IS F (2008-2014) Discussion topics related to the IS F model

Infamous Metal ticking sound

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Old 04-27-15, 10:44 PM
  #31  
idoke1
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^^I don't know if adding additives in the engine oil will help our motors and i am not a believer of this. PM lobuxracer to see how his treatment is going. I have this sound too and some reason, it comes and goes.
Old 04-27-15, 11:40 PM
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seanco
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Originally Posted by idoke1
^^I don't know if adding additives in the engine oil will help our motors and i am not a believer of this. PM lobuxracer to see how his treatment is going. I have this sound too and some reason, it comes and goes.
i have run the same BG44K through mine. ticking still there for me. thing is his was when the engine was cold. and few of us here have this when the engine is hot, i believe we have separate issues causing the ticking

perhaps we can find common ground here, im using a 5w 40 fully synth oil. guys with the ticking when hot what oil spec are you using?
Old 04-28-15, 10:21 AM
  #33  
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Your mechanic knows nothing about the 2UR-GSE. It has solid valve lash adjustment, so there is no oil treatment in the world that will make any difference to the "lifters". Besides, I'd challenge him to find even one "lifter" in the whole engine. There are none. We have shim adjusted rocker arms with direct cam actuation. Not one single piece of hydraulics anywhere to be found.

If yours is ticking while hot, and not cold, have you put a heavy load on the engine, or shot some water through the intake? Either of those will discourage carbon build up on the valves and get them to seat slighty better which means the lash will be reduced. This could be especially helpful if the noise is valve related. Nothing beats getting the carbon burned off the valve faces and seats.

BUT - valve noises are very rhythmic. They are NOT erratic like the noise I have, and the noise I am unhappy about. The injectors and the valvetrain all make their own noises. They are, without question, predictable noises at predictable frequencies. Erratic clattering is what I am hearing and what I am not happy about.

The BG treatment is up for grabs. While it seemed to work perfectly the first 3 days, on day 4 I heard the noise again - much quieter than before, but definitely a return. It has been silent since last week. I am really wondering WTF right now.
Old 04-28-15, 11:15 AM
  #34  
idoke1
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Originally Posted by seanco
i have run the same BG44K through mine. ticking still there for me. thing is his was when the engine was cold. and few of us here have this when the engine is hot, i believe we have separate issues causing the ticking

perhaps we can find common ground here, im using a 5w 40 fully synth oil. guys with the ticking when hot what oil spec are you using?
I'm on non-synthetic Penzoil 5w-30.
Old 04-28-15, 11:22 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Your mechanic knows nothing about the 2UR-GSE. It has solid valve lash adjustment, so there is no oil treatment in the world that will make any difference to the "lifters". Besides, I'd challenge him to find even one "lifter" in the whole engine. There are none. We have shim adjusted rocker arms with direct cam actuation. Not one single piece of hydraulics anywhere to be found.

If yours is ticking while hot, and not cold, have you put a heavy load on the engine, or shot some water through the intake? Either of those will discourage carbon build up on the valves and get them to seat slighty better which means the lash will be reduced. This could be especially helpful if the noise is valve related. Nothing beats getting the carbon burned off the valve faces and seats.

BUT - valve noises are very rhythmic. They are NOT erratic like the noise I have, and the noise I am unhappy about. The injectors and the valvetrain all make their own noises. They are, without question, predictable noises at predictable frequencies. Erratic clattering is what I am hearing and what I am not happy about.

The BG treatment is up for grabs. While it seemed to work perfectly the first 3 days, on day 4 I heard the noise again - much quieter than before, but definitely a return. It has been silent since last week. I am really wondering WTF right now.
well it seems in not even the Lexus dealerships know these 2UR GSE engines then. since 1 of them recommends a lifter replacement. anyway we all know dealerships and their antics to get people to pay for any random thing. thats why we ask on the forums.

unfortunately as you said BG44K didn't work for you also and the sounds we have are not rhythmic as one would expect if this sound was valve train related. i have not put this engine under heavy load, besides going WOT till the speed limit which does not take long at all, i guess not long enough to do any good. we have a long trip coming up that might help clean out some carbon. i could try getting the engine hot and giving a bit of water spray to see if that helps. aside from that now there is no other repair / knowledge to be found for this ticking it seems... (the last dealership did say they put a camera in a spark plug hole and found lots of buildup, perhaps water is the direction i need to go to?)
Old 04-28-15, 11:32 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by seanco
well it seems in not even the Lexus dealerships know these 2UR GSE engines then. since 1 of them recommends a lifter replacement. anyway we all know dealerships and their antics to get people to pay for any random thing. thats why we ask on the forums.

