george37

Hello,

I just bought an IS300 earlier this year. I got the first oil change at 5000 miles for free at the Lexus dealership but now want to start doing it myself.

I have a couple questions about changing the oil.

1. What weight oil should I use? Since it is the winter, should I use a different weight than for the rest of the seasons?

2. Should I go synthetic? If I do go synthetic, someone told me Mobil1 is the only true synthetic oil. Is this true?

3. Where should I get my oil filter from? Another Lexus owner said that I can purchase parts through this website at a discount?



Thanks for your help,
George

rominl

iTrader: (4)

1. i believe i am using 5w30 on my gs400, sc430, and also the is300. not sure about winter over there though, since i am in cali

2. i got synthetic even on my first oil change and never go back. i use mobil1. it's not the best, for example amsoil is even better but a lot more expensive. since i change oil every 3 to 5k miles, i am ok

3. i just use lexus oem filter, cheap enough

Beachtyme

iTrader: (1)

Keep in mind it's a pain getting to the oil filter unless you have really skinny arms.

koolaidman

my response is in bold and underline

X72

george37, click on this link for a used oil analyis on my sister's 02 Sportcross.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/...c;f=3;t=003073
If you search the "BITOG" forums, your head could explode with all the information and opinions. But you will learn a lot.

The simple answer for 99% of the population is to just follow the manufacturers recommended oil change interval (OCI). True, the manufacturers can make mistakes. For example, Toyota has had sluding issues with a few of the V6 engines (1MZ-FE) in the ES and other models. They made some changes to the engines and shortened the OCI to 6 months 5k miles (they dropped the 7.5k mile OCI).

On the 02 IS 300, the recommendation is for 5W-30 (10W-30 can also be used) and 4 month 5k miles severe and 6 month 7.5k miles regular. I am in Miami, FL ,so I opted for 10W-30 since it doesn't get cold here and I prefer having less viscosity stretching additives in the oil for the hot climate. I use a synthetic oil since I am looking to extend the OCI to about 1 year / 7.5k miles. If you live in a place where the temperature drops to 20 degrees below zero or colder, then a synthetic oil is also a good idea.

I would advise you to use a conventional 5W-30 oil (Havoline, Chevron, and Motorcraft are my personal favorites) in the new API SM and ISLAC GF-4 (friendlier to the catalytic converter and have better base stocks to resist sludging than the prior SL GF-3 standard) and go no more than 5k miles or 6 months whichever comes first and use the Toyota Oil Filter. www.irontoad.com has a good deal on the Toyota filters that are sourced from Thailand (there is a letter D in the part number); it is a nice filter and the price of about $4.50 is good. I second koolaidman that Wix makes nice filters too. If you browse BITOG, you can find pictures of all kinds of filters cut open for inspection to examine the construction.

If you are religious about the oil change and you are not racing the car on a track, then a conventional oil is more than adequate. If you are absent minded about oil changes, then using a synthetic will give you more of a cushion if you extend the OCI.

I personally like the Mobil 1 Extended Performance formulation for my once a year oil change. It is an SL oil because apparently they cannot do without the additives and still have the oil last as long as they claim.

However, I would strongly caution you against extending the OCI until after the warranty has expired. In the rare case that something would go wrong with the engine for whatever reason, not following their recommendations gives Toyota an easy out from covering the repair.

Good luck. Enjoy your car. Don't worry to much about this stuff. I just find motor oil and its marketing fascinating.

Tammy

Agree - 5W-30 should be your weight. Compare the cost of oil and filter over time. If you change your oil quarterly, then any good brand of oil will be fine. I personally have good luck with Castrol. Bi-yearly or yearly changes, then synthetic. But whatever oil you decide on, stick with using it. Don't mix brands over time.
Remember oil cleans, cools and lubricates. Change it out often, use good filters (K&N or Toyota) and you'll get good service.

X72

Tammy, I agree with you that Castrol makes fine oils. I happen to have a stash of Belgian Castrol 5W-40 for my MB. So is Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline.
I disagree with you that you need to do 3 month oil changes with conventional oils now. I would have agreed with you in the past, but the new SM GF-4 oils are turning in wonderful UOA in a variety of engines.

If you see my UOA in the link in my prior post, you will see that I ran Mobil 1 10W-30 (not the Extended Performance version, but the regular SM formulation) for 11 months and about 6.5 k miles (mostly city driving in Miami, FL) and the oil was still good.

You don't have to take my word for it. Do a google search for the term BITOG and check out the UOA forums. True, a UOA doesn't reveal all, but it does give you some objective information.

I am currently running Castrol Synthetic Blend in my dad's ES 330. I will be doing a UOA in 2 to 3 months on that oil at a 6 month 5k interval. I would have run a regular oil but Walmart had the Blend for under $11 for the 5 quart jugs and that seemed like a good deal to me.

There is of course nothing wrong with doing 3 month 3k mile oil changes; all I am saying is that it is safe to go to 5k miles (which really means 5 to 6 thousand miles or 6 months whichever comes first) on these new SM oils.

I know I am not going to change your mind just because I say so, but you and/or others may be interested in looking at the current data that is available.

I also do not agree with you on the K&N filters when it comes to air filters. I prefer a dry filter (not an oiled filter like the K&N), especially the filters that are OEM Toyota which are very well made.

Tammy

But you don't live in southern Arizona... fine dust. "It's a dry heat" ... I didn't mention an air filter.

X72

If you are interested in seeing a UOA for an IS 300 Sportcross, click here
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/...c;f=3;t=003073

Sean007

Anyone have complete information on the best way to do an oil change for a 2003 IS300?

llllllllll

iTrader: (1)

X72 why don't you recommend using a mobile1 oil filter?

I always use mobile 1 oil filter since I use mobile 1 oil?
heh don't ask why, just thought it made sense to keep it together like that?

llllllllll

iTrader: (1)

drain, plug, refill

make sure to follow that order exactly,
if you miss a step or mix up the order then you have made a boo boo.
hehe jk

but yeah on a more serious note, i'm curious too, I just got my car and have never done the oil yet.
have a feeling it's going to take me a while to find the drain plug and the oil filter.

WICKEDIS

HERE U GO:
http://my.is/forums/f67/is300-oil-change-guide-340749/
No to MOBIL 1. I use Royal Purple, Red Line is also great.
Prefer K&N oil filter plus real easy to get off, the filter is a
***** to get off.Recommend lifting car.
5W30 which Lexus recommends.Good Luck!!!!!!

Brian231

I live in the Chicagoland area and always used Mobil 1 5w30 year round in my gen 1. The filter has to be twisted under the 4 channel brake lines below the master cylinder. You will get really good at it over time. It is a pain at first.

IS3_FTW

iTrader: (3)

I use 5w30 fully synthetic Mobil1. Mobil1 filter.
Dont go with Fram, its worst for your engine. It clogs faster