MRxSLAYx

Ill post some pics and results when my motor is broken in. Direct port is a pretty cool way to go with the isf

v8sten

iTrader: (1)

Kinda off subject, but did you build your motor? Forged bottom end?

madastep

I have a fogger setup, had a wet 150 shot with separate fuel cell. But now now the fuel rail is tapped and fogs using that. (it's at 119 hp to the tires). it's been in there 2 years now, and the car has almost 100k miles.

Basically a NX universal system with shark fogger, and lightening solenoids

I am interested in seeing MrSlay's new stuff!!!

scamsel

hey question about nitrous guys.......if its 'on' it will just always spray after a set rpm? like if you just wanted to drive mostly with it off, is it quick enough that you can just flip it on at a stop light, or if you are cruising at highway speeds and want some more 'juice'?

madastep

Mine has two switches, and a button. 1 switch turns on the bottle heater, 1 switch turns on the nitrous (the bottle has to be open), and the button purges the nitrous (lets out excess gas out of the line) so when it fires, it's all the good stuff. I have an RPM switch so it only sprays between certain RPM's. Wide Open throttle switch, so i fires only when you hit the gas full on.

when your done, close the bottle, purge out the excess.

The only annoying thing with nitrous is, you can't really just leave the bottle open. Someone always wants to race you when you don't have the bottle open :P

abohler

How many miles were on your motor while spraying 175? Also update on the motor, are you going to be spraying a large shot on the new build?

abohler

Any pics of your setup? Who performed the work?

MRxSLAYx

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...ml#post7750079

Took it out of the car with 82-85k, don't remember the exact number. My built motor has been done for a while now, just been busy with life and haven't payed attention to it. Im probably going to spray a 200 shot at the wheels with the new motor while I work on my supra project. I have the option of spraying a lot more depending on how the headers come out, but im not really sure if im going to need the extra power for the 40-140 sprints I like to do. Real goal for the motor is to eventually put the modified heads on and use a turbo to make north of 1500hp (what it was originally built to do) but ill tackle that after im happy with the supra.

scamsel

so but does that mean you can't just activate it quickly? the 2 switches take time to heat up the bottle or something? sorry still confused, ha.

KOKISF

You can have a remote bottle opener , or an opening selenoid!!!

A nitrous kit comes only w and activation switch , and a wot switch wich is a microswitch wher it wont work on our cars because they are drivebywire.
Being that said to make it work for our cars you need some way to activate the sistem at a certain rpm and only at wot, also a way to shut off the system before shifting. Thera are differents ways to do this , all are extras on the kit

Last but not least , for the nitrous to be sprayed there are certaing things that need to hapen simultaneosly for it to spray
Like: wot, goong over the desired rpm to start the system so on and so on but if your bottle is opened and purged and you
Floor the car and turn on the system the kick will be at the moment , the intensity where the shot is felt is depending of the % of spraying

scamsel

thanks for explaining kokisf. curious still what you meant about "a way to shuff off the system before shifting".

also, what happens if you forget to purge for some reason? and when does purging need to be done, just only before you close the bottle?

and what is the purpose of a bottle heater? you gotta warm it up first or something?

lol so many questions, sorry

v8sten

iTrader: (1)

curious still what you meant about "a way to shuff off the system before shifting".

- That is what a window switch does (window, meaning in between 2 preset rpm ranges). Since our cars close the throttle just before the shift, you do not want it to continue to spray nitrous while that happens, so you set the window switch to shut the nitrous system off just before the shift.

also, what happens if you forget to purge for some reason?

- Depending on how much air is in the system, it can make the motor go extremely fat (too much fuel, not enough air) and stumble for a split second until the air passes in the nitrous line

when does purging need to be done, just only before you close the bottle?

- Before you make a pass and when you are done for the night and shut everything off. You do not want pressure constantly pressing against the solenoids, it can cause the nitrous solenoid to fail by damaging it over night by keeping pressure on it.

and what is the purpose of a bottle heater?

In a pressurized container the more heat you have the more pressure you have. From years of spraying I have ahad the best luck around 950psi. When you spray a metric butt load of nitrous you can adjust bottle pressure to current track conditions, less pressure the softer the "hit" more pressure the harder the "hit"

you gotta warm it up first or something?

Yes

lol so many questions, sorry

Its ok, gotta learn somehow

SPRAY ALL THE NITROUS'S

KOKISF

Yup thats about it

rselby

So you have nitrous and headers too?...im assuming that ( sikky ) in your signature is headers?, I thought N02 and headers didn't work well together, can anyone shed some light on this?

v8sten

iTrader: (1)

IDK where you get your info from but who ever or where ever you get it from, stop listening to it / them. on a nitrous motor the more efficient you can get the exhaust gasses out the more power you will make