unfortunately as you said BG44K didn't work for you also and the sounds we have are not rhythmic as one would expect if this sound was valve train related. i have not put this engine under heavy load, besides going WOT till the speed limit which does not take long at all, i guess not long enough to do any good. we have a long trip coming up that might help clean out some carbon. i could try getting the engine hot and giving a bit of water spray to see if that helps. aside from that now there is no other repair / knowledge to be found for this ticking it seems... (the last dealership did say they put a camera in a spark plug hole and found lots of buildup, perhaps water is the direction i need to go to?)
There aren't many dealerships where they see more than a couple of F's a year. I wouldn't expect them to know much about the engines.

Mine is definitely age related. Others have had different fixes. If I remember right, there was a forum member in Massachusetts who got new exhaust valve guides. Salil also had his fixed by Lexus, but both of these cars were relatively new and under warranty. Mine didn't start making the noise until warranty was long gone.

Few things beat water injection under load to remove carbon deposits. It might be worth rigging something up to get water into the intake and go for a drive with lots of WOT bursts.
Old 04-28-15, 11:38 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
There aren't many dealerships where they see more than a couple of F's a year. I wouldn't expect them to know much about the engines.

Mine is definitely age related. Others have had different fixes. If I remember right, there was a forum member in Massachusetts who got new exhaust valve guides. Salil also had his fixed by Lexus, but both of these cars were relatively new and under warranty. Mine didn't start making the noise until warranty was long gone.

Few things beat water injection under load to remove carbon deposits. It might be worth rigging something up to get water into the intake and go for a drive with lots of WOT bursts.
just out of interest, these jobs to replace the valve guides as an example. can you do that with the engine in place or must it be dropped?

and to think i gave my old WMI kit away when i sold the old turbo S6, would have been perfect now. will try find a way to get this done though. can i not spray it in with engine running but parked? best under WOT i guess
Old 04-28-15, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by seanco
just out of interest, these jobs to replace the valve guides as an example. can you do that with the engine in place or must it be dropped?

and to think i gave my old WMI kit away when i sold the old turbo S6, would have been perfect now. will try find a way to get this done though. can i not spray it in with engine running but parked? best under WOT i guess
Valve guides are a heads off job, so the engine needs to come out. I really doubt there is enough room to pull the heads with the engine in the chassis.

You can do it parked, but it won't be nearly as good. WOT temperatures and airflow really make a big difference in the effectiveness of the cleaning.
Old 04-28-15, 11:49 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Valve guides are a heads off job, so the engine needs to come out. I really doubt there is enough room to pull the heads with the engine in the chassis.

You can do it parked, but it won't be nearly as good. WOT temperatures and airflow really make a big difference in the effectiveness of the cleaning.
engine out and splitting scares me. especially the job quality in this country.

will try the water cleaning parked first then if its not helping maybe i can find a WMI kit to fit for a weekend. any suggested flow rates for this engine. 120mil /m (i know that low but this is NA so im not sure) last thing we need is a hydro locked engine and bent rods
Old 04-28-15, 11:56 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by seanco
engine out and splitting scares me. especially the job quality in this country.

will try the water cleaning parked first then if its not helping maybe i can find a WMI kit to fit for a weekend. any suggested flow rates for this engine. 120mil /m (i know that low but this is NA so im not sure) last thing we need is a hydro locked engine and bent rods
I was thinking about this, and probably the quick and easy method would be to use the airbox flap opener circuit. You'd need to bypass the check valve, but the tube is small enough to be self limiting so hydrolocking would be impossible. With the actuator VSV in circuit, it would not turn on the water until you hit 3200 rpm, so it would be possible to plan when to make it hit the water and be sure your foot is buried when you do it. You'd just need a container of water you could temporarily stuff under the hood while you go for a drive. It would be helpful to have a tube in the container to draw the water out , but there are a number of ways to solve that problem.
Old 04-28-15, 12:12 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
I was thinking about this, and probably the quick and easy method would be to use the airbox flap opener circuit. You'd need to bypass the check valve, but the tube is small enough to be self limiting so hydrolocking would be impossible. With the actuator VSV in circuit, it would not turn on the water until you hit 3200 rpm, so it would be possible to plan when to make it hit the water and be sure your foot is buried when you do it. You'd just need a container of water you could temporarily stuff under the hood while you go for a drive. It would be helpful to have a tube in the container to draw the water out , but there are a number of ways to solve that problem.
i will have a look at that tomorrow after work. if its easy enough could have it setup and running during this long weekend
Old 04-28-15, 04:01 PM
  #42  
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The ticking could be caused by your oil viscosity or since you're using synthetic oil. Might want to address that. I personally am running the manufacturer recommended conventional 5w30 in my car and still have the occasional noise. Maybe I will switch to fully synthetic oil but I don't know if it matters that much, my understanding was as long as you are not living in extreme climate and tracking your car conventional oil does just as good of a job, viscosity is more important to pay attention to especially with the oil changes being every 3k-5k miles and the top notch quality of the Toyota filters.

