Gearbangin

iTrader: (7)

How many hour job is this? What you think a shop would charge?

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

I wouldn't think any more than 4-5 hours labor job.

IIRC it took me around an hour with a lift to remove the Differential I would think less than an hour to pull the old one out, another hour to shave the housing (you will do the same with an OS Giken unit) unless you have a 2010 + housing and install into the carrier then probably another hour putting it back in the car and putting it all back together.

FIgs can probably give you a better time estimate but that's is just me doing it myself.

FIGS

iTrader: (11)

I estimate 8-9 hours. There is lash measurement and shimming on top of that if required. Installing the ring gear you need to heat it up and line it up within a few seconds...or you will have to pop it back off. I think we spent an hour on those snap rings the first time Biggu .

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

LOL Ive gone to 3 different places that I know would have the tools and we failed all three places.

Snap on guy is going to make a special trip to my shop. told him if he has the tool to get the snap rings off with ease ill be buying them.

for those interested, here are the parts number for the bearings and seals. Seals you will need, Bearings you can take your old ones off your stock diff but I prefer to just get new.




and the snap rings im fighting,

Gearbangin

iTrader: (7)

So estimate about 800-900 labor cost? All in about a 3k modification.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Looks like you need http://www.crawfordtool.com/knipex_4921A31.html. How big is the diameter?

Or this? http://www.protoindustrial.com/en/in...rnal|External/

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

the second ones would have probably worked for me, however I was talking with the snap on guy and he wanted $127 for the ring pliers, I just told him I couldn't see spending that much on a tool ill use once which he agreed with me. He told me that I can just barrow it for the week and give it back when he comes next time. can't complain with that at all!



The tools of the trade!

anyways, Got it all installed last night into the carrier, waiting for the gasket sealer to set and install back into the car Friday night along with test drive this weekend weather permitting.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Any shots of the tooth engagement profile? That's the part I am most concerned about. How much trial and error and how many snap rings will I need to buy to do this?

FWIW, I have one of the few complete stocks of snap rings for a V-160 transmission sitting in a box in my garage because I bought them all when I rebuilt my V-160.

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

No pictures of the tooth profile as my phone died before I got to that point however it was spot on which it should have been since we didn't mess with the pinion spacing.

I used the same snap rings that came off my diff as putting it back in as it was still within factory specification. factory is spec for backlash is 0.000 to 0.005 IIRC, Mine spec'd out factory at 0.001 and with the new ATS LSD I was at 0.003 which I am happy with. I was under the impression however that the snap rings should match on both sides of the case but in my case the left side was 4.15mm and my right side was 3.95MM.

I would think that for most installs, you will be able to use the snap rings that came off and still be in specification. I know mike at FIGs used the same snap rings that came out and his was at 0.005. I however cannot say what his backlash was from factory though.

the install itself was not bad except for shaving the side of the case down to fit the whole unit in. I was at it for quite a while and I finally got it where I though it should go in got frustrated and walked away for a little bit. when I came back I barely touched the thing and it just plopped right into the carrier.

Gearbangin

iTrader: (7)

What part needs shaved specifically? Pics

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

That's exactly what I was hoping to hear. It seems reasonable if the parts are made to a good tolerance it should go this way.

WylieKylie

iTrader: (2)

I'm confused, I thought the ring gear had to be heated in order to expand and fit on the diff?
I gather from the convo between you an Lobuxracer that if necessary, the backlash would need to be adjusted by "shimming" the diff from side to side using snap rings of different widths?

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

The ring gear is moved from side to side with the snap rings. The pinion gear is moved fore and aft with shims. When you install the spool, you put prussian blue (I use conventional artist's oil paint) on the ring gear and rotate the assembly to see where the teeth engage and adjust either the spool or the pinion to get the engagement in the center of the teeth. It's not rocket science, but it does take good visualization skills, much like doing cylinder head work and placing the contact line on the middle of the valve's face. It is critical to get it right or the gears will chew themselves to death in short order, or if the contact is too high on the tooth, the gear teeth on the ring gear will break off.

RCB

iTrader: (18)

It should have been. Diff can be cooled down and or ring gear heated. I'm surprised the ring gear went on (assumingly) easy since the freezer shrinks the metal.

Biggu

iTrader: (12)

you are correct, it didn't go while it was cold, it actually wasn't in there more than 30 minutes, I removed it once I realized the mistake I had made