abohler

I will be in the shop in the next two weeks to do the nitrous tuning. I will have to run some numbers before that. Haven't gotten that deep yet, just was considering enriching fuel and slowing burn. I am going to be using a wideband, and -1 and -2 degree plugs as well in the process to find the best combo.

Thanks for all your input, I learn something new from you every time.

abohler

In my setup I will not be mixing fuels in the tank. The tank will run 93 and the standalone will mix C16 with the nitrous through the throttle body. Is octane calculation still relevant in this scenario?

MRxSLAYx

Yes. Calculation is going to be based on the 93 that the engine uses to operate and the 117 that your spraying though the nitrous. I haven't seen any information on the amount of fuel by volume that the car uses at WOT so I cant really help there. Best scenario is that the 117/93 mix will result in a minimum of 109 octane. I say 109 just because thats what ive used in the past without issues. Modern plate systems are very good so that should help, my main worry is just the basis of detonation. I think a good way to go about the process would be to have a mix of 117/93 in the main fuel tank and slowly reduce the mix as you go through the tuning process. By reading the plugs as the primary fuel supply octane is reduced, it is possible that you will be able to catch any detonation before you face any significant problems.

Someone like lobox would be more experienced on how effective fuel mixtures are so hopefully someome will chime in.

Edit: are you planning on shutting off the nitrous a few hundred rpm shy of redline? When I was running the 175 shot my transmission shifted slower in the lower gears.
Apologize ahead of time if the video shouldn't be posted....

Below is a video of a race between my Black ISF on a 175 shot vs a 136mph GTR. You can hear during the video that the car shifts a bit slower than in comparison to a regular NA pull. The shifts did improve as I took weight out of the car, but were pretty consistent with this video when I was on the 200 shot.

lobuxracer

iTrader: (2)

Fuel mixing is usually pretty straight forward if you know the relative volumes. Octane response isn't perfectly linear, but it's usually close enough that it isn't the source of disaster.

I've mixed race gas and pump gas with my Supra when California reduced their premium from 93 to 91. It worked perfectly, and ended up being cheaper than losing 35% of my fuel mileage from crappy 91 alone. Just be sure you are not adding any unanticipated oxygenates. Some race fuels now have oxygenates in them. You need to account for them if they are there by running a little richer.

darbs242

iTrader: (5)

I put down 500 on a dynopack jetted for a 100 shot on pump, have been running 150 shot with ms109, sikky headers and have had zero problems. Ekankoo ISF put down 630. No reported probelsm. I would leave the itrans alone.

abohler

First off, I don't see how the GTR won that race. Looked pretty close to me if not the ISF pressing past.

I am running an RPM window switch. I spray from 3k to 6800. Just giving that little window before redline. I am definitely using as many things as I can to keep this setup safe. Just want to push it as far as possible and avoid any issues.

abohler

Good insight. I am definitely going to start conservative. The standalone cell with 1 gal c16 plus the nitrous, and 93 out back. Currently running 100 shot without any of these components, so will go slow through the nitrous tuning process.

One more thing, I am going to run ecutouts right after the gutted oem manifold. Anyone see any issues there?

abohler

Do you spray with a plate system on the throttle body, or did you tap into intake or throttle body on your system?

darbs242

iTrader: (5)

We are all running tapped into the intake or direct injection. I know slays old set up and mine are in the intake

KOKISF

Our experience here in PR wich is very hot ,very humid and at sea level is that spraying the car over 150 the car start to ritchen up the mixture in the higher rpm and you dont have control over that 100-125 shot not a problem or issue, we seen 2 different cars doing the same thing one 2008 the other 2010 both w H,E,I plus the same NOS set up .The 2010 was tried to be tuned in excess of 250shot eventually after several pulls the guy distroyed the motor. Their plan of fixing the problem was adding more Nitrous in the range the car started to add e excessive fuel mixture to try regulate what the car feels is off, wich to e was stupid because the car was protecting it self! Anyways that neted 650 range of whp the motor blew up, one of the holow camshaft was broken off ! Not to the fact that it is holow was theproblem what caused the problem to me was all the detonation caused the cam gear assy to fail . Hope this helps

KOKISF

Also we found is that the 150 shot sometimes you can see and feel slipage in the drive train and sometimes it even detects something and it ritchenss the mixture.

Thats why i dont go over 125
Doing it progressive you and the car hardly feel it , but the numbers go down and miles up when sprayed, i clear this up beacause some people think when you spray the car will feel a hit etc but w a good progressive system you eliminate that also reducing the chance of things breaking up

KOKISF

Last but not least , i now for a fact there is a mod for our transmission the 2010 f did it , and it was some sord of valve body up grade , i will ask him and post it here , dont even remember if the mod netted good or bad results but ill dig in and let you know

darbs242

iTrader: (5)

I have never heard of a valve body modification on this thread in 4 years. I have had the engine knock from spraying to early in rpm but never for running a 150 shot alone. I just don't arm till after 4200rpm with the bigger shot and race gas. 100 is the biggest I would go on pump 93.

KOKISF

I assure you there is , left a text message to the guy soon as i know ill post

abohler

It seems across the board the sikky header is the issue, but why? Can you elaborate why the gutted oem wouldn't have the same issue? You'd think better breathing would have less chance to blow. Could it be attributed to incorrect nitrous tuning, or bad distribution of nitrous through a nozzle rather than a plate system or a direct port? Or even poor fuel. Just wanting to learn as I go.