330hp ls1 install. After taking a look at the bushings I realized the rear diff mounts were broken and the front differential mounts were liquid filled. This amount of movement would allow my driveshaft to hit the body under hard acceleration.
So I made some out of 6061 billet aluminum
Using a hammer the rear diff mounts were easy. The front bushings take the poky tool and the hammer.
You notice the three dents I made with the poky tool and the hammer? That is the relief the bushing needs to pop out since you cannot press them out.
Using a Jack I was able to lower the differential without getting hurt.
Since I chose not to remove the subframe from the car I had to use a piece of steel with a hole in it with a nut and bolt to pull the rear bushings into place.
The fronts are easy to either smack in with a dead blow hammer or a hydraulic press. Total installation time about 3 hours.
So i noticed a little wheel hop in the lexus after the 330hp ls1 install. After taking a look at the bushings I realized the rear diff mounts were broken and the front differential mounts were liquid filled. This amount of movement would allow my driveshaft to hit the body under hard acceleration.
So I made some out of 6061 billet aluminum
Using a hammer the rear diff mounts were easy. The front bushings take the poky tool and the hammer.
You notice the three dents I made with the poky tool and the hammer? That is the relief the bushing needs to pop out since you cannot press them out.
Using a Jack I was able to lower the differential without getting hurt.
Since I chose not to remove the subframe from the car I had to use a piece of steel with a hole in it with a nut and bolt to pull the rear bushings into place.
The fronts are easy to either smack in with a dead blow hammer or a hydraulic press. Total installation time about 3 hours.