IS F (2008-2014) Discussion topics related to the IS F model

IS F Rotors and Pads

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Old 09-27-14, 10:05 PM
  #46  
v8sten
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I put ceramic brake pads on mine all 4 corners for around $65, didnt replace the rotors though.

NO BRAKE DUST ANYMORE!!!! and not as harsh as the Brembo pads.
Old 09-27-14, 10:36 PM
  #47  
srt4evah
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I don't know if Bendix makes all Brembo rotors for Brembo, but when I had a 2006 Dodge Charger SRT-8 with OEM Brembo brakes I used to buy the Bendix rotors and pads, because at least on that model Bendix was the supplier for Brembo. Cost was about 25% as much as the Brembo branded parts from the dealer, and they were the exact same items.
Old 09-28-14, 11:34 AM
  #48  
2ndGF
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Originally Posted by lowrideraz
^^^^Did you bed in your new brakes? You should feel the improvements immediately after the bed in procedure.

Lou
I'm still currently in the bed in process. Taking it from about 60 to 30 smoothly and letting the rotors cool for about a 1/2 mile or so. I think Brembo suggests doing it about 30 times or so. Also, no heavy braking, I'm figuring it shout take a couple hundred miles before I'm bedded in properly; however, the braking does feel improved today over yesterday. Everything is starting to settle in.
Old 09-28-14, 11:47 AM
  #49  
lobuxracer
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Originally Posted by 2ndGF
I'm still currently in the bed in process. Taking it from about 60 to 30 smoothly and letting the rotors cool for about a 1/2 mile or so. I think Brembo suggests doing it about 30 times or so. Also, no heavy braking, I'm figuring it shout take a couple hundred miles before I'm bedded in properly; however, the braking does feel improved today over yesterday. Everything is starting to settle in.
Where did you hear this? It's very bad information, and it isn't bedding the brakes at all. Letting them cool is the antithesis of bedding.

Read this, do this, and you'll be done properly.
Old 09-28-14, 11:55 AM
  #50  
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^^^ got it straight from Brembos website and I trust them.

• Drive vehicle to a remote area and perform at least 30 brake applications of 3 second duration. Use light/ medium deceleration with varying starting speeds. Leave at least ½ mile between each brake application • The purpose of this procedure is to gradually increase the temperature in the components without thermal shock, and to mate the brake pad and disc friction surfaces • After the repeated stops, drive the vehicle for several miles with little or no braking in order to adequately cool the components • The system is now ready for normal use
Old 09-28-14, 02:54 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by lobuxracer
Where did you hear this? It's very bad information, and it isn't bedding the brakes at all. Letting them cool is the antithesis of bedding.

Read this, do this, and you'll be done properly.

For once Lance and I agree 2ndGF you're doing it WRONG. You NEED to transfer material, and not allowing the brakes to heat up just aint gonna do it.

Lou
Old 09-28-14, 03:07 PM
  #52  
2ndGF
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Lol what's done is done and the brakes are fine. I did what the Brembo instructions said. If I did it wrong then blame them.
Old 09-29-14, 04:42 PM
  #53  
lobuxracer
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Originally Posted by 2ndGF
Lol what's done is done and the brakes are fine. I did what the Brembo instructions said. If I did it wrong then blame them.
If you are "still in the process," you didn't do what Brembo said. They said to do it all at once, not spread over a few hundred miles. Besides, there's nothing Brembo in your brakes besides the calipers. Centric rotors and Project Mu pads are broken in just like it says on the Stoptech website.

They won't get better until you do it right. Best of luck. Try reading the thread Lou linked - the guy was complaining about Project Mu pads and did the same thing you did.
Old 09-29-14, 06:50 PM
  #54  
jw669
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I'm due for a pad change and will be going with the Project Mu's.

Question: Rotor currently measures 29.09mm (30mm new, 28mm min). Will resurfacing of the rotor be necessary, or can I just swap the pad in? At this rate, I'd likely be able to go another 20-30k before the rotors hit 28mm

Thanks in advance
Old 09-29-14, 07:40 PM
  #55  
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^^^^Resurfacing a rotor is seldom if ever necessary. If the rotor has gouges, grooves or has an uneven surface it should be replaced. If the rotor is smooth, does not judder when the brakes are applied, and is in spec for thickness, it is fine to reuse. A rotor should last through 2 or 3 pad changes.

Lou
Old 09-29-14, 09:48 PM
  #56  
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Originally Posted by lowrideraz
^^^^Resurfacing a rotor is seldom if ever necessary. If the rotor has gouges, grooves or has an uneven surface it should be replaced. If the rotor is smooth, does not judder when the brakes are applied, and is in spec for thickness, it is fine to reuse. A rotor should last through 2 or 3 pad changes.

Lou
You're the man. Thanks Lou.
Old 09-30-14, 08:52 AM
  #57  
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When should we change pads, what mm left on pad?
Old 09-30-14, 09:00 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by ddcruise
When should we change pads, what mm left on pad?
1mm...........
Old 09-30-14, 09:14 AM
  #59  
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^^^^I would change @ the 2mm level. 1mm is a little thin IMHO.

Lou
Old 09-30-14, 04:41 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by ddcruise
When should we change pads, what mm left on pad?
Depends on how thick the rotors are. If the rotors are going to be changed at the same time the pads will be changed, run them until it's metal on metal. The only thing you are saving by changing the pads early is the rotor.


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