I have definitely heard of some members who are running synthetic hearing this sound. Overall the consensus is that it is a pretty common issue to hear this ticking noise so I don't really care that much I guess. Just make sure you do not stray too far from the recommended viscosity.
Old 04-28-15, 04:47 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Dupshaw123
The ticking could be caused by your oil viscosity or since you're using synthetic oil. Might want to address that. I personally am running the manufacturer recommended conventional 5w30 in my car and still have the occasional noise. Maybe I will switch to fully synthetic oil but I don't know if it matters that much, my understanding was as long as you are not living in extreme climate and tracking your car conventional oil does just as good of a job, viscosity is more important to pay attention to especially with the oil changes being every 3k-5k miles and the top notch quality of the Toyota filters.

I have definitely heard of some members who are running synthetic hearing this sound. Overall the consensus is that it is a pretty common issue to hear this ticking noise so I don't really care that much I guess. Just make sure you do not stray too far from the recommended viscosity.
Why would it start after over 70k miles of operation with Mobil 1 at the specified 5w-30 if it were oil related?

And "common issue" or not, it's incredibly loud sometimes and quite embarrassing. If I were Lexus, I would be looking for a solution simply because my car making the noise it does makes the brand look like they're falling down.
Old 04-28-15, 10:46 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Dupshaw123
The ticking could be caused by your oil viscosity or since you're using synthetic oil. Might want to address that. I personally am running the manufacturer recommended conventional 5w30 in my car and still have the occasional noise. Maybe I will switch to fully synthetic oil but I don't know if it matters that much, my understanding was as long as you are not living in extreme climate and tracking your car conventional oil does just as good of a job, viscosity is more important to pay attention to especially with the oil changes being every 3k-5k miles and the top notch quality of the Toyota filters.

I have definitely heard of some members who are running synthetic hearing this sound. Overall the consensus is that it is a pretty common issue to hear this ticking noise so I don't really care that much I guess. Just make sure you do not stray too far from the recommended viscosity.
i get what you saying about oil viscosity but in the manual im still within recommended spec. there are 3 weights and this is right in the middle. the reason im running this oil currently is as a test (which is failing by the way). my car recently had its 90,000km service (based on the years not km) and the agent used their oil probably a 5w30 i dont know. i took it back to them because of this sound and they recommended my current oil to see if it changes anything. i could try a 5w30 full synth though i have my doubt it will change anything, thing is heavy weights would be preferred for a noisy engine?

Originally Posted by lobuxracer
And "common issue" or not, it's incredibly loud sometimes and quite embarrassing. If I were Lexus, I would be looking for a solution simply because my car making the noise it does makes the brand look like they're falling down.
I agree with this whole post, its rather embarrassing to have sounds like this in a Lexus.
Old 05-11-15, 08:51 AM
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I had an experience yesterday with a loud tick coming from the passenger side on a cold start for approx 15-20 seconds. I have only had my car about a month now, it had 79k when i picked it up and now has 81K. I have only been filling up with top tier gas brands and rotating them (Chevron, shell, valero, exxon)

I had been driving around Friday night before for probably 30-40 minutes, the engine was not overly stressed or hot when I shut it down. The car sat all day on Saturday. Sunday I started the car around 3pm and the loud tick was coming from the passenger side. I immediately shut the engine down and popped the hood to take a look. I didn't see anything so I started it again and the noise was still there, but by the time I got out of the car and under the hood on the passenger side the noise had faded away and has not returned.


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