'08 ISF 2nd gear slip on cold start
07-20-14, 09:20 AM
#17
Lexus Champion
I ways assumed it was the car intentionally retarding the shifts, maybe until the transmission fluid can lather everything up and is warm. The same thing actually happens in my '13 GS.
07-20-14, 03:44 PM
#18
Tech Info Resource
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Hmm, I've taken it to lexus and they've checked it out under warranty and said that there aren't any problems that they've seen. The service adviser said that he went on a ride a long with the tech, and plugged in their laptap and said everything was working fine, and that the solenoids were working properly. They even tried recreating the scenario described by OP. They didn't mention anything about fluids when they finished their test, but I believe the dealership says that they check fluids as part of the multipoint inspection whenever you bring your car in, so I assume that they've checked this.
What specifically (in terms of low fluid levels) do you suggest I look for, or tell the dealer to look for? I might just bring it into a few other dealers and have them check it out. I'm still under warranty so I want to get this **** sorted out before it's too late.
What specifically (in terms of low fluid levels) do you suggest I look for, or tell the dealer to look for? I might just bring it into a few other dealers and have them check it out. I'm still under warranty so I want to get this **** sorted out before it's too late.
Everything might work correctly on Techstream, but there are a few conditions you can produce pretty consistently to prove the level is low. The best one is a right hand sweeping turn from a dead stop to 45 mph. If the level is low, it will stick in 2nd gear at 5000 rpm. AMHIK. Demo that, then have them adjust the level and you should not have the issues you've been having.
There is no way in the world for Techstream to tell you if the fluid level is correct.
07-23-14, 02:46 PM
#20
Lexus Fanatic
I have not noticed exactly what is being described by the OP but I do have the cold flare in my 2010 but it all feels normal as soon as the car is warm. Because the ISF has a performance engine I tend to start my car first in the morning ( runs for about 4-5 min ), then let my dogs out to pee, then I leave. This way the girl is always warm when I take off.
07-23-14, 06:39 PM
#21
Tech Info Resource
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I have not noticed exactly what is being described by the OP but I do have the cold flare in my 2010 but it all feels normal as soon as the car is warm. Because the ISF has a performance engine I tend to start my car first in the morning ( runs for about 4-5 min ), then let my dogs out to pee, then I leave. This way the girl is always warm when I take off.
This doesn't mean start it and red line it while the oil is cold. It just means the best way to warm an engine is driving it, not letting it sit and idle.
07-23-14, 08:16 PM
#22
Lexus Fanatic
thanks for the heads up. The amount of time is minimal. 90% of the time they go outside in the morning because I wont give them treats unless they try to pee. My wife lets them out in the morning before I even get up so when they go out with me they step outside and scratch to come back in LMAO
. They know the routine
. Thanks again for the heads up Lobux. I value your info , knowledge, and experience highly.
. They know the routine. Thanks again for the heads up Lobux. I value your info , knowledge, and experience highly.
07-23-14, 09:48 PM
#23
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That's one of the worst things you can do to your engine. It needs no more than 60 seconds before you put a load on it, and if you fail to put a load on it, you get heavy condensation inside the engine because you're not moving enough fresh air through the PCV system.
This doesn't mean start it and red line it while the oil is cold. It just means the best way to warm an engine is driving it, not letting it sit and idle.
This doesn't mean start it and red line it while the oil is cold. It just means the best way to warm an engine is driving it, not letting it sit and idle.
or does the idle time on start up increase with temperature change?
07-23-14, 10:06 PM
#24
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Idling is bad for engines period. This is why you'll see your engine race up to 1500 rpm immediately after start up. If your ambient temperature is sub-zero, the same rules apply - the engine warms up best under light load. You just aren't as concerned about humidity condensing inside the engine because as the temperature drops, the humidity approaches zero rapidly.
07-24-14, 06:32 AM
#25
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So i noticed the F , on cold start, shoots up to like 1500 rpm like you said . stays there for about 15-20 seconds and goes back down.
so once it idles back at normal, does that mean we can start going?
so once it idles back at normal, does that mean we can start going?
07-24-14, 07:24 AM
#26
07-26-14, 08:20 AM
#30
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At idle speed, the temperatures do not come up quickly, the cam chains are taking the worst beating of their lives, and the condensate is quickly forming on top of the oil. If you get moving and put a small load on the engine, you can avoid all these things.