Help: Reassembling 3 Piece ADV1's
#1
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Help: Reassembling 3 Piece ADV1's
Hey guys I am in the process of reassembling my wheels after having them powder coated... The marks are all gone telling me which pieces of this damn puzzle go where.
The wheels specs are as follows:
20 x 9 F (+34)
20 x 11 R (+52)
Looking at the wheels obviously the larger stepped lip goes to the rear, i'm just not sure which wheel face goes where.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Which measurements would you all seasoned wheel vets need to help me assemble these things?
face depths:
60mm
65mm
disc widths:
3"
3.5"
8.5"
7"
FYI this is a color changing powder coat called "Malbec Illusion". First picture is in indirect lighting, second picture is with my blinds open and direct sunlight beaming on them. They change is unbelievably drastic!
The wheels specs are as follows:
20 x 9 F (+34)
20 x 11 R (+52)
Looking at the wheels obviously the larger stepped lip goes to the rear, i'm just not sure which wheel face goes where.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Which measurements would you all seasoned wheel vets need to help me assemble these things?
face depths:
60mm
65mm
disc widths:
3"
3.5"
8.5"
7"
FYI this is a color changing powder coat called "Malbec Illusion". First picture is in indirect lighting, second picture is with my blinds open and direct sunlight beaming on them. They change is unbelievably drastic!
Last edited by 4everkidd; 06-14-14 at 07:26 PM.
#2
Lexus Fanatic
great looking wheels. They came out great. I have never seen another member do this kind of work on their own. Usually goes to a wheel shop. Worst case there are mobil guys who do this kind of work
#3
Lexus Test Driver
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The width of the barrels will determine front and rear fitment for those sections. The rears will be wider and assumingly have a bigger lip on the outer barrel. Once you get that sorted out lay the dishes in to the wheels and calculate the offset to figure out if everything looks correct. If the valve stem come through the dish then there is only one way to bolt the inner barrel to the dish. Make sure you torque the rims in a cross pattern with a torque wrench.
#6
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The width of the barrels will determine front and rear fitment for those sections. The rears will be wider and assumingly have a bigger lip on the outer barrel. Once you get that sorted out lay the dishes in to the wheels and calculate the offset to figure out if everything looks correct. If the valve stem come through the dish then there is only one way to bolt the inner barrel to the dish. Make sure you torque the rims in a cross pattern with a torque wrench.
thanks for the help gents
#7
Lexus Champion
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Generally when I seal wheels I use RTV black or silicone. put a nice thick bead on the split then use your finger to smooth it out all the way through. I generally mount the wheel on the front with the wheel turned that way I can spin the wheel as I use my finger to smooth the silicone or rtv that way it looks nice and uniform.
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#14
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Here are the steps I took:
1) Clean and assemble wheels, measure offsets and make sure the puzzle was put together properly.
2) Insert the wheel bolts and hand tighten nuts on the rear of the wheel
3) Flip the wheels onto their face and insert wheel allen bolts (screw directly into rim face) hand tighten
4) tape off edges of disc seam
5) clean disc seam
6) lay a continuous bead of black gasket maker (RTV) along the seam
7) smooth with finger
8) Torque all bolts to 23ft-lb in a star shaped pattern with a high quality torque wrench
9) remove tape and smooth with finger kept wet with soapy water
10) allow to set for 24 hrs
11) retape the seams
12) apply another small continuous bead of RTV sealant
13) smooth with finger, once again kept wet with soapy water
14) allow to cure for 24 hours
I'm having the wheels mounted and balanced tonight
1) Clean and assemble wheels, measure offsets and make sure the puzzle was put together properly.
2) Insert the wheel bolts and hand tighten nuts on the rear of the wheel
3) Flip the wheels onto their face and insert wheel allen bolts (screw directly into rim face) hand tighten
4) tape off edges of disc seam
5) clean disc seam
6) lay a continuous bead of black gasket maker (RTV) along the seam
7) smooth with finger
8) Torque all bolts to 23ft-lb in a star shaped pattern with a high quality torque wrench
9) remove tape and smooth with finger kept wet with soapy water
10) allow to set for 24 hrs
11) retape the seams
12) apply another small continuous bead of RTV sealant
13) smooth with finger, once again kept wet with soapy water
14) allow to cure for 24 hours
I'm having the wheels mounted and balanced tonight
Last edited by 4everkidd; 06-17-14 at 07:48 AM.
#15
Pole Position
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Dude I would contact ADV.1. That wheel is NOT safe to drive on. I've had 5 sets of ADV.1 and had them refinished by ADV.1 to keep the warranty intact 3 times when I switch color schemes, etc. You HAVE to use new ADV.1 hardware when you rebuild the wheels. The fasteners stretch when they are installed the first time and cannot be reused as they are then going to be re-stretch beyond their max tension and can snap and cause catastrophic wheel failure.
Also the 23ft/lbs is not an ADV.1 spec for their torque rating either. At the very least contact sean@adv1wheels.com (he has helped me with all of my refinishing) and order some new assembly hardware. It should be like 80-100 bucks. It's a small investment in not killing yourself when the hardware you used snaps in half.
Also the 23ft/lbs is not an ADV.1 spec for their torque rating either. At the very least contact sean@adv1wheels.com (he has helped me with all of my refinishing) and order some new assembly hardware. It should be like 80-100 bucks. It's a small investment in not killing yourself when the hardware you used snaps in half.