Swift Springs with HR 15mm spacers
#92
Lexus Fanatic
Thanks for posting this buddy. That was my big question. I am very curious. The offset of my wheels is the only thing visually that I do not like about the ISF. I had 22" Vossens on my LS460 and they filled the fender so well . The wheel came right to the edge of the fender like its supposed to. lol Need to decide wether to mess with after market wheels or try spacers. I know some guys will think its stupid, but the wheels on the ISF , to me, make it look like an ISF. When you swap them the cars look more like ISX50's and I hate that. Call me a Lexus snob but when you come from an LS460 flagship vehicle on 22's you dont want anyone thinking you drive a regular IS after. LOL my neighbors probably think the practice isnt doing well
#93
Racer
iTrader: (4)
I completed this last weekend.
It was pretty straight forward:
1 - Remove wheels
Watch this video for steps 2-4 :
2 - Remove brake pads - I did it for the first time and it was super easy.
3 - Unbolt brake calipers (2 bolts)
4 - Remove rotor
5 - Press out studs (use this http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html) - this works for the front and rear.
6 - Install new studs - I used the press for the front but there was not enough room to press in the rears so I reluctantly used this washer technique http://knowhow.napaonline.com/how-to...ken-wheel-stud. - It works, but an impact wrench is almost required. I used a $65 electric impact wrench that I got at Autozone - worked fine
Tips (mostly for the rear):
- You need to get both rear wheels off the ground and the car in neutral BEFORE you remove the rear brake pads. I tried to do it after the brake pads were off and I tore a brake seal when I hit the brakes to start the car and place it in neutral.
- Because of the E-brake drum, the rear will need a little bit of maneuvering to get the rotors off. Be patient and use a rubber mallet.
- There is very little room to get the old studs out and the new ones in the rear. Go slow and you will find a spot that works for removing and installing the new studs.
- remember to lube up the brake parts when you reinstall everything.
It was pretty straight forward:
1 - Remove wheels
Watch this video for steps 2-4 :
3 - Unbolt brake calipers (2 bolts)
4 - Remove rotor
5 - Press out studs (use this http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html) - this works for the front and rear.
6 - Install new studs - I used the press for the front but there was not enough room to press in the rears so I reluctantly used this washer technique http://knowhow.napaonline.com/how-to...ken-wheel-stud. - It works, but an impact wrench is almost required. I used a $65 electric impact wrench that I got at Autozone - worked fine
Tips (mostly for the rear):
- You need to get both rear wheels off the ground and the car in neutral BEFORE you remove the rear brake pads. I tried to do it after the brake pads were off and I tore a brake seal when I hit the brakes to start the car and place it in neutral.
- Because of the E-brake drum, the rear will need a little bit of maneuvering to get the rotors off. Be patient and use a rubber mallet.
- There is very little room to get the old studs out and the new ones in the rear. Go slow and you will find a spot that works for removing and installing the new studs.
- remember to lube up the brake parts when you reinstall everything.
#94
Driver School Candidate
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Ontario
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hey guys, fairly new to the forums here, I've been going through thread after thread of Tein Htech lowering springs and these Swift ones and I wanted to know if you guys had a preference.
Why some people prefer the Swifts vs. the Teins.
Any information would help
thanks!
Why some people prefer the Swifts vs. the Teins.
Any information would help
thanks!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post